The Rookie vs. the 25.5 project.
#61
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It will be just for fun. I'm already making the billet brackets to hold two 10lb bottlets on the rear bars that go through the back of the car... I ran a lot of nitrous back in the day so it's hard to get away from it.
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having wheelie bars on a newly built car is never a bad idea... you can take them off after the car is lined out... save you lots of money in oil pans and headers especially if its gonna set low.
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Yes, hard to get away from teh giggle gas once you use it.
I got your message, and passed it on, and will probaly hear back from him this afternoon on it. Not sure why he wouldn't.
Thanks again!
#64
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I'm sure you are right, but I'd like to see if I can get it to work without them. And some classes won't let you run wheelie bars... I'm not sure about the LSX Shootout, I'll have to check.
#65
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The car belongs to a Pro Football player... He's pretty well known. I don't want to name him without his permission but when it's finished I'll ask him if I can. He's a super nice guy and he probably won't mind... But I have to check first.
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Sorry I missed this question earlier. That buggy behind the car is pulled apart right now. (the back half) I'm in the process of building a engine for it so it's not worth showing. But when it's finished, I'll take a pic and stuff it in here somewhere... You won't freakin' believe what's going in this thing.
The car belongs to a Pro Football player... He's pretty well known. I don't want to name him without his permission but when it's finished I'll ask him if I can. He's a super nice guy and he probably won't mind... But I have to check first.
The car belongs to a Pro Football player... He's pretty well known. I don't want to name him without his permission but when it's finished I'll ask him if I can. He's a super nice guy and he probably won't mind... But I have to check first.
#70
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Thanks!!! That means a lot coming from a guy that does it for a living! And maybe you can help me out a little. Two times I'd heard I should adjust for "315" are they talking about tires size? The shoot-out rules says 295 max... Is that going to change? Also, I've been told build it to 25.3 specs... I can't find anything about that. Should I wait till that comes out? Is it going to be mandatory for the LSX shootout????...
#71
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yea the 315 is a 315/60. Its the same width as what you have now but its a 30" tall tire so its about 2" taller then the 325.
Even if you never run that tire, I would still build the car to fit it for resale value. As rules change through the years, the 315 might be allowed in your class.
The 25.3 spec is pretty much a result of the real fast and heavy drag radial cars. It was suppose to be out last January. I've heard its suppose to be out soon though. For what your doing, I would aim for the 25.3 spec. I would build it no less then 25.2 and just hope the 25.3 is easily adaptable. Kinda sucks but its all you can do until they release the spec.
the diagonal in your roof will need to be an "x" now and it must be 1.125 tubing. Theres a bunch of little 1" tubing braces. the x in the door needs to be 1.625 and 1.500 on both sides of the car. Pick up a copy of the 25.2 spec and im sure you'll have no problem figuring it out.
Even if you never run that tire, I would still build the car to fit it for resale value. As rules change through the years, the 315 might be allowed in your class.
The 25.3 spec is pretty much a result of the real fast and heavy drag radial cars. It was suppose to be out last January. I've heard its suppose to be out soon though. For what your doing, I would aim for the 25.3 spec. I would build it no less then 25.2 and just hope the 25.3 is easily adaptable. Kinda sucks but its all you can do until they release the spec.
the diagonal in your roof will need to be an "x" now and it must be 1.125 tubing. Theres a bunch of little 1" tubing braces. the x in the door needs to be 1.625 and 1.500 on both sides of the car. Pick up a copy of the 25.2 spec and im sure you'll have no problem figuring it out.
#73
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yea the 315 is a 315/60. Its the same width as what you have now but its a 30" tall tire so its about 2" taller then the 325.
Even if you never run that tire, I would still build the car to fit it for resale value. As rules change through the years, the 315 might be allowed in your class.
The 25.3 spec is pretty much a result of the real fast and heavy drag radial cars. It was suppose to be out last January. I've heard its suppose to be out soon though. For what your doing, I would aim for the 25.3 spec. I would build it no less then 25.2 and just hope the 25.3 is easily adaptable. Kinda sucks but its all you can do until they release the spec.
the diagonal in your roof will need to be an "x" now and it must be 1.125 tubing. Theres a bunch of little 1" tubing braces. the x in the door needs to be 1.625 and 1.500 on both sides of the car. Pick up a copy of the 25.2 spec and im sure you'll have no problem figuring it out.
Even if you never run that tire, I would still build the car to fit it for resale value. As rules change through the years, the 315 might be allowed in your class.
The 25.3 spec is pretty much a result of the real fast and heavy drag radial cars. It was suppose to be out last January. I've heard its suppose to be out soon though. For what your doing, I would aim for the 25.3 spec. I would build it no less then 25.2 and just hope the 25.3 is easily adaptable. Kinda sucks but its all you can do until they release the spec.
the diagonal in your roof will need to be an "x" now and it must be 1.125 tubing. Theres a bunch of little 1" tubing braces. the x in the door needs to be 1.625 and 1.500 on both sides of the car. Pick up a copy of the 25.2 spec and im sure you'll have no problem figuring it out.
I have another 1999 Camaro that I might just make it the 25.3 car and keep this one a 25.5 car... I planned on building two cars so I might just do that. (One local car and one shoot-out car) I can use the set-up motor in both and then leave it in the 25.5 car for local racing. It's just a though but it sounds like a good idea. Thanks for all the information and heads-up... It does effect what I want to do with one of these cars.
#74
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Yep... I would be bored with just the 600 HP. And I know I'd HATE getting my *** kicked every time I took it out, even while setting up the car. If it doesn't hook, or go straight, I can say: "Hey! Give me a break, I'm new at this stuff!" But if it's a complete turd on power, even the set-up engine... that's not gonna look good for my engine business. It doesn't have to be a record breaker now or ever for that matter. BUT it's gotta put on a show worthy of what the car is built for... I hope that makes sense.
#75
Your work looks great! Most of the chassis I build are to the 25.2. spec. Even when I build a 25.5, or regular sportman cage I usually upsize certain bars so they will meet the 25.2 spec if the customer ever decides to upgrade the car to run faster. All the gussest in the corners I use 1". Floor diagonals 1 1/4", Dash bar 1 5/8.(less gussets required for 25.2).
Don't sweat the 25.3, SFI is about the slowest there is at getting new stuff out.
Don't sweat the 25.3, SFI is about the slowest there is at getting new stuff out.
#76
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Well, I got a couple more bars mocked up today. The front floor that goes cross to the drivers side inner bar and the "butt bar" for the drivers seat. That was pretty much a pain in the **** because I want everything tucked up against the underside of the floor pan. I don't want anything lower the Wolf sub frame connectors. But when it's done, the floor pan will be stitch welded to the bars and I'll have a good locations points for the removable tranny cross bar. BTW, check out the tranny. That thing is just hanging there by the mid plate and nothing else. The front motor plate is not attached to the frame. When I removed the tranny mount I had in there to located and align everything, the tail housing of the tranny did not drop at all... I mean NADA! I even tempted fate by grabbing onto it and wiggle it... Again, NADA... Solid as a rock! I'm very pleased on how that worked out.
I also installed the fenders and nose piece to figure out some kinda bumper support. I've been looking at the Burkhart unit but I just can't tell from the picks it will do all the tings I want it to do... The jury is still out on that project.
I also installed the fenders and nose piece to figure out some kinda bumper support. I've been looking at the Burkhart unit but I just can't tell from the picks it will do all the tings I want it to do... The jury is still out on that project.
#77
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Why run the WOLFE SFC's if you are going 25.2? You would think that now it would just be extra weight???
If you know anyone wanting some BBC stuff there is a local with some nice stuff (he gets on here every now and then. he now runs an all aluminum 565.
Big Block Chevy - Merlin Cast Iron Block - 4.5 Bore - Deck Squared - Line Honed - Billet Gear Timing Chain & Cover - 40 Passes Since New - ReHone and Use.
$1,800.00
Big Block Chevy - Jeff Johnson's Billet Fabrication Aluminum Oil Pan - Billet Rail - Trap Door - Windage Screen - Olds DRCE Pattern (Pro Stock) - Fits Merlin Blocks - Fits stock Chassis Nova, Camaro, Chevelle, etc.. 6-7 Quart
$250.00
Big Block Chevy - Wisco 540 Pistons - 4.5 Bore 4.25 stroke for +.400 Long Rod - Tapered Wall Pins - 14.5 Comp - Top Ring Moved Down For N2O (Works fine N/A) - 40 Passes Like New
$300.00
All 3 Together $2,200.00
-------------------
Big Block Chevy - Crower Severe Duty Roller Lifters - 40 Passes - Part#66291
$200.00
--------------------
OR BEST OFFERS
__________________
If you know anyone wanting some BBC stuff there is a local with some nice stuff (he gets on here every now and then. he now runs an all aluminum 565.
Big Block Chevy - Merlin Cast Iron Block - 4.5 Bore - Deck Squared - Line Honed - Billet Gear Timing Chain & Cover - 40 Passes Since New - ReHone and Use.
$1,800.00
Big Block Chevy - Jeff Johnson's Billet Fabrication Aluminum Oil Pan - Billet Rail - Trap Door - Windage Screen - Olds DRCE Pattern (Pro Stock) - Fits Merlin Blocks - Fits stock Chassis Nova, Camaro, Chevelle, etc.. 6-7 Quart
$250.00
Big Block Chevy - Wisco 540 Pistons - 4.5 Bore 4.25 stroke for +.400 Long Rod - Tapered Wall Pins - 14.5 Comp - Top Ring Moved Down For N2O (Works fine N/A) - 40 Passes Like New
$300.00
All 3 Together $2,200.00
-------------------
Big Block Chevy - Crower Severe Duty Roller Lifters - 40 Passes - Part#66291
$200.00
--------------------
OR BEST OFFERS
__________________
#78
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Why run the WOLFE SFC's if you are going 25.2? You would think that now it would just be extra weight???
If you know anyone wanting some BBC stuff there is a local with some nice stuff (he gets on here every now and then. he now runs an all aluminum 565.
Big Block Chevy - Merlin Cast Iron Block - 4.5 Bore - Deck Squared - Line Honed - Billet Gear Timing Chain & Cover - 40 Passes Since New - ReHone and Use.
$1,800.00
Big Block Chevy - Jeff Johnson's Billet Fabrication Aluminum Oil Pan - Billet Rail - Trap Door - Windage Screen - Olds DRCE Pattern (Pro Stock) - Fits Merlin Blocks - Fits stock Chassis Nova, Camaro, Chevelle, etc.. 6-7 Quart
$250.00
Big Block Chevy - Wisco 540 Pistons - 4.5 Bore 4.25 stroke for +.400 Long Rod - Tapered Wall Pins - 14.5 Comp - Top Ring Moved Down For N2O (Works fine N/A) - 40 Passes Like New
$300.00
All 3 Together $2,200.00
-------------------
Big Block Chevy - Crower Severe Duty Roller Lifters - 40 Passes - Part#66291
$200.00
--------------------
OR BEST OFFERS
__________________
If you know anyone wanting some BBC stuff there is a local with some nice stuff (he gets on here every now and then. he now runs an all aluminum 565.
Big Block Chevy - Merlin Cast Iron Block - 4.5 Bore - Deck Squared - Line Honed - Billet Gear Timing Chain & Cover - 40 Passes Since New - ReHone and Use.
$1,800.00
Big Block Chevy - Jeff Johnson's Billet Fabrication Aluminum Oil Pan - Billet Rail - Trap Door - Windage Screen - Olds DRCE Pattern (Pro Stock) - Fits Merlin Blocks - Fits stock Chassis Nova, Camaro, Chevelle, etc.. 6-7 Quart
$250.00
Big Block Chevy - Wisco 540 Pistons - 4.5 Bore 4.25 stroke for +.400 Long Rod - Tapered Wall Pins - 14.5 Comp - Top Ring Moved Down For N2O (Works fine N/A) - 40 Passes Like New
$300.00
All 3 Together $2,200.00
-------------------
Big Block Chevy - Crower Severe Duty Roller Lifters - 40 Passes - Part#66291
$200.00
--------------------
OR BEST OFFERS
__________________
Well, I wasn't building a 25.2 car... I just got carried away and headed in that direction. Now that I know there's a 25.3 spec coming out I'm going to finish this car up at the 25.5 spec and build the other car to the 25.3 spec. And I mentioned earlier in this thread that I wish I hadn't put in the sub-frame connectors in there. Just a typical rookie mistake on my part. And originally, this car was just to learn on and turn it into a local race club car. (And that's what it will probably be when it's all said and done) The other Camaro I have was going to be the real deal. But once I got started on this one, and I hadn't screwed it up, I thought what the hell... Keep going and see what happens. I guess when it's all said and done it will be either a over built 25.5 car or a under built 25.2 car... So I'm going to call it a 25.4 car.
As far as the big block stuff goes... I have no need for it. I only build LS series engines.
#79
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Well, I wasn't building a 25.2 car... I just got carried away and headed in that direction. Now that I know there's a 25.3 spec coming out I'm going to finish this car up at the 25.5 spec and build the other car to the 25.3 spec. And I mentioned earlier in this thread that I wish I hadn't put in the sub-frame connectors in there. Just a typical rookie mistake on my part. And originally, this car was just to learn on and turn it into a local race club car. (And that's what it will probably be when it's all said and done) The other Camaro I have was going to be the real deal. But once I got started on this one, and I hadn't screwed it up, I thought what the hell... Keep going and see what happens. I guess when it's all said and done it will be either a over built 25.5 car or a under built 25.2 car... So I'm going to call it a 25.4 car.
As far as the big block stuff goes... I have no need for it. I only build LS series engines.
As far as the big block stuff goes... I have no need for it. I only build LS series engines.
The only thing I really don't like about the 25.5 stuff is the re-sale value... granted a CM 25.5 is A LOT better then a MS but it seems like more and more people are going with 25.2's because they are more desirable to others if they decide to sell.
I have learned to never buy or build something that will not be a huge pain to sell because even if I plan to never get rid of it the economey and proven otherwise to me haha.
You should ask the NHRA inspector when he goes to certify it if he could certify it to 25.4 and explain what it is and look at his reaction