K member/manual rack to clear kooks
11-19-2011, 03:52 PM
#1
K member/manual rack to clear kooks Im looking for a tubular k member and manual rack setup with the steering that will clear my kooks headers, the problem i think may be that they are 1 1/78 stepped to 2 with the 3.5 collectors, pretty big. Let me know what setup will clear and bolt up easily without having to modify the header to clear the steering shaft, or an easy fix. Thanks fellas
11-19-2011, 05:15 PM
#3
11-20-2011, 08:30 PM
#7
The burkhart setup will fit. You can, have Chuck send you the steering shaft in pieces and then you can cut/mock it up to fit your car... I did it this way and had a TON of clearance around the same headers you have, motor was solid mounted in the stock position on a motor plate fwiw as well.
I did order the front end from them, and it took 3 weeks to get the whole thing shipped to me... it would have been a week but they were waiting on their powdercoating guy... nothing they could do about that.
I had mone built to narrow the front end 1 inch per side, and I used a 3rd gen brake on their spindle as well, which saved a bunch of $ and the spindles saved a TON of weight over the stock cast iron chunks.
I did order the front end from them, and it took 3 weeks to get the whole thing shipped to me... it would have been a week but they were waiting on their powdercoating guy... nothing they could do about that.
I had mone built to narrow the front end 1 inch per side, and I used a 3rd gen brake on their spindle as well, which saved a bunch of $ and the spindles saved a TON of weight over the stock cast iron chunks.
Trending Topics
11-20-2011, 08:30 PM
#8
I have the burkhart bolt in. I posted some pics, its mounts low and forward and has room for my 1 7/8 ARH. I think it has a lot of room really. Check out the pics.
I still havnt goten all the bumpstreet out if it with the front end up. I spaced the ends on the sterring arms dowm all the way, and it a little better. I got a PM form someone on YB that didn't like theirs either and had the same thing. And had to space the rack up more on a bunch of washer. I'm gona do that over the winter or make some spacers if it has to go up alot.
I still havnt goten all the bumpstreet out if it with the front end up. I spaced the ends on the sterring arms dowm all the way, and it a little better. I got a PM form someone on YB that didn't like theirs either and had the same thing. And had to space the rack up more on a bunch of washer. I'm gona do that over the winter or make some spacers if it has to go up alot.
11-20-2011, 08:37 PM
#9
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y11...1010111616.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y11...n/IMAG0324.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y11...n/IMAG0323.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y11...n/IMAG0322.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y11...n/IMAG0320.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y11...n/IMAG0319.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y11...n/IMAG0318.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y11...n/IMAG0316.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y11...n/IMAG0315.jpg
Also note it will not bolt to stock spindles, only comes with a bolt and no taper end hardwear. And the steering shaft came raw with no paint or plating, and the U joints are unselded ones. That Are list as light duty and not for street use. Some local good chassie guys said there gone wear out is a few years, And I drive in the rain so alot sooner. I was gona make a dust boot for them or change them to the better sealed styled. If the get slop in them, I'll have to cut them out. I was told the ones with the orange boots are really nice, a brighter orange I think form bickle or MW?
http://www.rjracecars.com/3-and-4-x-...-Prodview.html
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y11...n/IMAG0324.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y11...n/IMAG0323.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y11...n/IMAG0322.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y11...n/IMAG0320.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y11...n/IMAG0319.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y11...n/IMAG0318.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y11...n/IMAG0316.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y11...n/IMAG0315.jpg
Also note it will not bolt to stock spindles, only comes with a bolt and no taper end hardwear. And the steering shaft came raw with no paint or plating, and the U joints are unselded ones. That Are list as light duty and not for street use. Some local good chassie guys said there gone wear out is a few years, And I drive in the rain so alot sooner. I was gona make a dust boot for them or change them to the better sealed styled. If the get slop in them, I'll have to cut them out. I was told the ones with the orange boots are really nice, a brighter orange I think form bickle or MW?
http://www.rjracecars.com/3-and-4-x-...-Prodview.html
11-20-2011, 08:49 PM
#10
The orange boot type you are talking about are the military grade ones and they are a very nice piece. The Burkhart stuff.. is race car parts that aren't really intended for street duty.
I'm sure that they told you that when you bought it though, it's not like it's advertised to be a street car thing.
I bought their setup becuase I wanted the pan clearance for something other then the LS motor, and it was built to do just that... the rack mount is right on the cross bar, as it's a good bit further forward then normal for this reason.
If you keep the steering ujoints lubed well and just paint the steering shaft it will hold up pretty well for a while I'm sure. But, if it's something that bothers you, I would have called Chuck about it, see if he couldn't have worked something out with you. I had the issue of the steering shaft not clearing the headers, and he sent me another one that I was able to assemble (extend the column via the steering shaft) downwards some, getting it out of the way.
It won't matter now as I'll be building a forward facing header for the bbc when it's done and I'm sure I will be redoing that steering shaft to get it out of the way, but that's my own fault.
I'm sure that they told you that when you bought it though, it's not like it's advertised to be a street car thing.
I bought their setup becuase I wanted the pan clearance for something other then the LS motor, and it was built to do just that... the rack mount is right on the cross bar, as it's a good bit further forward then normal for this reason.
If you keep the steering ujoints lubed well and just paint the steering shaft it will hold up pretty well for a while I'm sure. But, if it's something that bothers you, I would have called Chuck about it, see if he couldn't have worked something out with you. I had the issue of the steering shaft not clearing the headers, and he sent me another one that I was able to assemble (extend the column via the steering shaft) downwards some, getting it out of the way.
It won't matter now as I'll be building a forward facing header for the bbc when it's done and I'm sure I will be redoing that steering shaft to get it out of the way, but that's my own fault.
