Anyone have a NHRA tech book? How thick does a fuel cell have to be?
04-09-2011, 08:45 PM
#1
Anyone have a NHRA tech book? How thick does a fuel cell have to be? What guage aluminum does a fuel cell have to be? Im working a dedicated fuel system and cant find my tech book!
Thanks in advance
Austin
Thanks in advance
Austin
Last edited by 355z28; 04-09-2011 at 09:09 PM.
05-02-2011, 08:16 PM
#6
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fuel cells must have a metal box protecting the part of the fuel cell that is outside of the body lines or trunk floor, excluding hose connection area in rear. the metal box must be constructed of minimum .024 steel or .032 aluminum. nonmetallic fuel cells or tanks must be grounded to the frame.
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05-06-2011, 09:18 PM
#8
If you are putting the fuel cell in the nose, it needs a piece or rollbar tubing around it if it's outside the frame rails. I don't recall the thickness of the tubing needed, but I believe it's the same spec as roll cage material, min dia of 1 1/8. I know whatever size the tubing on Burkhart's bumper support is, is legal size, fwiw.
Not sure where you are looking to put it.
Yes plastic cell's are legal. We mount those in the nose all the time on cars for stand alone fuel systems for nitrous cars. Also use a 2 or 3 gallon as a primary and nitrous feed fual tank on the race cars, as they don't need much more then that to make a pass down the track.
Not sure where you are looking to put it.
Yes plastic cell's are legal. We mount those in the nose all the time on cars for stand alone fuel systems for nitrous cars. Also use a 2 or 3 gallon as a primary and nitrous feed fual tank on the race cars, as they don't need much more then that to make a pass down the track.
05-11-2011, 12:07 PM
#9
This will be a dedicated fue cell for a nitrous system. I was originallygoing to put it in the battery location in the front and relocate the battery to the rear.
Ive been debating putting the cell in the rear of the car, does anything need to be added to make it pass tech if I put it back there?
Ive been debating putting the cell in the rear of the car, does anything need to be added to make it pass tech if I put it back there?
05-11-2011, 12:48 PM
#10
If you put it back there you will need a firewall in the trunk to seperate it from the cabin. And, the weight of all the line to go to the front of the car, along with the cost makes that not a good idea Imo.
There's plenty of room to put an alum cell together that will sit where the battery did. That's not a problem. If you wanted to put it in the nose burkhart's nose support or build your own, and you will have plenty of room there, and it's legal inside their structure. If you take the burkhart route they also can build a cell to fit in their support.
The battery location nitro dave has one, you can build a duplicate of that cheaper if you can weld I'm sure, but that should give you an idea how it sits in the car.
There's plenty of room to put an alum cell together that will sit where the battery did. That's not a problem. If you wanted to put it in the nose burkhart's nose support or build your own, and you will have plenty of room there, and it's legal inside their structure. If you take the burkhart route they also can build a cell to fit in their support.
The battery location nitro dave has one, you can build a duplicate of that cheaper if you can weld I'm sure, but that should give you an idea how it sits in the car.
05-11-2011, 07:59 PM
#11
I originally planned to make a battery location cell. But after all of the threads of people have trouble with the car starting after putting the bat to the back is holding me back. This is still a street car with leather/air conditioning and all.
05-12-2011, 06:28 AM
#12
All the people having problems are doing something wrong. I simply ran a 0 ga welding cable from the battery to a stud I wended to the cage plate to ground it, then ran a piece of the same cable to the kill switch, then off the other side of the kill switch up to the hvac delete plate, to a firewall connector, then on the other sude, I ran a piece of the same cable up to the stock 3 power wires, and crimped/soldered them all together. The ALT wire, I took off, ran that to a 4 ga wire that had a 200 amp fuse, that ran back to the battery.
Simple. Car started right up just like the battery was in the front. I'm telling you that they didn't ground something right, or they had faulty stuff to begin with.
If you want to move the battery... move it. It is a strait forward thing, the car doesn't "know" the battery is anywhere. Just make sure it's grounded good, and make sure you ground the battery terminals in the front of the car right and it should be fine.
Harris makes a small standalone that fits next to the fuse boxes on the drivers side if you really don't want to move the battery, you probably could duplicate that location if you wanted to, just going to be a little more tricky to build a cell over there.
Simple. Car started right up just like the battery was in the front. I'm telling you that they didn't ground something right, or they had faulty stuff to begin with.
If you want to move the battery... move it. It is a strait forward thing, the car doesn't "know" the battery is anywhere. Just make sure it's grounded good, and make sure you ground the battery terminals in the front of the car right and it should be fine.
Harris makes a small standalone that fits next to the fuse boxes on the drivers side if you really don't want to move the battery, you probably could duplicate that location if you wanted to, just going to be a little more tricky to build a cell over there.
