OK So my T56 DR experiment first time out
#81
Well I didnt order the TA just a new bushing for now. If that doesnt get me where I need to be Ill order a TA or hope Speedinc has one in stock I can grab fri morn and put it on b4 I head out to RSD.
Also if Im reading the finder right Im at -6.5* right now correct???
Also if Im reading the finder right Im at -6.5* right now correct???
#83
So your subtracting instead of adding them? Which way is positive and which is negative on the finder?? In the BMR vid it says add the rear end number to the DS number to get your PA? Then he says both were negative while talking but the angle finder on the rear had the needle pointing to the back of the car and the on the DS pointing to the front of the car.? **** Im confused now.
http://www.bmrsuspension.com/index.c...d=0&videoid=14
http://www.bmrsuspension.com/index.c...d=0&videoid=14
#84
11 Second Club
iTrader: (5)
Throw the angle finder in the trash.
Go to sears and buy this - http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...u=00948295000P
It's got a magnetic base and makes it easy. Shows if it's going up hill or down hill.
No more guessing.
Go to sears and buy this - http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...u=00948295000P
It's got a magnetic base and makes it easy. Shows if it's going up hill or down hill.
No more guessing.
#86
I have a Thunderbolt 4g.
People have been using these things forever. I just need to make sure Im doing it right. Both the rear and DS seem neg to me since they angle up towards the front of the car. Then BMR says to add the two numbers. Thats how I came up with -6.5. Both readings were looking from the pass side. Is this not right?
https://ls1tech.com/forums/11216876-post11.html
People have been using these things forever. I just need to make sure Im doing it right. Both the rear and DS seem neg to me since they angle up towards the front of the car. Then BMR says to add the two numbers. Thats how I came up with -6.5. Both readings were looking from the pass side. Is this not right?
https://ls1tech.com/forums/11216876-post11.html
Last edited by AChotrod; 09-13-2011 at 09:09 PM.
#87
LS1TECH Sponsor
iTrader: (3)
I have a Thunderbolt 4g.
People have been using these things forever. I just need to make sure Im doing it right. Both the rear and DS seem neg to me since they angle up towards the front of the car. Then BMR says to add the two numbers. Thats how I came up with -6.5. Both readings were looking from the pass side. Is this not right?
https://ls1tech.com/forums/11216876-post11.html
People have been using these things forever. I just need to make sure Im doing it right. Both the rear and DS seem neg to me since they angle up towards the front of the car. Then BMR says to add the two numbers. Thats how I came up with -6.5. Both readings were looking from the pass side. Is this not right?
https://ls1tech.com/forums/11216876-post11.html
Jon
__________________
95 Pontiac Formula- Stock engine with ATI Procharger, Moser 12 bolt w/4:30 gears, Rossler trans, Neil Chance 4000 stall, M/T ET streets, 10.914@ 121.90mph, 1.452 60ft. GMHTP November 2010 Feature Car. Check it out at:
https://www.motortrend.com/features/...ebird-formula/
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=abZ1z...ature=youtu.be
95 Pontiac Formula- Stock engine with ATI Procharger, Moser 12 bolt w/4:30 gears, Rossler trans, Neil Chance 4000 stall, M/T ET streets, 10.914@ 121.90mph, 1.452 60ft. GMHTP November 2010 Feature Car. Check it out at:
https://www.motortrend.com/features/...ebird-formula/
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=abZ1z...ature=youtu.be
#91
I don't even measure the driveshaft angle when measuring the pinion angle. For the most part unless you drastically lower or raise the suspension, it doesnt matter for our cars. First you should do is level the chassis of the car. Then you can take the measurements without having to factor in for the ground not being lever. Then put the angle finder on the rear torque arm bracket and set it to 2 degrees downward towards the front of the car. This will make a slight v between the driveshaft and rearend.
You need to have the TA bushing installed to set it right. You don't want to adjust the pinion angle by moving the front mount because that will change the instant center. This is why you really need the adjustable TA. That way you can adjust both.
Did you check the driveshaft yoke when you were under there?
You need to have the TA bushing installed to set it right. You don't want to adjust the pinion angle by moving the front mount because that will change the instant center. This is why you really need the adjustable TA. That way you can adjust both.
Did you check the driveshaft yoke when you were under there?
#94
LS1Tech Co-Founder
iTrader: (34)
My A3 4.10 28x10.5 150 shot shift at 7k setup went 134 (maybe up to 137-138) and I still had room. Your clutch is slipping or something, you should be able to go well into the low 130's in 4th gear.
#95
I don't even measure the driveshaft angle when measuring the pinion angle. For the most part unless you drastically lower or raise the suspension, it doesnt matter for our cars. First you should do is level the chassis of the car. Then you can take the measurements without having to factor in for the ground not being lever. Then put the angle finder on the rear torque arm bracket and set it to 2 degrees downward towards the front of the car. This will make a slight v between the driveshaft and rearend.
You need to have the TA bushing installed to set it right. You don't want to adjust the pinion angle by moving the front mount because that will change the instant center. This is why you really need the adjustable TA. That way you can adjust both.
Did you check the driveshaft yoke when you were under there?
You need to have the TA bushing installed to set it right. You don't want to adjust the pinion angle by moving the front mount because that will change the instant center. This is why you really need the adjustable TA. That way you can adjust both.
Did you check the driveshaft yoke when you were under there?
Anyways The new bushing is in and I moved the TA to the bottom holes in the bracket.
Angle finder read 4 with the needle showing to the left of the 0 on the rear
and 1 with the needle showing to the left of the 0 on the DS.
#97
Most driveshaft companies will tell you to measure it that way also. Otherwise you'll get vibrations. One thing you do need to take into account though, is how level the car is. Most garages have some slope to them so that water cant come in the door. If you have say 2 degrees of pitch on the floor and set the TA at -2 it isnt going to work right. I would put the car on the ramps, then use a floor jack(or two) to level the chassis. Then set the TA to -2.
Putting the front of the TA that low will probably hurt you because the instant center will be lower,shorter.
Putting the front of the TA that low will probably hurt you because the instant center will be lower,shorter.
#98
Going to pick up a short length TA with DS loop now. Anyone want to buy a full length non adj TA and lakewood DSL? lol.
25th Would it really matter if the floor was 100% level if you use the DS & PA measurments? Wouldnt really matter as long as the Rear to DS formula came out neg 2?
355z thats what I thought also. Are we wrong here?
25th Would it really matter if the floor was 100% level if you use the DS & PA measurments? Wouldnt really matter as long as the Rear to DS formula came out neg 2?
355z thats what I thought also. Are we wrong here?