Need help with my a single digit N/A setup.
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From: Thomasboro, ILL
Need help with my a single digit N/A setup. Due to a fitting breaking off in my transmission, my race season has come to a end. For next year I found a doner LS2 block so i will be stepping up the cubes from my LS1 to a 408. I would really like to build this motor in "attempt" to run a 9.9x on strictly motor. I will be keeping my vic jr intake setup, and thats all i know of for sure motor wise. My specs are
2900 pounds dry/3050 race weight
Rossler 4L60E w/brake
12 bolt with 3.90 gear built by burkheart
all tubular rod ended suspension
car will be running pump gas
rear tires are 275/60
currently running a yank4000 stall, but want to change to a circle d.
So what kind of long block setup should i go with? I have some ideas in mind, but need some direction before starting this project. Crank, pistons, cam, heads, compression, stall, RPM's, give me whatever you can.
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2900 pounds dry/3050 race weight
Rossler 4L60E w/brake
12 bolt with 3.90 gear built by burkheart
all tubular rod ended suspension
car will be running pump gas
rear tires are 275/60
currently running a yank4000 stall, but want to change to a circle d.
So what kind of long block setup should i go with? I have some ideas in mind, but need some direction before starting this project. Crank, pistons, cam, heads, compression, stall, RPM's, give me whatever you can.
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Thread Starter
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From: Thomasboro, ILL
A/C, Bumper supports, fiberglass hood, drag brakes, door bars, carpet padding, kirkey seats, alot of useless metal, drag brakes, alot.....
Still have stereo, stock steering wheel w/ radio controls
, no lexan, 6 point chromoly,
I could probably cut more weight off, but she is light enough, and hooks dead every pass, perfectly straight. This winter i think she will get a lexan rear window, and maybe a few other small things.
Still have stereo, stock steering wheel w/ radio controls
, no lexan, 6 point chromoly, I could probably cut more weight off, but she is light enough, and hooks dead every pass, perfectly straight. This winter i think she will get a lexan rear window, and maybe a few other small things.
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From: Thomasboro, ILL
Lets see here, front fender metal, frame horns, metal around the rear end in the fender wells, minimini tubs i guess, rear seat mounts, a few other small things.
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I'd look at going bigger then a 408 if you want to run pump gas, but ti's possible to do.
Ditch that POS 4Ljunkie too, it's not gonna hold up to 9 second power for very long, either that or plan on having that thing out at least twice a season.
Do that, and you will have an easy time with a car as light as yours is. Or, just plan to run race fuel, and in that case you can do it with less then 400 CI. N/a cars make power with rpm, CI, compression and alot of camshaft and timing. Compression, timing and alot of camshaft probably the 3 most important ones, bigger and more rpm just make it easier.
Ditch that POS 4Ljunkie too, it's not gonna hold up to 9 second power for very long, either that or plan on having that thing out at least twice a season.
Do that, and you will have an easy time with a car as light as yours is. Or, just plan to run race fuel, and in that case you can do it with less then 400 CI. N/a cars make power with rpm, CI, compression and alot of camshaft and timing. Compression, timing and alot of camshaft probably the 3 most important ones, bigger and more rpm just make it easier.
honestly... at that weight, a H/C setup will get you into the 9.9 range...
I went 10.32 @ 3300 lbs with a H/C If you are 400lbs ligher than I am, there is the 9.9 pass right there...
I think a well built 408 that will get you to 520 or 530 HP will net a solid 9.70 run at that race weight in good air.
I went 10.32 @ 3300 lbs with a H/C If you are 400lbs ligher than I am, there is the 9.9 pass right there...
I think a well built 408 that will get you to 520 or 530 HP will net a solid 9.70 run at that race weight in good air.
If your going to stay NA you could run a 4.1 in crank in that LS2 and pick up a few more cubes for the same price. Also I would think the more compression you run the better. If its a dedicated drag car I guess race fuel wouldnt be a problem, but if you plan on street driving I guess stick with the pump gas.
But a 418 with some trickflow 235's milled to give about 11.5:1, a big custom cam, pistons with big enough valce reliefs (or just get them custom flycut), and a good rotating assembly with good rob bolts.
Setup right with a max effort tune that should put you in the 9's at your weight pretty easy.
But a 418 with some trickflow 235's milled to give about 11.5:1, a big custom cam, pistons with big enough valce reliefs (or just get them custom flycut), and a good rotating assembly with good rob bolts.
Setup right with a max effort tune that should put you in the 9's at your weight pretty easy.
honestly... at that weight, a H/C setup will get you into the 9.9 range...
I went 10.32 @ 3300 lbs with a H/C If you are 400lbs ligher than I am, there is the 9.9 pass right there...
I think a well built 408 that will get you to 520 or 530 HP will net a solid 9.70 run at that race weight in good air.
I went 10.32 @ 3300 lbs with a H/C If you are 400lbs ligher than I am, there is the 9.9 pass right there...
I think a well built 408 that will get you to 520 or 530 HP will net a solid 9.70 run at that race weight in good air.
Build as big as the wallet will allow, so it will run the # when it's 110 degrees out and the track is ****.
But maybe the wallet will only allow a stock rotating assembly and Heads/Cam
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I plan to run at least a 408, and it must be a pump gas motor. my co-workers father is a really reputable engine builder, and he said he would be more than happy to build me a high reving stroked LS motor, so the machinist bill will be near zero. He can also port heads, flycut, whatever else needs to be done. I would like to get away using some L92 heads, just because they are cheap. Can I make them flow as good as anything else if done right?
You can get away with the L92's, but there's other options out there that are alot better.
Honestly, if the machine shop bill will be near zero, I'd be spending the $ to go solid roller, put a PI intake on it too so it can breathe up to 7800 or so (limited by the wet sump) and spend teh $ on a good tranny.... that way you can realyl spin it higher and run something like a 4.56 gear or so (with a TH400) in it to make use of the rpm, you're potential with that type of setup is well bast the 9.99 barrier.
Then comes the fun stuff, chassis cert, lic runs, firesuit, etc.etc.
Honestly, if the machine shop bill will be near zero, I'd be spending the $ to go solid roller, put a PI intake on it too so it can breathe up to 7800 or so (limited by the wet sump) and spend teh $ on a good tranny.... that way you can realyl spin it higher and run something like a 4.56 gear or so (with a TH400) in it to make use of the rpm, you're potential with that type of setup is well bast the 9.99 barrier.
Then comes the fun stuff, chassis cert, lic runs, firesuit, etc.etc.
Thread Starter
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iTrader: (31)
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From: Thomasboro, ILL
You can get away with the L92's, but there's other options out there that are alot better.
Honestly, if the machine shop bill will be near zero, I'd be spending the $ to go solid roller, put a PI intake on it too so it can breathe up to 7800 or so (limited by the wet sump) and spend teh $ on a good tranny.... that way you can realyl spin it higher and run something like a 4.56 gear or so (with a TH400) in it to make use of the rpm, you're potential with that type of setup is well bast the 9.99 barrier.
Then comes the fun stuff, chassis cert, lic runs, firesuit, etc.etc.
Honestly, if the machine shop bill will be near zero, I'd be spending the $ to go solid roller, put a PI intake on it too so it can breathe up to 7800 or so (limited by the wet sump) and spend teh $ on a good tranny.... that way you can realyl spin it higher and run something like a 4.56 gear or so (with a TH400) in it to make use of the rpm, you're potential with that type of setup is well bast the 9.99 barrier.
Then comes the fun stuff, chassis cert, lic runs, firesuit, etc.etc.
My intake will be upgraded from my vic jr, to a super victor. plan on keeping the holley 90mm TB.
Right know im stuck between what block to start with
I thought i had a hell of a deal on a LS2 but the guy hasnt gotten back to me about it. I have a few buddys who work at the local GM dealership, and where gonna ask them about getting me a price on a new LS3 block. Still undecided though. 
The "built" 4L60 with every upgrade wont be a problem at all. As long as taking out 2-3 times a year is not a problem. No matter who builds them, they are weak. High rpm and 1.2x- 1.3x 60's will, I repeat WILL, kill it. Trust me.
