Deleting cruise/tcs box thing
11-07-2010, 06:13 AM
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Deleting cruise/tcs box thing So im trying to clean up my engine bay a wee bit and since i deleted the ABS with an SJM kit i figure i might as well figure out what it takes to delete the rest of the creature comforts. But i do have a few questions
(ive spent the last hour reading and have found no actual useful threads lol)
1) If i take that ugly *** box off the passanger well do i have to get a new throttle cable anyway?
2) if i delete the box off the fender well but decide i still want to keep the CC can i do that?
should i just leave them as a its more bother than its worth thing? I was in deleting the PCV system a few nights ago and those lines that run to the TCS mdule are just in the ****** way of everything!
(ive spent the last hour reading and have found no actual useful threads lol)
1) If i take that ugly *** box off the passanger well do i have to get a new throttle cable anyway?
2) if i delete the box off the fender well but decide i still want to keep the CC can i do that?
should i just leave them as a its more bother than its worth thing? I was in deleting the PCV system a few nights ago and those lines that run to the TCS mdule are just in the ****** way of everything!
11-07-2010, 09:27 AM
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If you're patient, you can use the throttle cable that goes to the tcs controller. . . you need to cut about 3 1/2 - 4" of the sheathing around the cable out (custom fit to your needs) and find a way to get the bracket to hold that latch/clasp from the tcs controller in the throttle bracket. I've seen a few threads w/the p/n's for the tcs-less/abs-less cables.
good luck either way.
good luck either way.
11-07-2010, 09:32 AM
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I removed the entire mess on mine (cc and tcs) and still need to get a cable from a non cc/tcs car. MUCH cleaner and easier to work on things without them damn cables in the way!
12-04-2010, 01:12 PM
#7
Ive posted the PN and for all the cables, and some service pics of how they run w/ w/o ASR/ CC if you search my name.
I remebed theres diffrent cables for a stock TB is your running it 98-00 was xxxxx59 00-02 is xxxx60
most aftermarket TB have both holes so your set there. I did this with the stock TB still so remember that. there cheap only $20 a cable so just buy new ones. I've worked on cars with the cut down stocks, and they didn't fit great. I think its worth 20 to have a good fitting throttle cable on a 400+whp car
this as the pics
https://ls1tech.com/forums/parts-wan...e-control.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...ighlight=cable
https://ls1tech.com/forums/parts-wan...n-tcs-car.html
also heard of somone moving the CC to behind the PCM, so the cables are not running over the passenger side head, so you can change plugs easier. I can see that being nice if the CC still works good, I assume thats with the AC already gone.
I remebed theres diffrent cables for a stock TB is your running it 98-00 was xxxxx59 00-02 is xxxx60
most aftermarket TB have both holes so your set there. I did this with the stock TB still so remember that. there cheap only $20 a cable so just buy new ones. I've worked on cars with the cut down stocks, and they didn't fit great. I think its worth 20 to have a good fitting throttle cable on a 400+whp car
this as the pics
https://ls1tech.com/forums/parts-wan...e-control.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...ighlight=cable
https://ls1tech.com/forums/parts-wan...n-tcs-car.html
also heard of somone moving the CC to behind the PCM, so the cables are not running over the passenger side head, so you can change plugs easier. I can see that being nice if the CC still works good, I assume thats with the AC already gone.
Last edited by studderin; 12-04-2010 at 01:21 PM.
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12-04-2010, 01:46 PM
#8
Ive posted the PN and for all the cables, and some service pics of how they run w/ w/o ASR/ CC if you search my name.
I remebed theres diffrent cables for a stock TB is your running it 98-00 was xxxxx59 00-02 is xxxx60
most aftermarket TB have both holes so your set there. I did this with the stock TB still so remember that. there cheap only $20 a cable so just buy new ones. I've worked on cars with the cut down stocks, and they didn't fit great. I think its worth 20 to have a good fitting throttle cable on a 400+whp car
this as the pics
https://ls1tech.com/forums/parts-wan...e-control.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...ighlight=cable
https://ls1tech.com/forums/parts-wan...n-tcs-car.html
also heard of somone moving the CC to behind the PCM, so the cables are not running over the passenger side head, so you can change plugs easier. I can see that being nice if the CC still works good, I assume thats with the AC already gone.
I remebed theres diffrent cables for a stock TB is your running it 98-00 was xxxxx59 00-02 is xxxx60
most aftermarket TB have both holes so your set there. I did this with the stock TB still so remember that. there cheap only $20 a cable so just buy new ones. I've worked on cars with the cut down stocks, and they didn't fit great. I think its worth 20 to have a good fitting throttle cable on a 400+whp car
this as the pics
https://ls1tech.com/forums/parts-wan...e-control.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...ighlight=cable
https://ls1tech.com/forums/parts-wan...n-tcs-car.html
also heard of somone moving the CC to behind the PCM, so the cables are not running over the passenger side head, so you can change plugs easier. I can see that being nice if the CC still works good, I assume thats with the AC already gone.
12-11-2010, 05:57 PM
#11
Just relocate it to behind the pcm.. all you have to do is remove the pcm and unbolt the tcs/cc and the wiring harness.. move the tcs/cc to behind the pcm and use a couple zip ties to attach it to the bundle of cables back there. Then just solder and lengthen the wires that the tcs/cc harness plugs into and wala. I ran my lines under the shock tower along with the wire mod. The cables are now behiind the intake tucker up to the cowl and the only way you can see them is if you bend over and look up under the cowl.
12-12-2010, 06:30 PM
#16
I took my ABS under the hood 2 winters ago and its been find with just that big square connector off the ABS box un hooked tucked under the fuse box. (had to take the ABS bulb off the dash) but did nothing to the pcm. I removed that wire off the PCM with about 30 others, and all the ABS wires a few weeks ago. Only have the min to run the motor in the engine harness (PCM pins), Plus the fuel gauge with a few others I can't remember right now. I haven't tested it yet but guys say it should be ok. Thats for sure on of the not 100% clear labled wires you get to when you start removing wires. It's one of many, these cars are weird, their wired still with some really old stuff that you go WTF is that like that. I don't know for sure but I think some of the things have just been yearly upgrades since back when they were LT1 or maybe even TBI cars. I havn;t gotten this car into wiring ever then my car. Or its like one engineer team was doing one thing and another another spot on the car or years different and named a wire or system diffrent, so one spot in the service manual its called One thing, and another section its called something else you don't even think would be labeled the same way. So keep track of the circuit and wire numbers. And there a japan, and euro wiring for these cars too that can get confusing when you get deep into the dash harness, and BCM.
The only common thing most guys remove, you have to change in have the VATS changed in the PCM for the wire (PCM pin) for "fuel pump enable/VTD" or something like that. Removing that wire without changing for it in the PCM. I think the car will start once. but stall immediately not running the FP. And you have to wait for the 10mins or whatever for the vats the reset but its just gona stall again anyway. Also if you run a shiftlight or some electric box you need a RPM/tack singnal. Its pin 21 I think? its a white wire that goes to the Cruise, keep that pin if you need it. Its easy to forgot you need it for the aftermarket stuff were you only thinking stock stuff and removing anything you can.
check my thread I started doing this "lightweight race harness putting this bitch in a diet" . haha or "under a diet"? I misspell it on propose as a joke me and smurff/440LSX were doing. But I linked it ot some other threads removing wires with the PCM pin outs, and some of the swap guys posted what you need to run the motor ect. in other links you can find a ton of info reading the linked threads.
The only common thing most guys remove, you have to change in have the VATS changed in the PCM for the wire (PCM pin) for "fuel pump enable/VTD" or something like that. Removing that wire without changing for it in the PCM. I think the car will start once. but stall immediately not running the FP. And you have to wait for the 10mins or whatever for the vats the reset but its just gona stall again anyway. Also if you run a shiftlight or some electric box you need a RPM/tack singnal. Its pin 21 I think? its a white wire that goes to the Cruise, keep that pin if you need it. Its easy to forgot you need it for the aftermarket stuff were you only thinking stock stuff and removing anything you can.
check my thread I started doing this "lightweight race harness putting this bitch in a diet" . haha or "under a diet"? I misspell it on propose as a joke me and smurff/440LSX were doing. But I linked it ot some other threads removing wires with the PCM pin outs, and some of the swap guys posted what you need to run the motor ect. in other links you can find a ton of info reading the linked threads.
Last edited by studderin; 12-12-2010 at 06:48 PM.
12-12-2010, 06:34 PM
#17
also if you run N20 I heard you can use R53 to pull timing. I'm not sure if it like the AIT tricked, but it might be better for a SD tune. Haven't looked into what pin R53 dose for a PCM table. I have Mike@NewEra do all my tuning, he's really good and know everything about that and HPtuners.
