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Heater hose mod and 28" Slicks

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Old 06-17-2009, 08:46 AM
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Default Heater hose mod and 28" Slicks

I've got the 10 bolt out and I'm installing a 9". While I'm waiting for it to arrive I've installed some Competition Engineering Drag shocks and I'm thinking about doing the heater hose mod. The problem is, I don't know if it is a problem with 28" slicks. I have 28x10.5S ET Drags, does anyone see this being a problem?

Also, does anyone have a suggestion on shock settings? I put them on the 50/50 setting for now.
Old 06-17-2009, 10:19 AM
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I ran 28" tall (275/60 15's) with the heater hose mod, but that was with my 10bolt and it fit I will try and find some pics. (I am at a clients location for most of today and their network is locked so I can't get to my site and find pics)

as for the comp eng shock, 50/50 worked best on mine, I started out with the 70/30 and it just liked the 50/50 better, but my understanding all cars are different in this regard so it may take some fine tuning...
Old 06-17-2009, 10:48 AM
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I found some pics here is what mine looked like with the 275/60 15 (29" tall) Drag radials, and the heater hose mod...

http://www.1slowformula.com/images/a_little_low1.jpg

http://www.1slowformula.com/images/d_sdie_draglites.jpg

http://www.1slowformula.com/images/rear_meats.jpg

http://www.1slowformula.com/images/rear_view.jpg

http://www.1slowformula.com/images/rear_view_low.jpg

http://www.1slowformula.com/images/r..._clearance.jpg
Old 06-17-2009, 11:11 AM
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My concern is the fender, inside and outside. Thanks for the pics btw
Old 06-17-2009, 11:20 AM
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I run the 28x10.5s tire with the heater hose mod and it's fine. I actually ground the surface of the springs where they sit on the rear and the body to get them to stop creaking/making noise and that took another 1/4 inch off the springs... no problems.
Old 06-17-2009, 11:22 AM
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Originally Posted by JL ws-6
I run the 28x10.5s tire with the heater hose mod and it's fine. I actually ground the surface of the springs where they sit on the rear and the body to get them to stop creaking/making noise and that took another 1/4 inch off the springs... no problems.
Good to know. Did you have to do anything special to get them to fit in the first place? I BFH'ed to the frame rail on the inner fender, but not up top any. I'm assuming the lip of the fender has to trimmed
Old 06-17-2009, 12:07 PM
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https://ls1tech.com/forums/drag-raci...itch-diet.html

Check my build thread, I run thouse tires. no insolator, and I cut a coil. there some pics and info.
Old 06-17-2009, 12:20 PM
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I don't have a fender roller. Is there anything else that I can use to take its spot? I do have a heat gun though.
Old 06-17-2009, 12:35 PM
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mine fit, but I have a t/a
Old 06-17-2009, 04:39 PM
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On my transam I did roll the upper lip some, but not alot. Honestly I didn't really even have to, just did to be safe.

The bottom got beat in like you dscribed, I did cut a little out on the bottom of the wheel well, transam's come back with a triangle that is close to the tire, I notched that out by the ground effect and just seam sealed it over as it didn't seem to be structural.

I don't have any pictures unfortunately, and now there's so much rubber in there I don't think a pic would show anything anyway
Old 06-17-2009, 05:07 PM
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I ran CE 3 position shocks on the website project Camaro, and I ran them at 50/50. Car went 1.48 na and 1.38 with nitrous using 28" tires.

The 28's may or may not rub, depends on what rims you run actually.
Old 06-17-2009, 05:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Pro Stock John
I ran CE 3 position shocks on the website project Camaro, and I ran them at 50/50. Car went 1.48 na and 1.38 with nitrous using 28" tires.

The 28's may or may not rub, depends on what rims you run actually.
I guess I'll try them out on the 50/50 setting. I'm using draglites btw
Old 06-17-2009, 05:41 PM
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I don't think I had to roll my fenders, camaro you have less room then a firebird. I might lower the rear a little more and you will have to when you start tucking the tire in the well. I also have wilwool dynalite rear brakes so my rotor hats are thinner then stock rotors. No idea what the stock lenght s60 really is, over a stock 10bolt, or other rearends.


and dont try to use a bat or any getto **** like you thought about if you do what to roll them
Old 06-17-2009, 05:47 PM
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Originally Posted by studderin
I don't think I had to roll my fenders, camaro you have less room then a firebird. I might lower the rear a little more and you will have to when you start tucking the tire in the well. I also have wilwool dynalite rear brakes so my rotor hats are thinner then stock rotors. No idea what the stock lenght s60 really is, over a stock 10bolt, or other rearends.


and dont try to use a bat or any getto **** like you thought about if you do what to roll them
Not quite what I was thinking. I was thinking of a small socket, heat gun, and a rubber mallet.
Old 06-17-2009, 06:37 PM
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I wouldn't do that. The best "other way" Ive seen was I htink a VW forum they put a section of like 3+ pvc over a metal pipe, and use tire, and the car weight with the jack on the corner to controal the weight.

But just rent one I think its 69TA on here that rents his out. Or check you local forum that were I borrowed the one I used for a night, it was the eastwood and worked great. You have to use a heat gun!
Old 06-19-2009, 11:55 AM
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Hammer and dolly!!!!
Old 06-22-2009, 02:12 AM
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honestly, i dont think you'll have inner fender clearance issues at all. 28 11.5 on a 10 inch prostar fit. it was more wheel well beat down/ bump stop grinding, as well as caliper grinding that needed to be done. this is on both a 10 bolt and a mwc 9", 5/8ths spacer
Old 06-22-2009, 06:17 AM
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see sig for 28x12.50 et street with bmr rear springs and heater hose mod and 9" rear
Old 06-22-2009, 08:44 AM
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I have the 28x10.5x15S ET drags and they rubbed the lip a little on one side the first time I turned the car with them on. I plan on repainting my car soon and wasn't concerned with the paint cracking so I rolled the lip with a ball peen hammer. If you take your time and just roll a little at a time it works good. You just need to bend a little at a time, moving across the whole lip until it's where you want it. Don't try to bend it as far as you want to go in one spot all at once and you'll be fine. My paint did crack and flake in a couple spots on the inside where it's not noticeable, but the primer is still intact.
Old 06-22-2009, 09:33 AM
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15x10/7.5 Draglites sit in more than 15x9.75 Bogarts, so you might rub the upper corner of the inner fender (the spot where the metal would be under the back seat).



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