AnnivSS

Now I dont expect everyone to go sharing their secrets, but im a complete newbie to the rwd world. I have the car listed in my sig below. Before the tune (read with torque management enabled) I was cutting consistent 2.0XX 60's on 275/40/17 firestone firehawk wide ovals at the local track (which isnt known for great prep). On the same tires, same track, etc.... with a tune (read as torque management disabled) i cant better a 2.15X. Ive tried tire pressure changes, launching methods, diff lanes, diff days......no result. I suspect its time to invest in some suspension before going power crazy. Whats my first step? The car is completely stock suspension wise as it came from the factory.......106k miles later.

drone

iTrader: (5)

torque arm, lca's, shocks. I cut 1.7's with my 275 tires. and thats giving it half effort. anymore and i spin.

then start getting some bolt-ons. intake and exhaust.

then start looking into a stall/transmission.

AnnivSS

Theres drivetrain plans in the future, built trans and stall to come first. Right now Ijust want to be able to put any future power to the ground.

mad_steve

iTrader: (2)

There's a whole world of suspension parts that will help you put the power to the ground. It would be easiest if you can call me so we can go over your set-up and goals, then talk about parts and prices. We can supply you with everything you need for suspension parts, plus, when you buy parts through us, we offer free tech support from then on out. Our number is 225-673-3533 and you can ask for me.

Twotonefreak

iTrader: (11)

^^^ Def listen to this guy.

BlackScreaminMachine

iTrader: (17)

Your are talking to one of the best in the biz.

As the car being a A4 car, the requirement (read: investment) in parts is less which is good. Compared to a M6 car, thats for sure.

IMO you will need to change the type of tire you run (read: changing compounds), stall converter (read: smaller and higher stall like a 4400 Yank or there abouts). Also a gearing upgrade would not hurt.

This is makeing no more power then you are now and with the basic LCA, TQ arm upgrades and a trans cooler. You could be cutting 1.7's all day which btw is getting near the "redline" of the GM 10 bolt rear so be aware you will need to be mindful of it. You hear a whine, then its tim to fix or upgrade.

AnnivSS

I have a 3.42 geared 10 bolt out of an 02 m6 car laying in teh garage with a bad wheel bearing, its going to get freshened up and put in for now until i can invest in a 12 bolt.

custm2500

iTrader: (11)

Why not start at the friction point and get some real tires on that thing!?! Parts will help but traction will help much much more. Unless you are dead set on running your best times on street tires, get a nice set of cheater slicks and drop your 60 below what it was before. No messing with adjustments, no dialing in the set up. Bolt on and improve. Then as power increases get upgraded parts and keep hitting the tires harder.

This is what I would do but maybe someone can explain any logical reasoning to not take this route!?

AnnivSS

I would like to run street tires but i have been eyeing a set of 275/40/17 et streets. Im not real sure how much abuse the 10 bolt will hold up to on dr's was my only concern.

custm2500

iTrader: (11)

Hooking is hooking. The 10 bolt isn't bullet proof but many people abuse them for quite a wile before hurting them. I personally like to get to the end result the least expensive way without cutting corners. Drag tires certainly isn't cutting corners and like I said before you get a Bias slick and without a doubt will drop your 60. Radials you might improve instantly or you may need to tweak your set up to make them work.

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

A4 and the 10 bolt, with stock power will be o.k. as long as you dont' see any wheelhop, you get any of that going on and it's done for quick.

That being said, listen to steve, madman co. can help you out for sure. lca's, phb, shocks, lca relocation brackets and a tq arm and that's all you need to really get one of these cars to get down. Drag rear swaybar too, which some people can go longer without, but it's never going to hurt. Frame connectors too, right away.

Once you have that stuff done, it's time to turn your attention to the front, rod ended stuff so the suspension moves freely, shocks and a spring change for the front.

Driveline mods for reliabilty (12 bolt or the like, 4l80 if you want the OD, TH350/400 if you don't) and performance, and power. Power with these cars, is actually one of the easiest parts. So many ways to get to whatever level you want, just a matter of taking the $ out of the pocket.

Don't forget the safety stuff... too many people forget about that part!

AnnivSS

Thats why I wanted to start with the suspension and driveline. Ive already done the built engine on stock drivetrain bs with my last car and after putting 3 transmissions and two clutch assemblies in it, im going to take the high road this time.

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

I've done the same, gone the make power first and see what breaks route, and the overbuild it route, overbuild it route netted me a car that never broke a part for 2 years.

The make power first route, broke everything, one step at a time.

custm2500

iTrader: (11)

Sure hope you trailer your car next time to the track. I think you might have screwed yourself with this comment. I sure hope not but we all know how that goes!

AnnivSS

So far the camaros been good to me, my mazda on the other hand made 4 successful passes in the 5 years i owned it.....and those passes were stock.

BlackScreaminMachine

iTrader: (17)

That car has been trailered for years, the last time he took the stock motor and drove to the track had to be back in 2003-2004. JL's thought process is spot on. Over building does not hurt you when it comes to winning races. It essentially ensures that a 2$ part does not ruin your race day.

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

Not a problem... car gets trailered every trip LOL. No street duty anymore at all.

Plus, when I get it back out every part on the car is gonna be brand new, so that being said, it's either gonna blow up/break within the first 3 hits, or run for another good while.

Take your guess at that one LOL. Never know with race stuff.

AnnivSS

I patiently await the day i can lift the front end lol.

custm2500

iTrader: (11)

I figured this was the case being the level your car is at, but I was just making the point of when you stop being concerned something is going to go wrong is when it bites you in the ***.