71 chevy

iTrader: (18)

im looking at this mainly as a way to cool the motor between rounds, and $89 sounds a lot better than $600 for an electric water pump

http://www.popularhotrodding.com/tec.../photo_11.html





my question is does anyone know how well this does vs driving the pump with the belt??? im running a pro stock radiator and the engine gets to 195-200 degrees staging, im wondering how this would compare to the stock water pump at idle.

if anyone has any experience with these, i would appreciate it

ctjohns

iTrader: (10)

I used one on different engines over the years and have found it works pretty decent. From mild sbc to 900 hp 540. It tends to run slower so the radiator can pull the heat out better. Pulls less juice than big dollar bolt on water pumps in my opinion...I've forgot about it and let it run awhile and still good to go. If interested, I have one with little use on it. I now use the engine mount electric pump, go figure, came on new engine. what I liked is you can see it moving, cant on other pumps!

deerslayinrednek

iTrader: (8)

how would you put the pulley on an ls water pump? what holds the stock pulley on there?....I like the idea of this thing.

mrdragster1970

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My crew chief has used one on his 496" BBC for 15+ years.
He even street drives it once in a great while.
He likes it, also because he's cheap and can't afford a fancy model.

I would use a $200-250 self contained myself, before using these.

.

xpndbl3

iTrader: (23)

no a ls1 electric water pump is a lot more than $250, think some are in the $600 range.

71 chevy

iTrader: (18)

my stock pulley is bolted on and i think the bolts will line up. may need to open up to center hole a little bit to make sure it is correctly centered

71 chevy

iTrader: (18)

cheapest option ive seen for ls1 is $400+

mrdragster1970

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Not what I meant, I would prefer a self contained, but they are much cheaper then your model.
I was talking about we are lucky compared to a LS models cost, that why I said "myself".
The problem with these are they are lower volume, and in some applications don't move enough water.
Bang for the buck, these work, like I said, my buddy has used the same one for 15 years.


.

71 chevy

iTrader: (18)

ahh thanks for the clarification. ive decided to try it. with my small radiator, i typically pick up 40 degrees from starting the car to going to do a run. leaving at 160, i would stage at 190s.

if i can run the pump and fan between rounds and get it to 100, i should be able to stage around 150.

TurboStangJON

iTrader: (27)

I used one of these on a SBF for a couple of years. It worked pretty well as long as I had a couple of minutes to cool down between runs.

71 chevy

iTrader: (18)

did you turn it off to make the pass, or keep it on?

MikeFSKSpeed

iTrader: (37)

I keep those in stock, Havent used it on an LS but plenty of sales for BBC,SBC, SBF and have had great luck with them.

TurboStangJON

iTrader: (27)

I kept it on during the run because when I didn't the motor got hot. However, that was with a stock radiator with a crappy unshrouded pep-boys electric fan.

71 chevy

iTrader: (18)

update:

installed this. total cost was 95 bucks. can get it from 180 to 100 degrees in less than 4 minutes

deerslayinrednek

iTrader: (8)

pics? does it keep it cool on the street? what about hot lapping?

06X6spdGTO

iTrader: (6)

Doing the same thing this weekend! Post pics please!

Did you run your setup with a gutted thermostat housing? Did u cut the edges of the stock water pump pulley off and just bolted the moroso pulley to the 4 open holes in the stock water pump pulley? more info on this please!

71 chevy

iTrader: (18)

sorry, no street driving so i cant help there. it will work hotlapping. it can drop 50 degrees in one to two minutes and thats with a chintzy $25 12" fan and scirroco radiator.

with a big fan and radiator, you can probably hotlap it till you ran out of fuel

i run a gutted thermostat housing. i have one of the bolt on pulleys,not a press on, like in this pic


. i took it off(ie unbolted the stock pulley),

ground down some of the mount(with the 4 holes) so the moroso pulley would fit over it

used a step drill to open up the hole in the moroso pulley to just slide over the waterpump snout

, then held it down with an m30 x 1.5 nut. use a jam nut because a regular nut is too big and will have to be cut down.

the pump is mounted to my motor plate with two 5 inch long bolts, although, i think it can be mounted with one bolt no problem like the 2nd pic in my first post. the belt is hella loose and i wanna say that one bolt, mounted to the pump itself would be sufficient

for ls1, red wire on pump goes to ground, and black goes to power, for reverse rotation

http://www.flickr.com/photos/67963546@N07/7069453757/http://www.flickr.com/photos/67963546@N07/7069453757/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/67963546@N07/, on Flickr

06X6spdGTO

iTrader: (6)

figured the reverse rotation part out, I will see what I can get figured out. Pretty sure my LQ9 is a press fit pulley

Thanks for the info on the thermostat, I didnt know if a guy should at least put a washer in there to slow the flow down or if it would work gutted out with no restrictions.

71 chevy

iTrader: (18)

no problem man.

Big Al

iTrader: (1)

We made ours, but we have a four winged fan blade on it to pull a little air through the radiator between rounds. Our car is 600 CI and has a small radiator. At the end of the day we have to help it with a spray bottle, but it does work.

Al 95 Z28