painful wheel hop
05-16-2011, 06:43 PM
#1
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painful wheel hop hey guys i just recently finished a new build on my car, and i plan on getting some new times in. well last time i happend to go to the track i went up for a pre-stage going around the water box, came to a complete stop rev'd my car to around 3k and dropped the clutch the rear wheels instantly started hoping and i let out of it. went to line up and wait for the tree start, then i reved it back up to 3k and drop it the car damn near killed it's self the wheel hope was so bad. when i was racing it i didnt have a rear sway bar on it could that be the problem? also before a went to the track i also blew my 10 bolt up and bent the TQ arm. due to a lack of money i bent it back and through a 9in in. does anyone know what my problem could be? i am replacing my tq arm and i did put a new sway bar on there. i would like to get some slicks but i cant imagine the damage i would do to the car with slicks and that bad of wheel hope
05-16-2011, 08:24 PM
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well so far, ill start with the i have the pa racing k-member, umi rear sway bar, umi sub frames, coming in the mail are umi relocation bracket and lca's with pan hard bar. then next month will be tq arm
05-16-2011, 09:47 PM
#7
If you bent the tq arm.. the car shouldn't even be moving under it's own power before you replace that. You're asking for problems, once it's been bent, you can not just bend it back and run it! The thing is fatigued and will, if it hasn't already bent again.
Your pinion angle is for sure jacked up, instant center is probably jacked as well.
Let the car sit, until it has all the parts on it, then make another attempt to set it up properly.
When you go to do your burnout, roll into the water, get the tires wet with a quick spin, stop, set line lock, and then 3000+ drop the clutch, and let them smoke for a good 5 count, and release the line lock and power thru until they start to grab then clutch in and stop the car... put it in neutral, pump the clutch at least 8 times to circulate the clutch fluid a little, then stage and let it eat.
Not sure what your procedure is, but the above works.... as for launch RPM and all that, a 2 step will do wonders for your consistancey and will help you get the most from it. Not sure what you have on the car for a tire either..... if you want to get the most out of the stick, it needs to be a bias ply slick, on a 15 inch rim if you're not already on that type of setup. Anything less is going to compromise performance.
Your pinion angle is for sure jacked up, instant center is probably jacked as well.
Let the car sit, until it has all the parts on it, then make another attempt to set it up properly.
When you go to do your burnout, roll into the water, get the tires wet with a quick spin, stop, set line lock, and then 3000+ drop the clutch, and let them smoke for a good 5 count, and release the line lock and power thru until they start to grab then clutch in and stop the car... put it in neutral, pump the clutch at least 8 times to circulate the clutch fluid a little, then stage and let it eat.
Not sure what your procedure is, but the above works.... as for launch RPM and all that, a 2 step will do wonders for your consistancey and will help you get the most from it. Not sure what you have on the car for a tire either..... if you want to get the most out of the stick, it needs to be a bias ply slick, on a 15 inch rim if you're not already on that type of setup. Anything less is going to compromise performance.
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05-17-2011, 07:23 AM
#9
Once you do have the parts for a better TQ arm, if going with a stocker length. Invest in a TQ arm relocation cross member. This takes the pressure of the tail shaft of the trans and you will eliminate the chance of breaking the tailshaft which has happend and is not a cheap fix.
Plus you can play with instant center and trans removal becomes a whole lot easier.
Plus you can play with instant center and trans removal becomes a whole lot easier.
