Heater hose mod and 28" Slicks
#1
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I've got the 10 bolt out and I'm installing a 9". While I'm waiting for it to arrive I've installed some Competition Engineering Drag shocks and I'm thinking about doing the heater hose mod. The problem is, I don't know if it is a problem with 28" slicks. I have 28x10.5S ET Drags, does anyone see this being a problem?
Also, does anyone have a suggestion on shock settings? I put them on the 50/50 setting for now.
Also, does anyone have a suggestion on shock settings? I put them on the 50/50 setting for now.
#2
11 Second Club
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I ran 28" tall (275/60 15's) with the heater hose mod, but that was with my 10bolt and it fit I will try and find some pics. (I am at a clients location for most of today and their network is locked so I can't get to my site and find pics)
as for the comp eng shock, 50/50 worked best on mine, I started out with the 70/30 and it just liked the 50/50 better, but my understanding all cars are different in this regard so it may take some fine tuning...
as for the comp eng shock, 50/50 worked best on mine, I started out with the 70/30 and it just liked the 50/50 better, but my understanding all cars are different in this regard so it may take some fine tuning...
#3
11 Second Club
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I found some pics here is what mine looked like with the 275/60 15 (29" tall) Drag radials, and the heater hose mod...
http://www.1slowformula.com/images/a_little_low1.jpg
http://www.1slowformula.com/images/d_sdie_draglites.jpg
http://www.1slowformula.com/images/rear_meats.jpg
http://www.1slowformula.com/images/rear_view.jpg
http://www.1slowformula.com/images/rear_view_low.jpg
http://www.1slowformula.com/images/r..._clearance.jpg
http://www.1slowformula.com/images/a_little_low1.jpg
http://www.1slowformula.com/images/d_sdie_draglites.jpg
http://www.1slowformula.com/images/rear_meats.jpg
http://www.1slowformula.com/images/rear_view.jpg
http://www.1slowformula.com/images/rear_view_low.jpg
http://www.1slowformula.com/images/r..._clearance.jpg
#7
TECH Senior Member
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https://ls1tech.com/forums/drag-raci...itch-diet.html
Check my build thread, I run thouse tires. no insolator, and I cut a coil. there some pics and info.
Check my build thread, I run thouse tires. no insolator, and I cut a coil. there some pics and info.
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#10
Race your car!
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On my transam I did roll the upper lip some, but not alot. Honestly I didn't really even have to, just did to be safe.
The bottom got beat in like you dscribed, I did cut a little out on the bottom of the wheel well, transam's come back with a triangle that is close to the tire, I notched that out by the ground effect and just seam sealed it over as it didn't seem to be structural.
I don't have any pictures unfortunately, and now there's so much rubber in there I don't think a pic would show anything anyway
The bottom got beat in like you dscribed, I did cut a little out on the bottom of the wheel well, transam's come back with a triangle that is close to the tire, I notched that out by the ground effect and just seam sealed it over as it didn't seem to be structural.
I don't have any pictures unfortunately, and now there's so much rubber in there I don't think a pic would show anything anyway
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#11
LS1Tech Co-Founder
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I ran CE 3 position shocks on the website project Camaro, and I ran them at 50/50. Car went 1.48 na and 1.38 with nitrous using 28" tires.
The 28's may or may not rub, depends on what rims you run actually.
The 28's may or may not rub, depends on what rims you run actually.
#13
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I don't think I had to roll my fenders, camaro you have less room then a firebird. I might lower the rear a little more and you will have to when you start tucking the tire in the well. I also have wilwool dynalite rear brakes so my rotor hats are thinner then stock rotors. No idea what the stock lenght s60 really is, over a stock 10bolt, or other rearends.
and dont try to use a bat or any getto **** like you thought about
if you do what to roll them
and dont try to use a bat or any getto **** like you thought about
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#14
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I don't think I had to roll my fenders, camaro you have less room then a firebird. I might lower the rear a little more and you will have to when you start tucking the tire in the well. I also have wilwool dynalite rear brakes so my rotor hats are thinner then stock rotors. No idea what the stock lenght s60 really is, over a stock 10bolt, or other rearends.
and dont try to use a bat or any getto **** like you thought about
if you do what to roll them
and dont try to use a bat or any getto **** like you thought about
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#15
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I wouldn't do that. The best "other way" Ive seen was I htink a VW forum they put a section of like 3+ pvc over a metal pipe, and use tire, and the car weight with the jack on the corner to controal the weight.
But just rent one I think its 69TA on here that rents his out. Or check you local forum that were I borrowed the one I used for a night, it was the eastwood and worked great. You have to use a heat gun!
But just rent one I think its 69TA on here that rents his out. Or check you local forum that were I borrowed the one I used for a night, it was the eastwood and worked great. You have to use a heat gun!
#17
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honestly, i dont think you'll have inner fender clearance issues at all. 28 11.5 on a 10 inch prostar fit. it was more wheel well beat down/ bump stop grinding, as well as caliper grinding that needed to be done. this is on both a 10 bolt and a mwc 9", 5/8ths spacer
#19
10 Second Club
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I have the 28x10.5x15S ET drags and they rubbed the lip a little on one side the first time I turned the car with them on. I plan on repainting my car soon and wasn't concerned with the paint cracking so I rolled the lip with a ball peen hammer. If you take your time and just roll a little at a time it works good. You just need to bend a little at a time, moving across the whole lip until it's where you want it. Don't try to bend it as far as you want to go in one spot all at once and you'll be fine. My paint did crack and flake in a couple spots on the inside where it's not noticeable, but the primer is still intact.