Reaction Time Question
08-10-2011, 03:42 PM
#1
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Reaction Time Question How do you read these? If you have a .325 is that better or worse than.087? What is the best time to try and get?
Thanks
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08-10-2011, 03:52 PM
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If it's the same track, then lower is better.
If one is at a track that uses .000 and one is at a track that uses .400 or .500, you have to add the tree to compare.
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If it's the same track, then lower is better.
If one is at a track that uses .000 and one is at a track that uses .400 or .500, you have to add the tree to compare.
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08-10-2011, 05:10 PM
#4
So older timing systems a .5 is what most of us know as a .000. It took into account the standard human reaction time? so if you leave on the light it says you took .5?
It makes sense in my mind but not sure I explained the way it is.
Time line: yellow, yellow, yellow, .5 leave(trip the beam)= .000 in modern timing, =.5 in old school?
It makes sense in my mind but not sure I explained the way it is.
Time line: yellow, yellow, yellow, .5 leave(trip the beam)= .000 in modern timing, =.5 in old school?
08-11-2011, 07:15 PM
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The reaction time clock starts once the green light on the tree is illuminated...in order to acheive a competitive reaction time on a .500 FULL TREE you HAVE to leave before the green bulb illuminates. Very difficult to get a competitive RT with an average street car on a PRO tree (.400 Pro tree is a whole 'nother can of worms). You acheive this by breaking the reaction time beams with your front tires also known as "rollout". Smaller diameter (like 24") front tires help with slower cars to gain RT...larger diameter (like 28") front tires slow the RT. This is just the basics...could go way more in-depth with this.
Last edited by BAMALS1; 08-12-2011 at 09:30 AM.
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08-11-2011, 07:53 PM
#8
I still haven't confirmed. a .000 light is you trip the beam at the exact moment it turns green? This is what I have always "known".
The old light system you tripped the beam at the same moment it turns green but it was called a .500?
The old light system you tripped the beam at the same moment it turns green but it was called a .500?
08-11-2011, 10:53 PM
#10
So on the old bulbs a .500 was perfect and .499, .498, etc. resulted in a redlight.
Now the new LED lights a .000 is perfect and -.001, -.002, etc results in a redlight. And .001, .002, etc. is green.
08-12-2011, 07:02 AM
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Just want to point out you can not make a blanket statement like you HAVE to leave on the flash of the bottom bulb.
You're going to screw up the new guys??
If I leave on the flash, I'm red by a bunch!!
Others have to leave before the last flash, or they are dead late.
Every car and driver is different, and there is no way to say what is right or wrong.
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Just want to point out you can not make a blanket statement like you HAVE to leave on the flash of the bottom bulb.
You're going to screw up the new guys??
If I leave on the flash, I'm red by a bunch!!
Others have to leave before the last flash, or they are dead late.
Every car and driver is different, and there is no way to say what is right or wrong.
.
08-12-2011, 08:49 AM
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Fixed, That is true. Just using the flash as an example for the average bolt on car on a test n tune night that will see a full tree. I meant to point that out. Every car is different! Thanks
Last edited by BAMALS1; 08-12-2011 at 09:22 AM.
08-12-2011, 11:22 AM
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I hope I said it right, I was just trying to help.
Car reaction & driver reaction=total reaction time.
Was not trying to insult anyone, but wanted to inform the newer guys.
There is a huge difference in my 1.00 60' car and my 1.30 60' car, and I have to know & remember that.
Experience is the key to consistency, like most stuff in racing!!
Hope it helped??
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I hope I said it right, I was just trying to help.
Car reaction & driver reaction=total reaction time.
Was not trying to insult anyone, but wanted to inform the newer guys.
There is a huge difference in my 1.00 60' car and my 1.30 60' car, and I have to know & remember that.
Experience is the key to consistency, like most stuff in racing!!
Hope it helped??
.
