00blacka4

iTrader: (7)

i got an optima yellow for battary relocation and i was wondering can i even use this battary in my car, i know alot of people use the reds but i got a good deal on this one. Is it going to hurt anything ? a guy i talked to said it will be hard on all the elctronics but i have no clue., thanks

custm2500

iTrader: (11)

The guy you talked to is a ******* retarded idiot!
You will have absolutly no issues and there is no intelegent reason to use a red top over a yellow. The yellow is a deep cycle that has all the starting power of the red. You will be just fine and not have any issues caused by the battery.

00blacka4

iTrader: (7)

yeah, i was thinking the same thing, but nobody likes a shadow of doubt...i even called optima and listened to their description of the yellowtop and they said it was for vehicles with demanding electrical needs im thinkin it might be better for my fuel pump, electric waterpump, ect ect anyway...also im doing a battary relocation and was going to run 0 guage welding cable to the rear, then my buddy said run like a 6 guage cable back to the starter or something ? is that how you guys did it

y2k_ta

iTrader: (80)

I hope you have better luck with yours. I've owned both a Red & Yellow at different times, and neither lasted very long. Now my run-of-the-mill AutoZone batteries have done me quite well.

Doug G

You'll be fine with the yellow....Red's been fine in mine

6 guage isn't gonna work....unless it's from the alternator to battery (8ga. minimum). Use 0 guage (or welding cable) from battery to disconnect and starter.

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

I'd use welding cable to ground the battery in the back, then welding cable up to the front where the starter and fuse box is.

You are going to need a 6 ga cable off the ALT, to feed power back to the battery to charge it... it needs to be hooked to the battery, so that when the push/pull is hit no power can reach the fuse box.

To be legal, you have to have a solenoid/relay to break that connection when the car's push/pull gets hit. This probably won't be checked, but it is supposed to be there.

Another thing you can do, is if you have a hotwire setup, run the hot wire to the push/pull so that when that's killed it kills the power to the fuel pump. This will insure that the fuel pump loses power in the event it has to be hit, so you know the car won't stay running or pumping fuel, in the event of a fire. Plus it's one less wire running up the length of the car.

The wire from the ALT to the battery, fuse that too with a 200 amp fuse, in case it ever shorts out the fuse will pop, I put one right in the battery box on that wire so there was no concern of that ever causing a problem if it shorts out (fuse pops and battery won't feed the short causing a fire)

As for a yellow top battery hurting electronics, whoever told you that needs their head examined. Battery current, is battery current. The electronics don't know where it's coming from, it's a current source, that operates at 12 volts and is coming from a battery, so there's no frequency, etc ... that's all the electronics are going to see.

355z28

iTrader: (8)

I take everything you say and use it because you seem to have a ton of knowledge. I'm curious why you said 6ga, will it carry the amps the alternator puts out? I mean 4 ga welding cable is usually rated around 140-150 maximum amps and a GM lt1 alternator puts out 150amps. So 6ga may be good for 100 amps. Maybe this is okay since the factory LS alternator is 102A?

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

I ran 6 ga and it was o.k, never had an issue with it. The underdrive pulley probably takes a few amps of the alt's ability away, so I would think it will be o.k.

Kingc8r

iTrader: (21)

I've had the same yellowtop in my car since 2007. You should be fine

96lt1m6

iTrader: (31)

I replaced my yellow top 8 months ago after 8 years of service.. I did own a red top but it barely lasted 2 years.