Final stage of my stock internal M6 build
11-23-2011, 02:54 PM
#182
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Another question. I'm putting the new poly trans mount on and with the crossmember tight and the trans loose there's a gap between them (about 1/8"). Would it be ok to shim between the trans and mount to get it to touch the crossmember?
11-24-2011, 06:27 AM
#183
Well I finally got a good bit of work done tonight. Replaced the old Tex clutch with a new Monster and pretty much put the rest of the motor back together. All that's left really is to paint the engine bay and get the brakes put on, and get the motor back in.
Here are a few pics of the progress and the new intake I'll be using for the street, can't make the track version till I get the motor in and the bumper back on...
Here are a few pics of the progress and the new intake I'll be using for the street, can't make the track version till I get the motor in and the bumper back on...
edit I have read that solid MM raise the motor.
11-24-2011, 10:47 AM
#185
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you can but it's not rec'ed. solid motor mounts with a poly trans is what i do (alot of racers still use rubber on the trans keeps vibrations off the tailshaft) thats why they don't use soild on trans. use a shim just check the driveline angles, not just pinion, they may change and you'll have more vibration when driving.
11-24-2011, 11:15 AM
#186
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Just thought of something... can you shave back on that mount for the bolt hole? recess the bolt effectively about 3/4"? Good grinder wheel and 10 minutes could fix that for you.
12-04-2011, 10:48 PM
#190
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I tried to make room for the 325's without using the spacers but I've gone about as far as I can go without getting tubs...
The tire is still rubbing on the front bottom of the well near the control arm, so the spacers are back on.
The car is basically done, just have to put the bumper and hood on.
The tire is still rubbing on the front bottom of the well near the control arm, so the spacers are back on.
The car is basically done, just have to put the bumper and hood on.
12-06-2011, 05:00 PM
#193
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Post up when you get some numbers man. I plan on posting up if i can get mine running right.
12-18-2011, 11:46 PM
#196
You see my intake test on a SI motor
https://ls1tech.com/forums/dynamomet...out-gians.html
If you want to ditch the spacers, do what I did. no armrest metal and cut the inner wheel well pinch weld and it hammers back super easy. then weld the seam up, you dont need to do the whole lip like I did, just that corner and up a few inch your gain the room.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/drag-raci...h-diet-25.html
On the atl bolt, if you wnat I cut the front of the bracket off so the bolts moves back a bunch. check that out.
I ran a 8rib belt on my GTP and had some bolts with the head ground down, thouse round easy and your fucked, I wouldn't run that if you can help it. It works but, easy to be a pain.
Last edited by studderin; 12-19-2011 at 12:03 AM.
12-18-2011, 11:55 PM
#197
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Yeah I saw that test... wish I didn't..
The bolt and wells aren't an issue anymore, I've already got the bmr alt bracket on and ordered some mini tubs and a cm 6pt cage from wolf
The bolt and wells aren't an issue anymore, I've already got the bmr alt bracket on and ordered some mini tubs and a cm 6pt cage from wolf
you need more then a 28x10.5? 
