01 CamaroSS SLP

I have a few questions, so my bolt-on m6 car went 12.8@112 with 17inch 275w nitto 555 street tires. Weighed 3600 that night with me in it.

I plan on taking about 100 lbs out of the car. ( spare tire, jack, rear seats, some other small things and going to show up with a few gallons less gas this time.

I bought some 16 inch 255x50x16 Mickey Thompson e.t. street tires for the track. Before with the street tires i launched at 2500-3500 rpm. Now with the MT's im not going to launch as hard because i don't really feel like breaking the rear. I know i know i have a manual car and sticky tires. If it happens it happens but im not going to launch it hard and risk it if i don't have to. So i'm wondering, with the street tires i was spinning 1st through 2nd. Now i should hook but im launching softer and will most likely bog, will the trade off be better for me?

Also is it worth it for me to remove the front sway bar? I'd really like to get a 12.5 or better. My 60' on the 12.8 pass was a 2.0 so room for improvement there. Thanks

93camaro_zzz

iTrader: (13)

Yeah, if you know what you are doing, you can still cut some decent sixty foot times with an M6 on a DR and still not nuke your rear end. Just don't be trying those 5000rpm clutch dumps. Stick to a lower rpm that you know is safe, like 2500 or whatnot.

Also to answer your question, it WILL help to remove your front sway bar, and obviously the seats, and that stuff. I think your 12.5 goal is definitely in reach. You could get there with that same run, but just with a 1.8 sixty.

VandykeT/A

What gear is in it? A friend of mine always cut 1.79-1.82s in a cammed 410 car leaving at idle. Basically throttle goes down as clutch comes out. I guess it helped him from shocking the tires with the radials. The tires were some 555rs with the wires hanging out.

01 CamaroSS SLP

Even 2500 might be pushing it. I think 12.5 is very reasonable. Just looking to see who has done this before and what were their results. Do you have any personal experience In a better et by removing the sway bar?
4.10s in the rear. If I can cut a 1.8 just leaving off idle I'll be amazed.
I'd be mid 12s and wouldn't even launch it.

guppymech

iTrader: (7)

A bias ply hooks better and shocks the rear less with a M6 than DRs. That said, you should reach your goal launching like Vandyke said. GL

01 CamaroSS SLP

That's why I got the e.t. streets.

93camaro_zzz

iTrader: (13)

I don't have any personal back to back tests, but besides the fact that it is taking quite a bit of weight off the exact part of the carthat is best to take weight off of (In your situation), removing the front sway bar allows the car to transfer weight better. Also what would help a ton, is to pick up a pair of drag shocks for the front. You would probably shat your pants from the difference of how your car launches now, to how it would launch with drag shocks on the front and no front sway bar.

VandykeT/A

I pulled the sway bar on my car and went from a 26" Mickey to a 27" Hoosier and went from low 1.7x to low 1.6x. Added some drag shocks and did some tinkering with them also changed tracks and cut low 1.5x with a best of 1.51. That was leaving above 5500 every pass with a dead clutch dump. Since your gonna be running a bias ply now I would try leaving in the higher rpms but try to keep the hit with the clutch as soft as possible. I see pulling the sway bar being more beneficial the harder your leaving. It's a lot easier to bog the car with the bias plys. My car would bog terribly below 5500. Good luck

bufmatmuslepants

iTrader: (3)

You have the mph for low 12s. I did 12.53 at 110 on the 10 bolt with ET street bias plys on salad shooters and a 1.87 60'. Key is to kinda bog it from about 2000rpm, and let the torque pull you out. Almost like loading the ring gear with some power first as you start letting the clutch out to not shock it, then dumping and bogging it quickly while hammering the throttle.

99.9percenter

iTrader: (2)

I get the best times if I can get it to bog a little.

murphinator

iTrader: (2)

slip the clutch a whisker to lessen the shock on the rear while keeping rpm's up. As stated you already have the mph to go much quicker than you are my bolt on m6 car went 11.9 @111 and my bolt on stalled a4 car went 12.1 @112 both in the 1.7 60 foots

bufmatmuslepants

iTrader: (3)

I found that slipping the clutch too much, from too high of an rpm, ends up making it harder to apply a constant force to the tires, as soon as it starts to pull forward your foot/leg is inherently pulled backwards, causing you to let the clutch out a tiny but more and it makes it more likely to spin. Just getting enough slip at the very beginning to apply pressure on the ring gear then bogging it lets the power of the car put a linear force on the tires and less likely to spin. On the bias plys you have much less of a chance of spinning, so you can slip and bog it higher than street tires, but its a fine line between spinning and blowing that 10 bolt. If you can cut a 1.8x on a 10 bolt on an m6 I think that's pretty good. Takes a lot of practice, I did about 100 passes on street tires first to get the motion right before I did bias plys.

Also are you powershifting? At what rpm?

GARY2004Z06

There is some good info here and some bad.
Let's start with the tire selection. The 255x50x16 is indeed a DR as some have pointed out. Also, they are less forgiving on the launch as well as the drivetrain. In order to launch a DR on a manual trans, the clutch needs to have a small amount of slip while the tires need to hook rather quickly during the launch. DRs will not recover like a bias ply tire. A bias ply tire needs several revolutions to launch well. (Many of these points have been mentioned above.)
Next, it's never good to bog. (I will qualify this statement by saying that with a conventional non adjustable clutch, your RPMs will drop but not to the point where acceleration is lost.) This will kill ET by taking the motor out of its powerband. Most people focus on the 60' as I did. Once I focused on the 330', better ETs were obtained. This is due to focusing on my shifting, launch and keeping the car in the correct powerband.
As for lessening your chances of breaking, there are several keys.
The (bias ply) tires should spin several revolutions as mentioned earlier.
The drivetrain should not be shocked.
The clutch should slip. Dumping the clutch is inherently bad unless that clutch will slip. This has much to do with the amount of torque applied to the clutch as well as the type of clutch.
Higher launch rpm significantly increases your chances of breaking parts but can be minimized by the right technique for your setup.
A little weight reduction will make it easier on the car since it has less inertia to overcome.

Depending on track prep, you may wish to run those tires starting at 22 psi. Your launch rpm, clutch release and throttle squeeze are critical. It's important to have a smooth release that has the clutch engaged within the first 3' to 10' of travel. These tires will allow you to be more aggressive on your throttle squeeze than regular street tires. You may wish to launch starting at 2500 rpm. This is usually a very safe starting point. If the car bogs severely, air the tires up a pound at a time. You also may need more throttle squeeze. If you spin, lower them a pound at a time. As you get more comfortable, you can increase launch rpm.

Good luck and keep us posted. If you have someone video the car from the side, we can provide feedback.