cutting rear bumpstops metal / coil pocket off.
#1
cutting rear bumpstops metal / coil pocket off.
I've seen a lot of guys do this, but it looks to be the side of the frame rail. But is there any side affects? I have my wolfe 6point rear bars (shortened a little) on the 6x6 plates right over the top of the coil and on the edge of the metal for the shock. So its stronger then the stock area. I don,t need the extra room, my 28x10.5 fit with cutting the lip to were the bumpstop bolt holes are. But heard they weigh 4-5# a side, so would like to loose that.
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#15
I've seen a lot of guys do this, but it looks to be the side of the frame rail. But is there any side affects? I have my wolfe 6point rear bars (shortened a little) on the 6x6 plates right over the top of the coil and on the edge of the metal for the shock. So its stronger then the stock area. I don,t need the extra room, my 28x10.5 fit with cutting the lip to were the bumpstop bolt holes are. But heard they weigh 4-5# a side, so would like to loose that.
I used a sawz all and a wafer blade/grinder. All those seams in that pic are welded together fwiw.
#16
Race your car!
iTrader: (50)
When we did the deep mini tubs on my car we cut so far in that the hole the shock attaches to, is no longer there lol. Car has a 25.3 cert in it with cool overs moved inside the frame rails and a wishbone that's tied to the chassis, everything is tied into the chassis as well... So the frame rails are just there for the ride.
Point is that you can cut that away, if you have a roll bar in the car tied to where the springs and shocks are, and the back of the frame rails as well you should have zero issues. Cutting that out with no rollbar/cage may have long term effects...
Point is that you can cut that away, if you have a roll bar in the car tied to where the springs and shocks are, and the back of the frame rails as well you should have zero issues. Cutting that out with no rollbar/cage may have long term effects...
Last edited by JL ws-6; 05-26-2013 at 06:53 PM.