Ours are somewhat streetable. O deep pothole at speed is not a good idea. We will not clear factory wheels due to the bump steer kit. We can do them in stock to 1.5" drop.

 

did you guys read my build thread? I ran into all of that,, I tied like 5 different wheels on the racecraft ones. 16 Z28, 17s, 18 GM 18 aftermarket.. I got pics of were the hit, you could maybe get a 18 to fit, but the stock tierod is really tall.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/drag-raci...h-diet-19.html


I was looking into changing to a rod end putting it right on the steering arm. But then you have to drill out the taper on the racecraft sterring arm, and And I'm sure the bump steer would be off. (well your not going to have to add all the spacers as when you have your car dropped alot on stock drop so the lower arms are no longer level, and taller then the rack in. That depends on what Kmember/rack setup. I got the racecraft ones with the plan to use the stock rack, and run stock wheels and drag wheels. They do work with the stock rack fine, and are built very well. And they have room at the top for most rims. Stock lower arms get really close with a 16 wheel fitting over them. At turns I'm sure they will hit, when they rock over the arms, I forgot to check that.
Racecraft will not make any other drop then the 2inch. they jig really isn't built for it, and the brackets they use. But Mark form racecraft now works at DMC racecars in SC Hasn't been there that long but told me he's thinking about making spindles there, and maybe at diffrent drops. That would be great if you want to wait till that happends, sounds like you can get everything you wanted for a street/light setup. The thing is, there not many people wanting that. Guys getting this stuff is most full race cars. Not many want to have these really nice spindle and brake setup for stock 16 Z28 wheels and power streering still. lol The racecraft one are nice if you lower your car a bunch. I know a local to me has a set of the 17x 4.5 wheels on for his Z06 I would like to test fit but havn't had the time.

The burkhart ones are nice too. I got mine is stock height. There sterring shaft only comes with strait hole. So if you want to run the stock rack you have to buy a bumpsteer kit to bolt a rod end to them and the 14mm threads on the end. There like $140, and there spindles are more at $595 So its a bit more then running the racecraft that bolt right on.
I put my stock spindles and brakes back on for the shootout, and test drove the car the night before just to check the brakes. Anyone I put the stock wheels back on the front becuse all I had was stock 12mm lugnuts at the time. And forgot how good the car drove on the street with a normal front wheels. The front radial skinny's suck so bad. even in light car, with PS with 44psi in them. I manage with them, but I kinda wish I just sold all this drop spindle stuff and got the brake kit for stock spindles while I still street drive the car a lot. But it also gets old, stuff not working with other parts after your told it bolts right on before you buy them. And spending all the time changing all this stuff. End of this year Ive had the front suspension off my car like 4 times. Switch back brake kits, bleeding them, and redoing the alignment gets old.
Looks like with the burkhart spindle/brake is 10.4#s lighter then stocks, And the skinny's are alot lighter then stock wheels. I think those are 40pounds each? But its one thing I really don't like how it changed the car for street driving and I can deal with alot. I'll see how this burkhart stuff in, I got a manual rack too. Since running a wider front wheel doesn't work with these setups, so should be a really light setup you can street drive with a skinny radial.