Trans brake is it worth it?
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For the OP, when you want to feel a real 60', use a Tbrake. That 1.88 60' you have going is like a turtle starting a race. 1.6 60' times are sluggish in comparison. With my stock LS1 on a 150 shot (424 rwhp/396 rwtq) i've gone 1.41 60' off the Tbrake.
What trans are you going with? Do it once... go TH400
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If you can get a trans brake, get one. However you can still cut decent 60' times without. My full weight auto h/c w/ 150 shot foot brakes 1.32 60'. Check out Jake's Performance if you're interesed in a trans brake. I'm sure he's still a sponsor here on tech and he makes only quality products.
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Do you run NHRA or IHRA rules? In IHRA, a transbrake is allowed in no box classes.
For the OP, when you want to feel a real 60', use a Tbrake. That 1.88 60' you have going is like a turtle starting a race. 1.6 60' times are sluggish in comparison. With my stock LS1 on a 150 shot (424 rwhp/396 rwtq) i've gone 1.41 60' off the Tbrake.
What trans are you going with? Do it once... go TH400
For the OP, when you want to feel a real 60', use a Tbrake. That 1.88 60' you have going is like a turtle starting a race. 1.6 60' times are sluggish in comparison. With my stock LS1 on a 150 shot (424 rwhp/396 rwtq) i've gone 1.41 60' off the Tbrake.
What trans are you going with? Do it once... go TH400
I'm not running in any class, just having fun with a dedicated track car
T56 is already pulled and sold so now I'm looking at TH400's and convertors
Thank you
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One more question - does a T brake hit the driveline hard like dumping the clutch on my M6 did = breakage all the time? I would think foot brake is a little softer as the driveline is already loaded up when you launch. Part of my auto swap is to stop chewing up parts. I'm also changing the posi to a spool that should help the rear end too.
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One more question - does a T brake hit the driveline hard like dumping the clutch on my M6 did = breakage all the time? I would think foot brake is a little softer as the driveline is already loaded up when you launch. Part of my auto swap is to stop chewing up parts. I'm also changing the posi to a spool that should help the rear end too.
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The transbrake will be easier on parts when compared to dumping the clutch on a manual trans. My 12-bolt with a spool held up to high 1.2's low 1.3's off of the transbrake and high 1.3's footbraking. I recommend giving Greg @ FTI a call, he's the one that built my converter/trans for my old NA LS1 and now he's doing another converter/trans to go behind my 440.
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Thanks guys since its apart might as well get a trans with a brake. I bought a spool yesterday so its all coming together.
I have a line on a used 400 built by trans king in Galveston tx anyone heard of them?
I have a line on a used 400 built by trans king in Galveston tx anyone heard of them?
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If you are buying a brake it is in the valve body. TCI makes a decent valve body with a t brake. It come in a forward shift pattern or a reverse which is pulling the lever back rather than forward. These unit are around $300.
I bought a brand new Coan Racing th400 with a reverse valve body and a brake good to about 900 hp I think. It was around $1100 with no converter. It lasted over 400 passes and maybe 500 street miles before the sprag let go. I got it repaired and it is taking hits like no bodies business lol.
I bought a brand new Coan Racing th400 with a reverse valve body and a brake good to about 900 hp I think. It was around $1100 with no converter. It lasted over 400 passes and maybe 500 street miles before the sprag let go. I got it repaired and it is taking hits like no bodies business lol.
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The brake makes the driver so much more consistent that you can actually drive and focus on the light and let the car do the rest. It will cut a ton off your rt time once you get use to it.
It will also come out harder than ever with a good converter. Get something in the 4000-5000 range. It should be custom spec'd to your engine/gear entire setup. The converter need to be made for a LS1 so it has the correct snout length to fit in the back of the crank.
It will also come out harder than ever with a good converter. Get something in the 4000-5000 range. It should be custom spec'd to your engine/gear entire setup. The converter need to be made for a LS1 so it has the correct snout length to fit in the back of the crank.
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The transbrake will be easier on parts when compared to dumping the clutch on a manual trans. My 12-bolt with a spool held up to high 1.2's low 1.3's off of the transbrake and high 1.3's footbraking. I recommend giving Greg @ FTI a call, he's the one that built my converter/trans for my old NA LS1 and now he's doing another converter/trans to go behind my 440.
OP, you running a 12 bolt?
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I used to have a 9" but it was so big and clunky and heavy, it was one of the first designs back in the day So I took it out and put the 12 bolt in it around 2008.
I've heard so many things about FTI I decided they will be doing the convertor for sure. And if this used trans deal falls through they will probably do the trans for me too.