BAIN

iTrader: (5)

Can you add fans to that cooler? Or will it make any difference since it is a stacked plate type? How do you have them piped together?

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

Yours gets that hot becuase it's spragless. Spragless converter's generate alot more heat then a converter with a sprag in it.... but you don't have to worry about the sprag going bad, so it's a trade off.

Wicked94Z

iTrader: (26)

Spragless converters running hot isn't quite proven in my experience, at least not just driving around town. Yes going down the track it makes some heat, but probably much less than your "average" outlaw turbo car with a 10" converter.

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

Probably.. but those guys also aren't trying to drive them at all.

I would think the longer periods of it running/slipping is going to generate more heat, and certainly alot mroe heat soak in everything.

htownws6

iTrader: (1)

I had the same problem with my TH400. I replaced the converter (because I wasn't happy with it) with a yank converter and the problem went away. Don't discount the converter...

tim99ws6

iTrader: (31)

Bain,

You're F'ing yourself by having the fan in front of the cooler. There's little to no surface area for the cooler to do it's intended purpose. A fan is only going to help when there is no forced air on the cooler. You'd be better off moving the fan to the back side and having it pull.

Did you see the cooler location we put on Quint's car? I've always been a fan of mounting the coolers at the back of the car. Give's the radiator more suface area and allows still enough places to run a cooler with a fan on it.

ssdeuce74

iTrader: (2)

if the converter is a spragless that could do it, what fluid do you run, i run synthetic and helps keep temps down on my race car it never gets reaal hot to the touch

BAIN

iTrader: (5)

I haven't seen pics of Quint's cooler location. Please post up.

tim99ws6

iTrader: (31)

I'll see if i can find any pics of it.

MUSTANGBRKR02

iTrader: (91)

The converter is a FTI less than 300 miles specs to my setup.

If you are not wandering my problem please start your own thread. I have no clue who is responding to who in here.

tim99ws6

iTrader: (31)

Don't be a dick,

My answer to Bain may very well apply to your situation as well. Knowledge is crucial. I'll give you one more piece of advice:

You aren't running near enough gear, thuse putting a huge amount of work on your converter, inducing converter slip and also inducing heat. Something to think about.

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

Did Greg tell you what kind of tranny fluid to run with his converter? I'm just curious if it's anything other then the standard dextron 3 or type F. We have used John Deere Hy-gard hydraulic fluid in a few cars, it tightens the converter up a little bit, and helps alot with heat. Only bad part is that it's clear, so you have to run a little type 3 atf with it just so you can see the stuff, in the event you have a leak.

MUSTANGBRKR02

iTrader: (91)

Not being a dick just have no clue besides your response tim which started with his name. For the rest of them I have no clue who the question is geared towards. Just trying to get advice on how to fix my problem is all. I thought I asked nice enough as to not sound like a "dick".

Talked to Greg at FTI he gave me a few things to check. 1. Return line for 1 quart of fluid in 30 seconds. Talk to the builder of the trans to find out If there is a vented pump and valve in it as this will cause low line pressure with overheating another reason why Greg stated that the converter feels loose as it shouldn't with what it is.

I called the builder and am awaiting his response. I will check fluid flow later when I get home.

tim99ws6

iTrader: (31)

Probably the best feeling to have someone as knowledgeable as Greg in your team! I also run a FTI and he's helped me numerous times. Hope it works out for ya!

Mattsv8

iTrader: (7)

run dual coolers?

MUSTANGBRKR02

iTrader: (91)

I checked fluid flow. I got 1 gallon thru the return in about twenty seconds. I called Greg and told him. As per his advice I am pulling the converter and sending it to him to get checked out. If everything is good then he will let me know and I will then chase the pump or valve in the transmission.

Thanks for all the help so far.

Wicked94Z

iTrader: (26)

sounds like good customer service

I second the hygard... I love the stuff. As I've posted before you run the 44-2500 hydraulic red dye from toro and you don't need to mix any regular atf in there.

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

The dye is a good idea. we usually have about 8 qts in a car if it's totally dry... 7 qts hygard, 1 qt atf is what we do...

MUSTANGBRKR02

iTrader: (91)

So what fluid should I run then?

MUSTANGBRKR02

iTrader: (91)

Update. I got the converter back from FTI and got it in the transmission last night. I took it out today and it definetly drives alot better. It does not need half as much throttle to get going and isn't near as sluggish as it was before. After a 10-15 minute drive it got to about 194 cruising at about 60 MPH. At a stop light for about two minutes it went from 150 to 154 at idle and held 154 for about a minute. Greg had mentioned that he had found some stator bearing holes a little shallow and was going to open them up (If I remember correctly). I also relocated the fan away from the radiator a little bit.

Now I know that it is working better but i think that the rear gear is not helping it. 3.0 with a 28" tire. I am thinking of going to a 3.50 gear to also try to help it. I would like to get the transmission temps down to about 170-180. I am also debating one bigger cooler or another cooler in parallell with the other, what is everyone's thoughts? I still think 200 is a little bit warm.

Thanks to Greg and FTI for the very fast turn around time and helping me out trying to figure this out.