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why stiff wall slicks?

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Old 05-22-2011, 09:07 PM
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Default why stiff wall slicks?

It seems like most people on here recommend stiff wall slicks why is that? are we afraid they will grow and rub? I would think soft walls would be better with my manual car?
Old 05-22-2011, 09:17 PM
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The stiff walls don't "wad up" like a standard sidewall on heavier cars. This will net better 60ft times and lower et's
Old 05-22-2011, 11:21 PM
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you can shock the tire so hard with a heavy stick car that it will kill the sidewall life. You don't need the sidewall to cushion the hit, you need the tire and chassis to transfer it into forward motion. I was nearly bounching the rim off the ground on my car off the 'brake (converter goes flashes ~5700) with ET Streets and no tubes. Tubes add rotating mass and require screwing the rim though.
Old 05-23-2011, 08:58 AM
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I have tubes in my M&H Racemasters and never screwed them to the rims. No issues in years. I cut 1.42 60's on a 3,700lbs car with me in it.
Old 05-23-2011, 08:45 PM
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i had soft wall slicks and hated them.....my car moved around so much.
Old 05-25-2011, 03:54 PM
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Originally Posted by brandoz28
The stiff walls don't "wad up" like a standard sidewall on heavier cars. This will net better 60ft times and lower et's
i was under the impression that you want the tire to "wrinkle" on the hit, is this wrong?
Old 05-25-2011, 05:02 PM
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Because you can't shove it up someone's *** with a softy! haha sorry this came to mind when I saw the title and thought it was funny.
Old 05-25-2011, 06:59 PM
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Originally Posted by custm2500
Because you can't shove it up someone's *** with a softy! haha sorry this came to mind when I saw the title and thought it was funny.
Thats one hell of a sense of humor there hoss. Is there some you need to tell everyone j/k
Old 05-25-2011, 07:02 PM
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The stiff sidewall tires will have alot better life, and the sidewall vs car weight is alot better matched.

Mike C don't go telling people that you don't have to screw tires with tubes... this is a very bad idea. That tire slips, and if the tube doesn't slip on the tire you'll rip the valve stem right off the tube and you'll be headed for a wall quick....

Tubes, with no screws, is a NO NO
Old 05-25-2011, 09:40 PM
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Originally Posted by JL ws-6
The stiff sidewall tires will have alot better life, and the sidewall vs car weight is alot better matched.

Mike C don't go telling people that you don't have to screw tires with tubes... this is a very bad idea. That tire slips, and if the tube doesn't slip on the tire you'll rip the valve stem right off the tube and you'll be headed for a wall quick....

Tubes, with no screws, is a NO NO
This makes a lot of sence! I am still debating to pull the tubes out of my 28x11.5-16s but being a tire guy the thought of running a tube type tire without a tube makes me sick. I should have plenty of power to need screws regardless if I keep the tubes or not.
Old 05-25-2011, 09:41 PM
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Originally Posted by theskitztikwon
Thats one hell of a sense of humor there hoss. Is there some you need to tell everyone j/k
I like jokes or statements with multiple meanings. To clear it up:
Kick someones *** in a race
a Girl for the other meaning!
Old 05-25-2011, 09:45 PM
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Can someone post examples of stiffwall slicks? Do you run a radial front with them?
Old 05-26-2011, 12:24 AM
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I ran a 28x10.5 et drag in a stiff side wall on my 2730 lb mustang. I did this cause I wanted it to react quicker to the light. It felt very soft on my car at 12-16 lbs of air. Any lower and it would wad the tire up so bad the rim would almost hit the ground and drove like **** down track.

The stiff is really needed on a heavy 3400-3800 lb camaro. It would beat the side walls to death on a non "S" tire I think.
I ran these with radial front tires. Kuhomo power stars. And it drove great.
Old 05-26-2011, 06:09 AM
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How do you identify a stiff wall when ordering? I've researched and am coming up short. Is the ET drag that carries an "S" at the end of the part number denoting it is a stiffwall? I thought QTP's were a bias ply but I hear about QTP's being stiffwalled as well.

Can someone clarify?
Old 05-26-2011, 07:06 AM
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You could always go to the manufacturer's site and look at their product listing. I know M/T specifies whether the sidewall is stiff or not. The mots commonly run stiff sidewall tire is probably the 3055S, which is the 28x10.5
Old 05-26-2011, 07:01 PM
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Originally Posted by joblo1978
How do you identify a stiff wall when ordering? I've researched and am coming up short. Is the ET drag that carries an "S" at the end of the part number denoting it is a stiffwall? I thought QTP's were a bias ply but I hear about QTP's being stiffwalled as well.

Can someone clarify?
I beleive the QTP are not sold as stiff wall, but the sidewalls are stiff because of a DOT rating if this makes any sense. I run them drove 80 miles to the track,race and drove home. unless you get in some bad road crown it feels fine and doesnt move much on me for what its worth.
Old 05-26-2011, 08:08 PM
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QTPs ARE NOT a Stiff wall tire. 14psi almost had my rim bouncing of the ground.
Old 05-26-2011, 08:10 PM
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Originally Posted by joblo1978
How do you identify a stiff wall when ordering? I've researched and am coming up short. Is the ET drag that carries an "S" at the end of the part number denoting it is a stiffwall? I thought QTP's were a bias ply but I hear about QTP's being stiffwalled as well.

Can someone clarify?
As far as Mickey Thompson goes, yes the "S" at the end of the part number means it's a stiff sidewall.
Old 05-26-2011, 08:48 PM
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Originally Posted by AChotrod
QTPs ARE NOT a Stiff wall tire. 14psi almost had my rim bouncing of the ground.
Yes not a stiff wall but stiffer than a wrinkly wall tire. haha
Old 05-30-2011, 04:40 PM
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Thats true^^ lol


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