6.99's Build
12-29-2012, 05:30 PM
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6.99's Build Thought I would start a little build thread for the TA. I always like to document the crap I do so I'll share it as well.
Bought the car for $2950, Added rims and tires, gauges, and am taking a bunch of weight out and adding some parts. It already had all the hvac etc removed, and also had a Circle D 4C stall.
This summer I took it to the local 1/8th mile drag strip, and ran this :
60' 1.752
330' 5.235
ET 8.125
MPH 87.02
Had a hard time hooking, and this was just a test and tune day. For the first time to a track I sure did have fun. I will obviously need a LOT more seat time to get even close to "good", but i'll get there.
To help with traction I got some relocation brackets for the rear, and started taking a bunch of weight out.
Took off power steering and installed a Rack Doctor converted rack. Steers easy for me with the runners up front.
Took off everything I didn't need up front, and from underneath.
Added a line lock to help get the tires hot. Flaring the line down there was not as bad as people made it out to be. Just take you time and do it right.
Here's what it looks like now. I also took a bunch of plastic **** off of the front end too:
Bought the car for $2950, Added rims and tires, gauges, and am taking a bunch of weight out and adding some parts. It already had all the hvac etc removed, and also had a Circle D 4C stall.
This summer I took it to the local 1/8th mile drag strip, and ran this :
60' 1.752
330' 5.235
ET 8.125
MPH 87.02
Had a hard time hooking, and this was just a test and tune day. For the first time to a track I sure did have fun. I will obviously need a LOT more seat time to get even close to "good", but i'll get there.
To help with traction I got some relocation brackets for the rear, and started taking a bunch of weight out.
Took off power steering and installed a Rack Doctor converted rack. Steers easy for me with the runners up front.
Took off everything I didn't need up front, and from underneath.
Added a line lock to help get the tires hot. Flaring the line down there was not as bad as people made it out to be. Just take you time and do it right.
Here's what it looks like now. I also took a bunch of plastic **** off of the front end too:
Last edited by 89ROC-Z; 12-29-2012 at 05:42 PM.
12-29-2012, 05:38 PM
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Weighed the car and it came in at 3180!! Happy with that weight but not happy at all with the times, so now I'm doing the following:
-Getting Strange SA coilovers for the front
-MWC short torque arm
-MWC front bumper brace (should remove even more weight)
-Founders double adj. LCA's
-Cam from Tick, most likely the Polluter V2
-Cheap but safe/effective wet kit
-Ebay 1.75 headers dumped
-3.5" PST shaft
-Good Tune
Hopefully I can get down to a 7.5 with the cam, and will spray what I need to to get a 6.99.
Also going to move the battery to the back just for future plans as well. This all look right to you? My dad's an electrician and said that 2g should be plenty since it's a stock compression motor.
-Getting Strange SA coilovers for the front
-MWC short torque arm
-MWC front bumper brace (should remove even more weight)
-Founders double adj. LCA's
-Cam from Tick, most likely the Polluter V2
-Cheap but safe/effective wet kit
-Ebay 1.75 headers dumped
-3.5" PST shaft
-Good Tune
Hopefully I can get down to a 7.5 with the cam, and will spray what I need to to get a 6.99.
Also going to move the battery to the back just for future plans as well. This all look right to you? My dad's an electrician and said that 2g should be plenty since it's a stock compression motor.
12-29-2012, 06:28 PM
#3
I like this thread! Subscribed! I am trying to do the same goal as you, except just a HAIR different. My goal is to get my car to 6.99 normally aspirated, and hopefully have my sixty foot at the most a low 1.6. Hopefully 1.5's.
I have done my battery relocation on my car already, so there is a couple of things I can tell you about that. I actually used 4 gauge subwoofer wire from a local stereo shop. I think it is good, because it is a thick and shielded wire, but on the other hand it is kind of not so good because it is not designed for under hood temps, so I had to pretty much wrap all of the under hood wire with Earl's Flame guard material, which can get fairly expensive.
I don't have a kill switch on mine yet unfortunately. They bitched at me pretty good at the track about that, and it is NEXT on my list to do to the car. I would probably put your kill switch right off the positive of the battery though, some people say that with where you have it, the alternator can power the car. Just a thought I guess.
Also, I suppose your seat belt spot is a good ground spot, but I actually found an even better one! The STOCK ground cable for our cars is pretty much a Y-cable. Off of the negative terminal comes one smaller gauge wire and one larger gauge wire. With the battery in the spare tire spot in my car, I connected the smaller gauge wire to my power antenna mounting spot. Which is pretty much a body ground, and then I ran the other longer and larger gauge wire under the battery, out a factory hole in the floor, and DIRECTLY attached it to the frame spot right there. There was a threaded hole for I think where a muffler hanger usually is, but I don't run my exhaust all the way to the back of the car, so I was ok.
Here is a quick video of my run. I am not sure which run this was, but I did a best of 7.84@91mph that day. Best suxty foot I could get was only a 1.85.
7.84@91mph 370ci LQ9 6 speed
I am hoping with a really low 1.6 or 1.5 and maybe 2ph more on trap speed, I could maybe hit 6.99 or better. I am currently doing a TH400 a circle D 5K spragless swap on the car, and that should help the sixty tremendously. I was still a 6 speed in that video, and I just got sick of it. I love DDing manuals, but I would love to have a stalled TH400 at the track.
Good luck with your build, and also I sent you a PM about something. Laters,
Jordan
I have done my battery relocation on my car already, so there is a couple of things I can tell you about that. I actually used 4 gauge subwoofer wire from a local stereo shop. I think it is good, because it is a thick and shielded wire, but on the other hand it is kind of not so good because it is not designed for under hood temps, so I had to pretty much wrap all of the under hood wire with Earl's Flame guard material, which can get fairly expensive.
I don't have a kill switch on mine yet unfortunately. They bitched at me pretty good at the track about that, and it is NEXT on my list to do to the car. I would probably put your kill switch right off the positive of the battery though, some people say that with where you have it, the alternator can power the car. Just a thought I guess.
Also, I suppose your seat belt spot is a good ground spot, but I actually found an even better one! The STOCK ground cable for our cars is pretty much a Y-cable. Off of the negative terminal comes one smaller gauge wire and one larger gauge wire. With the battery in the spare tire spot in my car, I connected the smaller gauge wire to my power antenna mounting spot. Which is pretty much a body ground, and then I ran the other longer and larger gauge wire under the battery, out a factory hole in the floor, and DIRECTLY attached it to the frame spot right there. There was a threaded hole for I think where a muffler hanger usually is, but I don't run my exhaust all the way to the back of the car, so I was ok.
Here is a quick video of my run. I am not sure which run this was, but I did a best of 7.84@91mph that day. Best suxty foot I could get was only a 1.85.
7.84@91mph 370ci LQ9 6 speed
I am hoping with a really low 1.6 or 1.5 and maybe 2ph more on trap speed, I could maybe hit 6.99 or better. I am currently doing a TH400 a circle D 5K spragless swap on the car, and that should help the sixty tremendously. I was still a 6 speed in that video, and I just got sick of it. I love DDing manuals, but I would love to have a stalled TH400 at the track.
Good luck with your build, and also I sent you a PM about something. Laters,
Jordan
12-29-2012, 07:25 PM
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your goal shouldnt be that hard at all!!!! I went 7.10s with just a worn out vig 3600 converter, lid, tune, '02 exhaust manifolds(ported), no cats and a cut out with a 100 shot. I was on slicks and skinnies also. @ a 36XX or maybe 3700lbs race weight.. the car weighed 3420 I know but I forget what I weighed back then.
That 60ft needs some improvements for sure. Get it hookin and the mods you have planned shouldnt be a problem to puttin the car in the 6s.
a buddy of mine has an ss with a TR Trak cam, PRC stage I ls heads, fast 92mm intake, headers and the regular bolt ons. an SS4000 converter, 12 bolt w/ 4.10s and some weight reduction, the car is probably 3550 with him in it(he a big fella too) and he has been 7.0's on motor and I think 6.60s on a 75 or 100 shot.
That 60ft needs some improvements for sure. Get it hookin and the mods you have planned shouldnt be a problem to puttin the car in the 6s.
a buddy of mine has an ss with a TR Trak cam, PRC stage I ls heads, fast 92mm intake, headers and the regular bolt ons. an SS4000 converter, 12 bolt w/ 4.10s and some weight reduction, the car is probably 3550 with him in it(he a big fella too) and he has been 7.0's on motor and I think 6.60s on a 75 or 100 shot.
12-30-2012, 08:02 AM
#6
2/0 is the best bet for wire to the front of the car, especially due to the overall length... So not sure if your considering using #2 or 2/0.. There is a big diff.. 
6.99 isn't too hard at all Esp at your Race Weight... It's all in the 60ft like mentioned.. Not sure how that Circle D gonna do.. But give it a shot.. If it's not getting out the hole like you want... Might look into somthing else.. You shouldn't even need to spray it honestly to get that 6.99.. You may surprise yourself.... Mine went 6.7 to the 1/8 w/ stock heads that i had milled and a cam.. w/ a shitty 60ft @3570lbs... These motor's make power, and i'm sure martin's cam will put you where you need to be if your converter is where it needs to be...
6.99 isn't too hard at all Esp at your Race Weight... It's all in the 60ft like mentioned.. Not sure how that Circle D gonna do.. But give it a shot.. If it's not getting out the hole like you want... Might look into somthing else.. You shouldn't even need to spray it honestly to get that 6.99.. You may surprise yourself.... Mine went 6.7 to the 1/8 w/ stock heads that i had milled and a cam.. w/ a shitty 60ft @3570lbs... These motor's make power, and i'm sure martin's cam will put you where you need to be if your converter is where it needs to be...
12-30-2012, 09:50 PM
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I like this thread! Subscribed! I am trying to do the same goal as you, except just a HAIR different. My goal is to get my car to 6.99 normally aspirated, and hopefully have my sixty foot at the most a low 1.6. Hopefully 1.5's.
I have done my battery relocation on my car already, so there is a couple of things I can tell you about that. I actually used 4 gauge subwoofer wire from a local stereo shop. I think it is good, because it is a thick and shielded wire, but on the other hand it is kind of not so good because it is not designed for under hood temps, so I had to pretty much wrap all of the under hood wire with Earl's Flame guard material, which can get fairly expensive.
I don't have a kill switch on mine yet unfortunately. They bitched at me pretty good at the track about that, and it is NEXT on my list to do to the car. I would probably put your kill switch right off the positive of the battery though, some people say that with where you have it, the alternator can power the car. Just a thought I guess.
Also, I suppose your seat belt spot is a good ground spot, but I actually found an even better one! The STOCK ground cable for our cars is pretty much a Y-cable. Off of the negative terminal comes one smaller gauge wire and one larger gauge wire. With the battery in the spare tire spot in my car, I connected the smaller gauge wire to my power antenna mounting spot. Which is pretty much a body ground, and then I ran the other longer and larger gauge wire under the battery, out a factory hole in the floor, and DIRECTLY attached it to the frame spot right there. There was a threaded hole for I think where a muffler hanger usually is, but I don't run my exhaust all the way to the back of the car, so I was ok.
Here is a quick video of my run. I am not sure which run this was, but I did a best of 7.84@91mph that day. Best suxty foot I could get was only a 1.85.
7.84@91mph 370ci LQ9 6 speed
I am hoping with a really low 1.6 or 1.5 and maybe 2ph more on trap speed, I could maybe hit 6.99 or better. I am currently doing a TH400 a circle D 5K spragless swap on the car, and that should help the sixty tremendously. I was still a 6 speed in that video, and I just got sick of it. I love DDing manuals, but I would love to have a stalled TH400 at the track.
Good luck with your build, and also I sent you a PM about something. Laters,
Jordan
I have done my battery relocation on my car already, so there is a couple of things I can tell you about that. I actually used 4 gauge subwoofer wire from a local stereo shop. I think it is good, because it is a thick and shielded wire, but on the other hand it is kind of not so good because it is not designed for under hood temps, so I had to pretty much wrap all of the under hood wire with Earl's Flame guard material, which can get fairly expensive.
I don't have a kill switch on mine yet unfortunately. They bitched at me pretty good at the track about that, and it is NEXT on my list to do to the car. I would probably put your kill switch right off the positive of the battery though, some people say that with where you have it, the alternator can power the car. Just a thought I guess.
Also, I suppose your seat belt spot is a good ground spot, but I actually found an even better one! The STOCK ground cable for our cars is pretty much a Y-cable. Off of the negative terminal comes one smaller gauge wire and one larger gauge wire. With the battery in the spare tire spot in my car, I connected the smaller gauge wire to my power antenna mounting spot. Which is pretty much a body ground, and then I ran the other longer and larger gauge wire under the battery, out a factory hole in the floor, and DIRECTLY attached it to the frame spot right there. There was a threaded hole for I think where a muffler hanger usually is, but I don't run my exhaust all the way to the back of the car, so I was ok.
Here is a quick video of my run. I am not sure which run this was, but I did a best of 7.84@91mph that day. Best suxty foot I could get was only a 1.85.
7.84@91mph 370ci LQ9 6 speed
I am hoping with a really low 1.6 or 1.5 and maybe 2ph more on trap speed, I could maybe hit 6.99 or better. I am currently doing a TH400 a circle D 5K spragless swap on the car, and that should help the sixty tremendously. I was still a 6 speed in that video, and I just got sick of it. I love DDing manuals, but I would love to have a stalled TH400 at the track.
Good luck with your build, and also I sent you a PM about something. Laters,
Jordan
your goal shouldnt be that hard at all!!!! I went 7.10s with just a worn out vig 3600 converter, lid, tune, '02 exhaust manifolds(ported), no cats and a cut out with a 100 shot. I was on slicks and skinnies also. @ a 36XX or maybe 3700lbs race weight.. the car weighed 3420 I know but I forget what I weighed back then.
That 60ft needs some improvements for sure. Get it hookin and the mods you have planned shouldnt be a problem to puttin the car in the 6s.
a buddy of mine has an ss with a TR Trak cam, PRC stage I ls heads, fast 92mm intake, headers and the regular bolt ons. an SS4000 converter, 12 bolt w/ 4.10s and some weight reduction, the car is probably 3550 with him in it(he a big fella too) and he has been 7.0's on motor and I think 6.60s on a 75 or 100 shot.
That 60ft needs some improvements for sure. Get it hookin and the mods you have planned shouldnt be a problem to puttin the car in the 6s.
a buddy of mine has an ss with a TR Trak cam, PRC stage I ls heads, fast 92mm intake, headers and the regular bolt ons. an SS4000 converter, 12 bolt w/ 4.10s and some weight reduction, the car is probably 3550 with him in it(he a big fella too) and he has been 7.0's on motor and I think 6.60s on a 75 or 100 shot.
2/0 is the best bet for wire to the front of the car, especially due to the overall length... So not sure if your considering using #2 or 2/0.. There is a big diff.. 6.99 isn't too hard at all Esp at your Race Weight... It's all in the 60ft like mentioned.. Not sure how that Circle D gonna do.. But give it a shot.. If it's not getting out the hole like you want... Might look into somthing else.. You shouldn't even need to spray it honestly to get that 6.99.. You may surprise yourself.... Mine went 6.7 to the 1/8 w/ stock heads that i had milled and a cam.. w/ a shitty 60ft @3570lbs... These motor's make power, and i'm sure martin's cam will put you where you need to be if your converter is where it needs to be...
6.99 isn't too hard at all Esp at your Race Weight... It's all in the 60ft like mentioned.. Not sure how that Circle D gonna do.. But give it a shot.. If it's not getting out the hole like you want... Might look into somthing else.. You shouldn't even need to spray it honestly to get that 6.99.. You may surprise yourself.... Mine went 6.7 to the 1/8 w/ stock heads that i had milled and a cam.. w/ a shitty 60ft @3570lbs... These motor's make power, and i'm sure martin's cam will put you where you need to be if your converter is where it needs to be...I will get 2/0 then, that must be what my dad said. I'm going to try and leave the heads on, just to help on cost as i'm sure if i took them off i'd mill them and notch the pistons. Just trying to keep it cheap and go as fast as i can.
Ordered the ebay headers today, for $188 I'll heat/bend/cut whatever i need to haha. I do need O2 extension harnesses right?
Going to call MWC tomorrow, credit card rewards points is what i call it
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12-31-2012, 09:40 AM
#12
Just a little observation here. Notice how much of the water pump is engaged with the belt:
Does it slip at all?
You won't need a cam to run a 7.5, stock internal cars can hit that number. Concentrate on getting the weight out of it. I looked above but didn't see what gears you have in the car. I'm guessing that you have a stock 3.23 set. A set of 4.10's and a 28" rear tire would rock for 1/8th mile. If you don't want to go that aggressive a set of 3.73's will do. With a 4.10 you'd need a tall tire since the 1st gear in the 4L is so high. Running a tall tire gives you more contact patch.
I would leave the battery up front, just get a small Oddyssey or Braille. $150 and you'll shed 20-25lbs off of the nose. Putting a battery in the back of our cars actually adds 20-25lbs to the cars weight. Wait until you see how heavy that 2 gauge cable is when you have 20 feet of it. You aren't required to have the battery in back until you are running 9.99/6.29
Does it slip at all?
You won't need a cam to run a 7.5, stock internal cars can hit that number. Concentrate on getting the weight out of it. I looked above but didn't see what gears you have in the car. I'm guessing that you have a stock 3.23 set. A set of 4.10's and a 28" rear tire would rock for 1/8th mile. If you don't want to go that aggressive a set of 3.73's will do. With a 4.10 you'd need a tall tire since the 1st gear in the 4L is so high. Running a tall tire gives you more contact patch.
I would leave the battery up front, just get a small Oddyssey or Braille. $150 and you'll shed 20-25lbs off of the nose. Putting a battery in the back of our cars actually adds 20-25lbs to the cars weight. Wait until you see how heavy that 2 gauge cable is when you have 20 feet of it. You aren't required to have the battery in back until you are running 9.99/6.29
12-31-2012, 12:41 PM
#15
But yeah, obviously no slipping issues with that setup at all.
01-05-2013, 08:03 AM
#17
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Dam nice car for $2950, still cant get over that LOL. I went 7.02 with bolt ons and gave the car a helluva diet. Got it down to 2850 before adding cage. so yours with a cam and less weight....very possible
