I suppose not. I'm only here to learn. The idea I have of it is, I know the higher the compression or boost the more octane needed to keep from detonating.

 

that's right. compressing the air causes heat. the octane rating of fuel refers to the flashpoint of fuel. the higher the octane rating, the higher the flash point. but consequently, the higher the flash point, the slower the burn rate. also, the slower the burn rate, the less energy is in a drop of that fuel.

so the more air you can cram into a cylinder, the more fuel you can burn with it. that's where the power comes from. but you need a high octane, slower burning fuel to go with it to resist detonating from the resulting heat.

so if you're using a very high octane in a low compression, low heat situation, your burn rate is slow and ineffective causing very low power. it will run decent driving around, just have no power.

so only use the fuel that your effective compression ratio requires. if you really are around 9:1 static compression n\a, you could be running 87 octane and it will run better.

I've heard people say that E85 acts like anywhere from 110-120 octane.

 

Ok that makes sense now. I suppose you can't really effectively do what I was trying to do which was make it the best N/A then turbo it. I have 80lbs injectors and I don't know this but that sounds to big for regular gasoline. I should either get different "smaller" injectors and run gasoline, or just finish and put a turbo on the thing.

Basically what I was trying to do is what this guy did in his first post.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...-i-expect.html 12.20 @ 110 N/A and now he is going to turbocharge it. That was kinda what I was looking for before I put the turbo on.

 

e85 shines under boost but can still make small gains NA but you need to take advantage of its strengths

it can tolerate a lot of timing especially where you are low compression I bet you could increase timing a lot ( depending on if your tuner has optimized your current setup or just laying the foundation for your turbo setup)

Alcohol fuels are also oxygenated so the fuel acts as a carrier to bring extra oxygen into the combustion chamber ,not nearly as much extra oxygen as a power adder like n20 , turbo,sc, etc.. but still extra oxygen.

Alcohol is also a very clean burning fuel and can be run pretty rich without fouling plugs so you can pack a lot of it in there possibly to take more advantage of that oxygen carrying capacity

then there is the charge cooling properties kinda like getting improved density altitude from your fuel lol - but like big hammer is saying it is a slower burning fuel due to the octane increase so you have to bring the timing in early (advance) to get it to complete combustion events in time to take advantage of the fuel or you would be better off running lower octane , I guess it all depends how soon you plan to complete your turbo swap if its worth the effort to try to maximize your current setup , low compression NA on e85 hp gains are typically mentioned to be in the 5% range but under boost its a game changer.

 

murphinator- I think I'm going to start my turbo swap early... It's no fun to drive right now and to maximize the current setup I think would be a waste of money to spend $400-$500 on a dyno tune. I was trying to get all the bugs ironed out before but it seems I have created some due to the current setup NA. I just hope I don't run into any issues once the turbo is on.

This is the setup I'm copying... https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...-page-3-a.html

 

I had the tuner look at my car this weekend... It's a totally different car now and am pleased... I just hope I didn't hurt the engine any taking it down the track. Fuel pressure was dropping off and he turned the fuel all the way up and was still leaning out... Needless to say the car has alot more power now than what it did. I'm ready for the turbo install now.

 

Do any of you guys have a wiring schematic of a window switch wired to an auxiliary fuel pump?

 

I know someone is going to read this and think your talking about a power window switch , you do mean an rpm "window" switch where the window would be open from say 4000 rpm to 7000 rpm so when the criteria is met the "window" is open and the 2nd pump runs???

 

Yes, I'm sorry haha... I'm gathering parts to build for my fuel pump setup. I was looking at running either MSD or Jeg's window switch to activate my second fuel pump over running a hobbs switch.

 

update:

60ft 2.0
1/4 13.5
MPH 110