Drag Racing Tech
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:

MWC Chromoly Fbody Cage....underway!!

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Jul 6, 2014 | 08:13 PM
  #1  
mrstepheneades's Avatar
Thread Starter
TECH Fanatic
 
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 1,916
Likes: 8
From: Statesville, NC
Default MWC Chromoly Fbody Cage....underway!!

I got all the interior out off my twin turbo ta and starting on my cage I received from mwc. It's a 10pt chromoly. Just starting a picture thread on it for reference info for others and I'm sure I will have questions myself along the way.

First question I have. I know nhra rules say tig entire cage. That's no problem. But where the bars touch the floor plates, can that be mig? If it's something that is in question I'll just tig. Not like I know any chassis inspectors.

I'll post a bunch of progress pictures tomorrow when I get to a computer.
Reply
Old Jul 6, 2014 | 08:16 PM
  #2  
Zmg00camaross's Avatar
10 Second Club
15 Year Member
Photogenic
Photoriffic
Liked
iTrader: (12)
 
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 5,069
Likes: 51
From: Missouri
Default

In to watch. I thought the plates can be mig just not any tube.
Reply
Old Jul 6, 2014 | 08:54 PM
  #3  
mrstepheneades's Avatar
Thread Starter
TECH Fanatic
 
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 1,916
Likes: 8
From: Statesville, NC
Default

I heard lots of things including that it depends on inspector. I did mig weld the floor plates. I've only got the main hoop and the rear bars on so far.
Reply
Old Jul 7, 2014 | 06:27 AM
  #4  
98Camarod's Avatar
11 Second Club
iTrader: (43)
 
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 5,364
Likes: 2
From: Summerville, SC
Default

I tig'd all of mine, even the floor plates. Pretty shitty, but it looks great. IIRC I found out that you can mig the floor plates. I know alot of people also tack the bars into place with a mig.
Reply
Old Jul 7, 2014 | 07:41 AM
  #5  
mrstepheneades's Avatar
Thread Starter
TECH Fanatic
 
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 1,916
Likes: 8
From: Statesville, NC
Default


















Reply
Old Jul 7, 2014 | 08:06 AM
  #6  
mrstepheneades's Avatar
Thread Starter
TECH Fanatic
 
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 1,916
Likes: 8
From: Statesville, NC
Default

Originally Posted by 98Camarod
I tig'd all of mine, even the floor plates. Pretty shitty, but it looks great. IIRC I found out that you can mig the floor plates. I know alot of people also tack the bars into place with a mig.
Well I tacked bars so they will stay in place. I tacked them in easy accessible places so I can cut the tacks off and tig later.
Reply
Old Jul 7, 2014 | 08:08 AM
  #7  
mrstepheneades's Avatar
Thread Starter
TECH Fanatic
 
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 1,916
Likes: 8
From: Statesville, NC
Default

The bars were suppose to go to the speaker holes or that's how I ordered it. But im not hard to get along with so I just said screw it and used the original style bars they sent lol. Still looks fine.
Reply
Old Jul 7, 2014 | 09:33 AM
  #8  
ssvert99's Avatar
LS1Tech Premium Sponsor
iTrader: (26)
 
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 3,490
Likes: 5
From: Central Illinois
Default

The rear bars placed where you have them is by far the best. Going through the speaker hole places the tube over the inner wheel well where there is very little strength(or safety).


The floor plates are fine to be MIG welded, chromoly tubes are supposed to be TIG welded at any point.


Whats up with that big gaping hole in the tunnel over the torque arm?
Reply
Old Jul 7, 2014 | 10:12 AM
  #9  
mrstepheneades's Avatar
Thread Starter
TECH Fanatic
 
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 1,916
Likes: 8
From: Statesville, NC
Default

Originally Posted by ssvert99
The rear bars placed where you have them is by far the best. Going through the speaker hole places the tube over the inner wheel well where there is very little strength(or safety).


The floor plates are fine to be MIG welded, chromoly tubes are supposed to be TIG welded at any point.


Whats up with that big gaping hole in the tunnel over the torque arm?
Put my 9" rear in and the Huge Spohn Pro Series torque arm and it was hitting the tunnel so much it looked like I put a 3" lift kit on the rear of the car because the suspension wouldn't settle. So I cut it out enough so it would move. Im going to sheet metal the area closed. Just box in around the area.
Reply
Old Jul 19, 2014 | 06:09 AM
  #10  
mrstepheneades's Avatar
Thread Starter
TECH Fanatic
 
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 1,916
Likes: 8
From: Statesville, NC
Default

Got the gaping hole closed up and boxed in so the torque arm can still move up in there. Just pieced it since its gonna be under the carpet. Painted black after this also.

Reply
Old Jul 19, 2014 | 07:04 AM
  #11  
RENE'S RAGE's Avatar
9 Second Club
iTrader: (96)
 
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 2,387
Likes: 3
From: Memphis, TN
Default

Safety First!
Anymore progress on the cage?
Reply
Old Jul 21, 2014 | 07:54 AM
  #12  
mrstepheneades's Avatar
Thread Starter
TECH Fanatic
 
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 1,916
Likes: 8
From: Statesville, NC
Default

Originally Posted by RENE'S RAGE
Safety First!
Anymore progress on the cage?
Of coarse lol. Little bit more accomplished this weekend. Just haven't had much time lately.











Reply
Old Jul 21, 2014 | 07:58 AM
  #13  
mrstepheneades's Avatar
Thread Starter
TECH Fanatic
 
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 1,916
Likes: 8
From: Statesville, NC
Default

The bar on the driver side im having trouble getting just right. ssvert99, do I need to cut the dash support a little for the bar clearance? Or should it go in front of it fine and im just not holding my mouth right lol?
Reply
Old Jul 21, 2014 | 09:01 AM
  #14  
ssvert99's Avatar
LS1Tech Premium Sponsor
iTrader: (26)
 
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 3,490
Likes: 5
From: Central Illinois
Default

The driver side a-pillar bar is sunk into the bulkhead approximately 1/2 the diameter of the tube. Just use a body saw or cut-off wheel to clearance it as needed. This is required as the body is not the same on both sides.
Reply
Old Jul 21, 2014 | 09:13 AM
  #15  
mrstepheneades's Avatar
Thread Starter
TECH Fanatic
 
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 1,916
Likes: 8
From: Statesville, NC
Default

Originally Posted by ssvert99
The driver side a-pillar bar is sunk into the bulkhead approximately 1/2 the diameter of the tube. Just use a body saw or cut-off wheel to clearance it as needed. This is required as the body is not the same on both sides.
Thanks man. I already hammered it a little but realized it probably needed to be cut.
Reply
Old Jul 23, 2014 | 07:23 AM
  #16  
mrstepheneades's Avatar
Thread Starter
TECH Fanatic
 
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 1,916
Likes: 8
From: Statesville, NC
Default

More cage progress. Put my seat in to check things. Still a few more bars to put in.















Reply
Old Jul 23, 2014 | 07:54 AM
  #17  
RENE'S RAGE's Avatar
9 Second Club
iTrader: (96)
 
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 2,387
Likes: 3
From: Memphis, TN
Default

Looking good!
Reply
Old Jul 23, 2014 | 12:05 PM
  #18  
mrstepheneades's Avatar
Thread Starter
TECH Fanatic
 
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 1,916
Likes: 8
From: Statesville, NC
Default

Originally Posted by RENE'S RAGE
Looking good!
Thanks man. Not a lot of run in these cars once you get a cage in there haha.
Reply
Old Jul 26, 2014 | 05:54 AM
  #19  
mrstepheneades's Avatar
Thread Starter
TECH Fanatic
 
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 1,916
Likes: 8
From: Statesville, NC
Default

Door bar intersection
Reply
Old Jul 26, 2014 | 08:28 AM
  #20  
high impact's Avatar
10 Second Club
iTrader: (5)
 
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 718
Likes: 0
From: NW Indiana
Default

I will be installing a cage this winter and have been seriously considering this exact cage. A local buddy of mine installed the same cage and the only thing I don't like are the way those front bars come down off the hoop and don't run even along the windshield pillar. I love everything else about this kit.

Looking really good!
Reply



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 10:55 PM.