1nastyss

iTrader: (12)

Do u have to run the O-ring an fittings or can u just run the standard an fittings ?

427

iTrader: (3)

I got mine directly from Moroso, not sure on the pricing. I will try and find out.

Kurt

studderin

iTrader: (28)

Got the pan the other day, looks really nice, very nice welds for a stock production part anyone can order and get in a few days. And there made in the USA The rail was a little wavy around the -10 an fitting for the oil filter. I got most of the straiten out with some heavy filing, and block sanding.
Going with the one 90* and one 45* fitting in the way to go, there really close to touching, no pushing on or anything. But you can put the 90 inward tight so the hose in close into the pan, and keep the 45 strait and it has space between them. Not sure what tighter then 90, but if someone made a 120* or something that would work good to, then you can run the top line up along the block. or you could run 2 90* if you got a AN Spacer fitting, like a 1inch if then even make them?

Order the oil filter stuff from Jerry Bickle earlier in then week too. Got the CV billet oil filter housing, and 2 -10AN #12ORB (-12 port fitting to -10AN). And a -12port plug (12ORB plug)

csjta2

iTrader: (43)

I used this on one of the fittings at the pan, it offsets one and makes it easier routing the hoses

http://mrparts.com.au/index.php?rout...roduct_id=2900

1nastyss

iTrader: (12)

I like that , good find

studderin

iTrader: (28)

thats a cool fitting,
that would work great with the milodon oil filter line kit, on this pan

studderin

iTrader: (28)

pan takes 8 qts to get in the middle of the full mark with 30" -10 lines and the bigger 1060 filter. Do you run that or just put 6 in and run the level lower?

studderin

iTrader: (28)

I htink this pan is blowing the dipstick out.

One of the louvers in the windage tray is right across form the tube opening???
anyone have that happen. W T F???
https://ls1tech.com/forums/drag-raci...h-diet-44.html

pewter 01 SS

iTrader: (5)

did you figure this out, i just tried putting my dipstick in and wont even go into it at all. i tried searching online and cant find anything.

thnx.

Slowhawk

iTrader: (12)

When you put the windage part on the crank you have to clearance it for the dipstick.Just did one the other day.

pewter 01 SS

iTrader: (5)

Damn that sucks, have to take it apart.

When you say clearance do you mean a hole or bend the windage? You wouldn't have a picture of what you did to it?

studderin

iTrader: (28)

i got mine over a year ago, the 1st oil pans sold they didn't have the side brace of the pickup arm. So they added that, but then cutout in the windage tray was still the old size so the side brace hits. So you have to grind it a little there, same for the dipstick. I posted pics of that. whey you put the tray on you should put the dipstick in and look how it passes the tray, good to do with any oil pan. But look at the pic I took ther is a lover that lines up with the bottem of the tube. I have having oil get cut for the lover and the crank thows it UP the dipstick. so much WOT after 4-5secs it was pulsing the oil 4-5 feet up over the motor when I put a clear tube over the stock dipstick tube to extend it to see it better how the stock dipstick keep getting pushed out and a huge oil mess under the hood. That was after the engine leaked down fine and I spend a ton on time looking into WTF was going on checking every seal. pvc, catchcan, system hoping it was somthing stupid/easy or somehow I was getting it to leak fine, but it was hurt and I was in the my ***** blow up denial. haha. Did it like 3 times, 7 is down a little but its normal. my car always has stupid **** like that happen. The tray is for a 4.2 crank or something moroso says and its way away for my stock junk. I'm going to get the tray closer, but was also looking at the improved racing crank scraper. But for the morso tray Im going to weld a little ear or somthing to block the end of the dipstick, but Im going to a better sealing dipstick anyway so will deal with that. But if I didnt grind away the metal for the notch for the stock dipstick to clear I would and could have used that metal to make a little ramp to shot the oil down for the tube opening. Drill 2 little holes like 3/4 form the end of the tray. And cut slots to the holes, I was space it for a little creanst wrench would fit to bend the little ramp. You have have to drill the holes so it dosnt crack, don't just cut slots. I havnt done it, but thats what I would do. I would also look into bending the dipstick but it dodnt look like your going to bend it enogh, not sure on that.




https://ls1tech.com/forums/drag-raci...h-diet-43.html

pewter 01 SS

iTrader: (5)

weird, i bought mine about 4-5 yrs ago, had the car sitting finally have time to work on it and this happens. i talked to tech today and they said the pan was designed for LS2 c6 which makes no sense unless i gave them the wrong model pan which i think this is a 21150. according to tech of moroso i need to buy a c6 dip stick model 12570787 and that will clear the windage. So my smart *** bend the stock tub to be similar to the one they said would work which i found a picture on google. The 6.2 pick up tube is more straight so i bend it the same way as the picture and it did go in, im not sure if it matters what way the tube goes ones in the pan. the tube wont bolt because of how i bend the it but i feel like buying what they said and see if it does work, beats having to drop the pan.

Slowhawk

iTrader: (12)

Just needs a slight bend as shown and some cutting/bending near the pickup mount. I was just lucky because we left the dipstick in the motor while changing. Might not catch it with it out.

DHR Darren

iTrader: (1)

So where do you pull your oil from for your turbo feeds with this pan...???

studderin

iTrader: (28)

dont think you will pull oil off the pan. get a goos oil filter mount like the CV and it has a 1/4 npt and a spare ORB (3 you only use 1in 1 out)

I forgot but one night at newera I rounded up all the dip and wands I could find and took a pic of the tube length and the wand lenths in a block . GM has like 10 different setups so you can get somthing alot better then the 4th gen that is to short. I switched to the moroso 1/4 turn stick with s compression fitting on the tube to set the depth and to seal it 100% for pulling vacum. The gen3 wands have 1 0 ring most of the gen4 have 2 i noticed.


some good info on oil pans.... you can never have to much oil pan volume, you pretty much get the free hp having more volume under the pumping engine, remember you have the same cubes under the pistons. LSnext setup really helps on that. if you dont use those stupid rail spacers. and keep the as far away form the crank as you can, this goes with the pan size for packaging but look at EM take the max depth of 12" if you have time to do.


another thing that improved racing scraper works. gained more on a cam LS3 then a fast setup. did it back to back on the dyno. put the scaper under the windage tray, the tray keep the oil form getting whipped back up.

Zmg00camaross

iTrader: (11)

Cool info on the crank scraper!

Ego Killer

iTrader: (147)

Whet are you guys mounting your filters and what filter are you running?

JakeFusion

iTrader: (7)

Digging this up... if you go this route should you have a Melling 10295 or 10296 oil pump? Do you need the extra flow with a remote oil filter kit?

Paul Bell

iTrader: (9)

I would say yes.