OK So my T56 DR experiment first time out
09-07-2011, 04:03 PM
#21
I cant say I know the live center. My car peaks about 6450 and doesnt really start to fall of until 6800. Im shifting at 6900-7000.
On my first pass I started at 16psi cold and about 18 after the pass when I rechecked them. It spun thats when I started dropping pressure.
Man this is tuff to get dialed when Im my own crew/builder/driver and never really messed with DA shocks before this car. The car worked so good on the stock shocks/springs and a 26 tire, its very frusterating. I went quicker NA than the car went on a 200shot.
On my first pass I started at 16psi cold and about 18 after the pass when I rechecked them. It spun thats when I started dropping pressure.
Man this is tuff to get dialed when Im my own crew/builder/driver and never really messed with DA shocks before this car. The car worked so good on the stock shocks/springs and a 26 tire, its very frusterating. I went quicker NA than the car went on a 200shot.
09-07-2011, 04:53 PM
#24
Im switching to a th350 down the road. Actually the build should have been done months ago but the shortblock still isnt ready after 9 months.
Also I drive the car on the street, the rules for my class dont allow a full drag slick and I have seen some T56 cars make DRs work. How Im not sure but 1.4s and wheel up made me want to try it.
Also I drive the car on the street, the rules for my class dont allow a full drag slick and I have seen some T56 cars make DRs work. How Im not sure but 1.4s and wheel up made me want to try it.
09-07-2011, 07:44 PM
#26
What parts do you think there are to break? Im thinkin the trans is the only thing that would break seeing as I snapped the main shaft on my last one. Other than that the entire car is built and I do plan on keeping this set up for the rest of the season now. Why not try and make it work? Dont really want to spen 400 on tires for a temporary set up.
If the trans goes I could always swap in the 350 early.
If the trans goes I could always swap in the 350 early.
09-07-2011, 08:08 PM
#28
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ya wait till you start shelling u joints, shafts and slip yokes. i tried a drag radial once with the t56 only way to attempt to make it work was to slip the hell out of the clutch. and then i broke ****. go to a bias ply and enjoy some 1.4s. what are your trap speeds n/a and on nitrous? what kind of power you making. i have 4.10s shifting at 6900 and crossing the line around 7k in 4th at 142mph on a 28
09-08-2011, 06:28 AM
#30
What parts do you think there are to break? Im thinkin the trans is the only thing that would break seeing as I snapped the main shaft on my last one. Other than that the entire car is built and I do plan on keeping this set up for the rest of the season now. Why not try and make it work? Dont really want to spen 400 on tires for a temporary set up.
If the trans goes I could always swap in the 350 early.
If the trans goes I could always swap in the 350 early.
Making it work involves time and money for many rental day runs and playing with the settings hoping you do not grenade the transmission, u-joints, clutches, driveshafts, yokes, rear end case, gears, axles, differentials, axle studs. Or frag the clutch through the floor and into your legs.
The reasons why you see a fast M6 drag radial car has to do with the clutch set up which is a Soft-loc from Mcleod which by the way Can NOT be driven on the street, track only, and very expensive upkeep and continous adjustment. That, or they spent for a Bias-ply slick and get a similar "slip/spin" that helps with launching.
Since you sound like you do not have the time, money, or much else to dedicate to this I would suggest playing with the setting and working with your technique. I am willing to wager you drive the car differently now with the different suspension and willing to wager you slipped the hell out of it to get it to run ok on stock suspension but now the confidence of all the aftermarket stuff I am sure has changed your launch technique.
Edit: I justed to add that I totally respect what your doing, and beleive me I am in a similar boat. But being down this path has gotten expensive and that was before fuel nearly tripled and the fact the that closest track is 2 hours one way, burning fuel, fees, and parts got a little nuts at this time.
Last edited by BlackScreaminMachine; 09-08-2011 at 07:05 AM.
09-08-2011, 11:12 AM
#33
ya wait till you start shelling u joints, shafts and slip yokes. i tried a drag radial once with the t56 only way to attempt to make it work was to slip the hell out of the clutch. and then i broke ****. go to a bias ply and enjoy some 1.4s. what are your trap speeds n/a and on nitrous? what kind of power you making. i have 4.10s shifting at 6900 and crossing the line around 7k in 4th at 142mph on a 28
The one thing you have going for you is that you seemingly do not care if you destroy that transmission and clutch set up. The smart move is to get the TH350 in there now, sell the T-56 for at least 1k, maybe more and go run some personal best.
Making it work involves time and money for many rental day runs and playing with the settings hoping you do not grenade the transmission, u-joints, clutches, driveshafts, yokes, rear end case, gears, axles, differentials, axle studs. Or frag the clutch through the floor and into your legs.
The reasons why you see a fast M6 drag radial car has to do with the clutch set up which is a Soft-loc from Mcleod which by the way Can NOT be driven on the street, track only, and very expensive upkeep and continous adjustment. That, or they spent for a Bias-ply slick and get a similar "slip/spin" that helps with launching.
Since you sound like you do not have the time, money, or much else to dedicate to this I would suggest playing with the setting and working with your technique. I am willing to wager you drive the car differently now with the different suspension and willing to wager you slipped the hell out of it to get it to run ok on stock suspension but now the confidence of all the aftermarket stuff I am sure has changed your launch technique.
Edit: I justed to add that I totally respect what your doing, and beleive me I am in a similar boat. But being down this path has gotten expensive and that was before fuel nearly tripled and the fact the that closest track is 2 hours one way, burning fuel, fees, and parts got a little nuts at this time.
Making it work involves time and money for many rental day runs and playing with the settings hoping you do not grenade the transmission, u-joints, clutches, driveshafts, yokes, rear end case, gears, axles, differentials, axle studs. Or frag the clutch through the floor and into your legs.
The reasons why you see a fast M6 drag radial car has to do with the clutch set up which is a Soft-loc from Mcleod which by the way Can NOT be driven on the street, track only, and very expensive upkeep and continous adjustment. That, or they spent for a Bias-ply slick and get a similar "slip/spin" that helps with launching.
Since you sound like you do not have the time, money, or much else to dedicate to this I would suggest playing with the setting and working with your technique. I am willing to wager you drive the car differently now with the different suspension and willing to wager you slipped the hell out of it to get it to run ok on stock suspension but now the confidence of all the aftermarket stuff I am sure has changed your launch technique.
Edit: I justed to add that I totally respect what your doing, and beleive me I am in a similar boat. But being down this path has gotten expensive and that was before fuel nearly tripled and the fact the that closest track is 2 hours one way, burning fuel, fees, and parts got a little nuts at this time.
I have a Street twin clutch, PST 3.5" DS, 3150 u-joints, S60 rear, 35 spline axles and ARP studs. I think the trans will go b4 anything else and I really dont care if it breaks. Well maybe the tru trac could bust but if it does the car will get a spool anyways. The trans wont be for sale anyways and it will go into storage with the rest of the stock parts from this car. Anyways the car is built for lots of power.
I have no Idea why its going into 5th. But it def is going into 5th NA at about 1100ft. I thought i would be crossing at a lower RPM???
09-08-2011, 01:26 PM
#35
Thats what I thought but Its a MT DR 275x60-15 tire, clutch def is not slipping and the gears have been the same since I installed the S60 2 years ago brand new. Dont ask me why but thats what is going on. Seems Impossible to me also. It worked just fine until the tire and shock changes
09-08-2011, 01:35 PM
#36
Heres and old vid on 27" QTPs. Went 11.6@119.44 NA. No other changes to the gears since then just the shocks and tires. Went through the traps in 4th in that vid. Not sure if I have a full run that shows shifting into 5th on the 28s. Ill look for one though
http://www.youtube.com/user/achotrod#p/u/9/6yiELaU-CRA
Im also thinking for what ever reason I was not getting a 200 shot even though it was jetted for 200
http://www.youtube.com/user/achotrod#p/u/9/6yiELaU-CRA
Im also thinking for what ever reason I was not getting a 200 shot even though it was jetted for 200
Last edited by AChotrod; 09-08-2011 at 03:24 PM.
09-08-2011, 03:15 PM
#37
Mike you need time at the track with that car which you do not have. There is no way you will figure it out in a day on a hot slick track.
There is also something going on if you can't make it thru the traps N/A with a 28"/4.10 setup. The car on spray should be able to get thru the traps based off your MPH.
The M/T DR is a tire which will be tough to make work on a stick car and would suggest a slick or Hoosier DR.
I am also surprised to hear Madman suggested the lower hole on LCA brackets with your car not being lowered. you sure he understood the car is at stock ride height? how did you set your pinion angle?
I plan to get some people together for a Sat or Sunday at Byron hopefully before the end of the month, so maybe I can get out sometime when you are at the track.
There is also something going on if you can't make it thru the traps N/A with a 28"/4.10 setup. The car on spray should be able to get thru the traps based off your MPH.
The M/T DR is a tire which will be tough to make work on a stick car and would suggest a slick or Hoosier DR.
I am also surprised to hear Madman suggested the lower hole on LCA brackets with your car not being lowered. you sure he understood the car is at stock ride height? how did you set your pinion angle?
I plan to get some people together for a Sat or Sunday at Byron hopefully before the end of the month, so maybe I can get out sometime when you are at the track.
09-08-2011, 03:27 PM
#38
09-08-2011, 03:32 PM
#39
Larry that would be great if I can get out of work. I did lower the front some and pulled the insulators on the rear Its about as low as you can go without the tires rubbing when they grow. The angle on the LCAs goes up towards the front from the rear like it should.
Im sure you can vouch it does have 4.10s, 28s, and the power is what I say it is. I dunno wtf happened the car used to run so good. Its not just the shootout either even on the QTPs I was having the same/similar issues last year.
Im sure you can vouch it does have 4.10s, 28s, and the power is what I say it is. I dunno wtf happened the car used to run so good. Its not just the shootout either even on the QTPs I was having the same/similar issues last year.
Last edited by AChotrod; 09-08-2011 at 03:37 PM.
09-08-2011, 03:53 PM
#40
cool
I know you stay busy with work, but again it is not going to happen in a day and can't base how it work on the street vs track. I bet you have not went to the track all year knowing you.
4.10/28" is a good all around combo, but will limit the amount of spray depending on MPH/RPM. I feel even a 26" tire should work N/A to get thru the traps if the car does still pull cleanly to 6800 rpm though you said it is out of rpm in 4th. I'm very confused on how that can be.
how are you determining rpm? stock tach. shift light ? is it on the limiter or possibly breaking up and you confused it for the limiter?
5th is not going to work well for you for a drag setup as I'm sure you know
DR's will grow very little unlike a slick / bias ply tire
I have my car, my dads, and many other cars low with 28's and have no issues.
how did you set the torque arm?
Larry that would be great if I can get out of work. I did lower the front some and pulled the insulators on the rear Its about as low as you can go without the tires rubbing when they grow. The angle on the LCAs goes up towards the front from the rear like it should.
Im sure you can vouch it does have 4.10s, 28s, and the power is what I say it is. I dunno wtf happened the car used to run so good. Its not just the shootout either even on the QTPs I was having the same/similar issues last year.
Im sure you can vouch it does have 4.10s, 28s, and the power is what I say it is. I dunno wtf happened the car used to run so good. Its not just the shootout either even on the QTPs I was having the same/similar issues last year.
4.10/28" is a good all around combo, but will limit the amount of spray depending on MPH/RPM. I feel even a 26" tire should work N/A to get thru the traps if the car does still pull cleanly to 6800 rpm though you said it is out of rpm in 4th. I'm very confused on how that can be.
how are you determining rpm? stock tach. shift light ? is it on the limiter or possibly breaking up and you confused it for the limiter?
5th is not going to work well for you for a drag setup as I'm sure you know
DR's will grow very little unlike a slick / bias ply tire
I have my car, my dads, and many other cars low with 28's and have no issues.
how did you set the torque arm?