why stiff wall slicks?
#3
10 Second Club
iTrader: (26)
you can shock the tire so hard with a heavy stick car that it will kill the sidewall life. You don't need the sidewall to cushion the hit, you need the tire and chassis to transfer it into forward motion. I was nearly bounching the rim off the ground on my car off the 'brake (converter goes flashes ~5700) with ET Streets and no tubes. Tubes add rotating mass and require screwing the rim though.
#6
Trending Topics
#9
Race your car!
iTrader: (50)
The stiff sidewall tires will have alot better life, and the sidewall vs car weight is alot better matched.
Mike C don't go telling people that you don't have to screw tires with tubes... this is a very bad idea. That tire slips, and if the tube doesn't slip on the tire you'll rip the valve stem right off the tube and you'll be headed for a wall quick....
Tubes, with no screws, is a NO NO
Mike C don't go telling people that you don't have to screw tires with tubes... this is a very bad idea. That tire slips, and if the tube doesn't slip on the tire you'll rip the valve stem right off the tube and you'll be headed for a wall quick....
Tubes, with no screws, is a NO NO
#10
The stiff sidewall tires will have alot better life, and the sidewall vs car weight is alot better matched.
Mike C don't go telling people that you don't have to screw tires with tubes... this is a very bad idea. That tire slips, and if the tube doesn't slip on the tire you'll rip the valve stem right off the tube and you'll be headed for a wall quick....
Tubes, with no screws, is a NO NO
Mike C don't go telling people that you don't have to screw tires with tubes... this is a very bad idea. That tire slips, and if the tube doesn't slip on the tire you'll rip the valve stem right off the tube and you'll be headed for a wall quick....
Tubes, with no screws, is a NO NO
#11
#13
10 Second Club
iTrader: (35)
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Indiana boy
Posts: 4,174
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I ran a 28x10.5 et drag in a stiff side wall on my 2730 lb mustang. I did this cause I wanted it to react quicker to the light. It felt very soft on my car at 12-16 lbs of air. Any lower and it would wad the tire up so bad the rim would almost hit the ground and drove like **** down track.
The stiff is really needed on a heavy 3400-3800 lb camaro. It would beat the side walls to death on a non "S" tire I think.
I ran these with radial front tires. Kuhomo power stars. And it drove great.
The stiff is really needed on a heavy 3400-3800 lb camaro. It would beat the side walls to death on a non "S" tire I think.
I ran these with radial front tires. Kuhomo power stars. And it drove great.
#14
Banned
iTrader: (14)
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Colorado Springs
Posts: 2,220
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
How do you identify a stiff wall when ordering? I've researched and am coming up short. Is the ET drag that carries an "S" at the end of the part number denoting it is a stiffwall? I thought QTP's were a bias ply but I hear about QTP's being stiffwalled as well.
Can someone clarify?
Can someone clarify?
#15
You could always go to the manufacturer's site and look at their product listing. I know M/T specifies whether the sidewall is stiff or not. The mots commonly run stiff sidewall tire is probably the 3055S, which is the 28x10.5
#16
10 Second Club
iTrader: (11)
How do you identify a stiff wall when ordering? I've researched and am coming up short. Is the ET drag that carries an "S" at the end of the part number denoting it is a stiffwall? I thought QTP's were a bias ply but I hear about QTP's being stiffwalled as well.
Can someone clarify?
Can someone clarify?
#18
TECH Apprentice
iTrader: (9)
How do you identify a stiff wall when ordering? I've researched and am coming up short. Is the ET drag that carries an "S" at the end of the part number denoting it is a stiffwall? I thought QTP's were a bias ply but I hear about QTP's being stiffwalled as well.
Can someone clarify?
Can someone clarify?