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Track only rim/tire choices?

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Old 10-12-2012, 05:14 PM
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Default Track only rim/tire choices?

For next year I'm planning to hit the track more and I'd like to cut a bunch of weight off my rims and get some stickier tires to go with them. I'm currently using some 17X11 ZR1's from oewheels with 315/35/17 toyo proxes tq drag radials.

For my new setup I'm thinking of running a full slick and a 15" rim of some kind. I've seen a few posts suggesting a stiff sidewall being ideal for my car (M6 ~#3600 race weight making 390 to the wheels). I think I should stick with a 26" tire since I'm not running out of gear on the back end. Any recommendations on what tires to try first? Also wondering what rims would be able to shed a good amount of weight compared to what I have now without breaking the bank? Prostar's seem pretty popular on here, anything else in roughly that price range?

Thanks for any insight,

Eric
Old 10-12-2012, 06:10 PM
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Pro-Stars and Draglites are the cheapest wheels you can get that are extremely light. They will run you around $165ish for fronts and $225ish for rears. There are lighter wheels out there but they will be around $300-$475 for fronts and $475+ for rears, and they will only be 1lb-2bs lighter. One of the best investments you can make is in a good front tire. A Moroso DS-2 or a Hoosier or M/T front runner (bias-ply) will weigh around 9lbs. A typical 165/85r/15 skinny radial that guys use for street fronts will weigh around 17-18lbs.

My Holeshot front wheel with a Moroso DS-2 weighs right at 18lbs.



My Weld Draglite with radial 165/85r/15 weighs right around 27.5lbs



The special lug nuts you need for running Draglites and Pro-Stars are very heavy.
Old 10-12-2012, 07:41 PM
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Billet Specialties Street lights are a fantastic bargain and extremely light.
Old 10-12-2012, 08:08 PM
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With the Weld rims did you need to Grind down the rear calipers at all?

Also worth noting that I have a C5 brake conversion for the fronts, (rotors and C5 calipers) I'm guessing I'll need to run a spacer to clear compared to your avg Fbody?
Old 10-12-2012, 08:36 PM
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Originally Posted by fly boy_1
With the Weld rims did you need to Grind down the rear calipers at all?

Also worth noting that I have a C5 brake conversion for the fronts, (rotors and C5 calipers) I'm guessing I'll need to run a spacer to clear compared to your avg Fbody?
Yes, but it's not too hard. A simple harbor freight grinder and 5 minutes per side. I have to run a spacer in the front as well. I don't recall exactly how thick it is though, maybe 1/4"
Old 10-28-2012, 09:24 AM
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I would run as tall a tire as possible. At least a 28". Perfer a 30".
Old 10-28-2012, 09:38 AM
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Race stars no grinding and there light. I'd keep an eye out in the classifieds theres always deals in there on drag wheels
Jay

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Last edited by Mustang Hat'r 2; 10-28-2012 at 11:15 AM.
Old 10-28-2012, 10:31 AM
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2nd on the racestars, I have the darkstars and they are awesome! light as anything else and I paid $820 shipped for rims, center caps, and lug nuts brand new.

26" stiff wall slick will be fine
Old 10-28-2012, 11:39 AM
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I run Greg Weld wheels (now Racestars) on mine. They are pretty light and not too expensive. Definently stick with a 26 if you are not running out of rpm at the end of the track. They will be less forgiving on the launch than a 28, but unless you put in a different gear, you will be giving up ET on the top end.



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