Drag Racing Tech
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:

Head studs or head bolts????

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 11-09-2011, 01:34 PM
  #1  
11 Second Club
Thread Starter
iTrader: (17)
 
AChotrod's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Chicago area
Posts: 9,896
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default Head studs or head bolts????

Getting ready to put my new motor together and Im debating weather to switch up to head studs over head bolts. Are studs that much better and can you actually pull a head with the engine in the car and our extra huge cowl with the studs?
Old 11-09-2011, 01:35 PM
  #2  
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (18)
 
TXsilverado's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Humble Texas
Posts: 15,713
Likes: 0
Received 7 Likes on 4 Posts

Default

if your na/nitrous bolts are fine. if you're running boost step up to the studs.
Old 11-09-2011, 02:56 PM
  #3  
9 Second Club
iTrader: (31)
 
tim99ws6's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Nashville, TN
Posts: 3,175
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by TXsilverado
if your na/nitrous bolts are fine. if you're running boost step up to the studs.
Cylinder pressure is cylinder pressure. Head studs always win over head bolts IMO
Old 11-09-2011, 02:58 PM
  #4  
6 & 8 Second Club
 
mrdragster1970's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Illinois, RT 66 dragway area
Posts: 2,284
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

.

Studs have always given a better, more consistent clamping force!!

.
Old 11-09-2011, 04:11 PM
  #5  
11 Second Club
Thread Starter
iTrader: (17)
 
AChotrod's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Chicago area
Posts: 9,896
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Alrighty then gonna order up some studs to replace my bolts and hope I dont blow a gasket anytime soon.
Old 11-09-2011, 06:24 PM
  #6  
8 Second Club
iTrader: (4)
 
Tony Shepherd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Round Rock TX
Posts: 2,913
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts

Default

Hit me up before you install them. I know the trick to keep them from leaking.
Old 11-09-2011, 06:43 PM
  #7  
TECH Resident
iTrader: (3)
 
krissoto's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Bonne Terre, MO
Posts: 863
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Tony Shepherd
Hit me up before you install them. I know the trick to keep them from leaking.
WTH, no secrets necessary here. JK, please share the knowledge tho
Old 11-09-2011, 09:02 PM
  #8  
11 Second Club
Thread Starter
iTrader: (17)
 
AChotrod's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Chicago area
Posts: 9,896
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Lol Its a LT1
Will do Tony!!!!!!!
Old 11-10-2011, 06:37 AM
  #9  
Internet Mechanic
iTrader: (17)
 
BlackScreaminMachine's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Wallingford CT
Posts: 9,831
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts

Default

Ran ARP bolts for years, no issues, on the 383, just goop them and go. Never ran studs as of the PITA to try to get the heads on and off all the time if the need be it. Just did not want to deal with it.
Old 11-10-2011, 07:54 AM
  #10  
Race your car!
iTrader: (50)
 
JL ws-6's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 15,420
Likes: 0
Received 18 Likes on 18 Posts

Default

I wouldn't waste the money on bolts. Just put studs in it and call it a day. At least you know that they won't be something that you wonder about... if you start having head gasket issues.
Old 11-10-2011, 07:57 AM
  #11  
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (5)
 
samckitt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Williamsburg, VA
Posts: 514
Received 7 Likes on 6 Posts

Default

If it is going in an aluminum block, I would definitely go studs, that lessens the chance of stripping out the threads in the block.
Old 11-10-2011, 08:00 AM
  #12  
Race your car!
iTrader: (50)
 
JL ws-6's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 15,420
Likes: 0
Received 18 Likes on 18 Posts

Default

And when you pull the heads you don't have to clean the holes out, and worry about water/coolant being in the holes... and then you putting the bolt in there, and unknowingly cracking the block (liquid won't compress.. and the force will crack a block if you don't get the holes 100% dry. Seen that happen before)
Old 11-10-2011, 08:19 AM
  #13  
Internet Mechanic
iTrader: (17)
 
BlackScreaminMachine's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Wallingford CT
Posts: 9,831
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by JL ws-6
And when you pull the heads you don't have to clean the holes out, and worry about water/coolant being in the holes... and then you putting the bolt in there, and unknowingly cracking the block (liquid won't compress.. and the force will crack a block if you don't get the holes 100% dry. Seen that happen before)
And that was the only reason I would go to studs, just to avoid even the possibities if doing that IF the heads needed to come off multiple times.
Old 11-10-2011, 10:58 AM
  #14  
Race your car!
iTrader: (50)
 
JL ws-6's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 15,420
Likes: 0
Received 18 Likes on 18 Posts

Default

The clamping ability of the stud, is also alot better and they are reusable, quite a few times more then a bolt is... the cost vs return just in the ability to reuse them over bolts makes it worth while.

Removing the heads on any small block in an ls engine bay is not a problem with studs.
Old 11-10-2011, 01:05 PM
  #15  
6 & 8 Second Club
 
mrdragster1970's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Illinois, RT 66 dragway area
Posts: 2,284
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

.

Excellent tip on hydraulicing the hole and cracking, I should have mentioned that.
That is something I always worry about and warn people with bolts.


.
Old 11-11-2011, 02:16 PM
  #16  
11 Second Club
Thread Starter
iTrader: (17)
 
AChotrod's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Chicago area
Posts: 9,896
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

I have ARP bolts on my 355 I was going to just reuse but I ordered studs for the new 383 anyways.
This is a iron LT1 engine. Most of the head bolt holes go into the water jackets except the top 4 so cracking the block do to water being in there really isnt an issue.
Old 11-11-2011, 05:09 PM
  #17  
6 & 8 Second Club
 
mrdragster1970's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Illinois, RT 66 dragway area
Posts: 2,284
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

.

It's not the water that causes a crack in the block, it's guys that use too much oil or moly.


.
Old 11-12-2011, 12:35 PM
  #18  
11 Second Club
Thread Starter
iTrader: (17)
 
AChotrod's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Chicago area
Posts: 9,896
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Got it. I use ARP Torque assm lube on the treads that dont hit water and tread sealant on the ones that go into water.




All times are GMT -5. The time now is 01:49 PM.