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Old 08-09-2011, 08:11 AM
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WOW. A 2,500lbs car. I could run 9's easy at that weight and 8's on my bottle. My car was 3480lbs with out me and i'm 225-230lbs.
Old 08-09-2011, 01:12 PM
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Originally Posted by mike c.
WOW. A 2,500lbs car. I could run 9's easy at that weight and 8's on my bottle. My car was 3480lbs with out me and i'm 225-230lbs.
Problem is getting one that light isnt easy.
Old 08-09-2011, 07:03 PM
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Id like to see pics of the firewall...I thought i read you guys modded it like smiths I could be wrong tho.
Old 08-09-2011, 07:56 PM
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Originally Posted by SSPerformance
Id like to see pics of the firewall...I thought i read you guys modded it like smiths I could be wrong tho.
Yes, we had to cut into the firewall pretty far.
Would be hard to get a pic of it because the headers go into it/hide it sort of.
Basically 2 tubes are set into the firewall.
Old 08-10-2011, 09:40 AM
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Originally Posted by JL ws-6
I don't know if you did the slip on collector or not... if you did, the mozez heads have 2 bolts per cyl right? If so at least you can take 1/2 the header off then get the steering shaft out.


Header fab is somewhat of an art... you have to have an eye for how to lay it out then have the ability to make the tubing do what you want it to. My local fab guy , I've helped build a couple sets with him (the pictured ones that weren't relevant for you guys) as well as some that had some pretty long primary's (bb chrysler in a 68 dart)... it's fun to do, but can be very time consuming.
No the flange is a single flange. the collector are bolt on. We can take them off by just sliding the steering shaft out (into the car) then the whole header comes out. the pass side is easy nothing over there.
Old 08-10-2011, 09:41 AM
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Originally Posted by ATVracr
Problem is getting one that light isnt easy.
or cheap.
Old 08-10-2011, 10:08 AM
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Did you guys center the motor in the frame rails or leave it offset like it comes from the factory? Curious if it would have made anything any easier... may screw with the way the car runs though, and I don't think you want to do that the car runs damn good.
Old 08-10-2011, 12:14 PM
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Left it offset, made the passenger side harder to fit all the pipes in.

2 1/2" tubes and 5" collector = Pain in the ***.
Old 08-10-2011, 12:20 PM
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holy hell those are big primaries
Old 08-10-2011, 01:03 PM
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They need to be.
Old 08-10-2011, 01:08 PM
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Originally Posted by ATVracr
Left it offset, made the passenger side harder to fit all the pipes in.

2 1/2" tubes and 5" collector = Pain in the ***.
Mine is offset also, I had to notch the frame rails 5/16" to get the headers to fit on the passenger side. What a PITA to get to the plugs.
Old 08-10-2011, 02:18 PM
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we thought about centering it or some other tricks but decided the motor offset works well with ofsetting wayne and left it. we didn't have to notch the frame but its real close. we did have to cut all the extra metal around the back of strut towers. the headers real close to the uper a arm.
Old 08-10-2011, 05:27 PM
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What are the rules for the strut towers for your class? Could you have cut it out, and then re-built a tubular attachment to the frame, just leaving the mounting point?

I think tyty did that with his car, and I think he was running a 275 tire class... not sure if the rules are the same. He had aBBC but with the issues that you're having it's kind of the same at this point.
Old 08-11-2011, 07:57 AM
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Car is looking good guys!

Those headers look extremely tight in there too, but as long as you can change the plugs your golden.
Old 08-11-2011, 10:36 PM
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Originally Posted by JL ws-6
What are the rules for the strut towers for your class? Could you have cut it out, and then re-built a tubular attachment to the frame, just leaving the mounting point?

I think tyty did that with his car, and I think he was running a 275 tire class... not sure if the rules are the same. He had aBBC but with the issues that you're having it's kind of the same at this point.
Stock mounting points so i think we could have cut it all the way out and then just had the 4 holes and the double wall plate that holds the upper in. But you never know how they could change the rules so we kept all the front stock mounting suspention points and original metal that was possible.
Old 08-12-2011, 07:16 AM
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Steve or Wayne - what rear springs are you guys using?
Old 08-12-2011, 07:27 AM
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Afco double adjustable coil overs from Madman, not sure the exact spring.
Old 08-12-2011, 07:34 AM
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Gotcha - Im guessing you moved the shock to the back side of the housing?

Im planning to use the wolfe adjusters for coil over springs in the stock location.
Old 08-12-2011, 07:45 AM
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Originally Posted by ShiznityZ28
Stock mounting points so i think we could have cut it all the way out and then just had the 4 holes and the double wall plate that holds the upper in. But you never know how they could change the rules so we kept all the front stock mounting suspention points and original metal that was possible.
Got ya. That's one of those things if they did change it, requiring more of the stock metal then you have in the car... it's not like it's something you could really undo.

I have seen a picture of one car I will have to try to find it, they made a "U" shape, that was welded on the frame rail to hold the inner side up and the outer side had the forward bars off the rollbar holding it up. they also tri-angulated it with an additional bar that tied into the dash bar, they ran back into the cabin, and there was a couple little bars triangulating it together. And it was done to make BBC header clearance. Thise headers were REALLY big though, looked like 2 5/8 primary's if I remember right, and it was for a tall deck motor.
Old 08-12-2011, 07:52 AM
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Originally Posted by ATwelveSec02Z28
Gotcha - Im guessing you moved the shock to the back side of the housing?

Im planning to use the wolfe adjusters for coil over springs in the stock location.
Our coil overs are in the stock shock location.
Autofab makes a direct bolt in kit.


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