kent

The best time I have been able to get with my Nitto's are 12.27 ET with 387 HP. Will people with simialr HP please state how you run 12.0 or less through the quarter on Nitto's such as: How long do burn out, what air pressure do you run, if you used Hal shocks what settings do you use front and back, what is the lowest air pressure you can go without an safety issue, and other mods that match the Nitto's in conjunction to obtain traction. PLease advise me on what you do....so that I can bring my time down please. I am trying to stay away from slicks because I dont't want to break my stock rearend. <img border="0" alt="[Burnout]" title="" src="graemlins/burnout.gif" /> I really do need some help. Thanks.

1madss

iTrader: (10)

Auto or manual?.

I run used to run my Nittos at ~18-20 psi and at least a 5 second burnout. Any lower and they start getting pretty loose. Then get to line quick, they do not hold heat long at all. All my stock clutch would hold was a 4800 rpm launch netting me 1.70s with my M6 and 4.10s. Not a stellar 60' but enough to get me into the 11's on boltons <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

Mark

kent

The car is an auto.

98TAauto

iTrader: (2)

what stall and other mods do you have??

i just stall to 1100-1300, roll into throttle and cut 1.60-1.64's, but im on 245/50/16's nittos at 20psi <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />

kent

I have a 3200 vig and I stall at 1800 to 2200 RPM's. I have Metco Lower Control Arms, Front and Rear Hal Shocks, Front Hal Drag Springs, etc. I guess I am going have to stall at 1000 RP for a faster ET. <img border="0" alt="[Burnout]" title="" src="graemlins/burnout.gif" />

98TAauto

iTrader: (2)

yep, try lowering your stall rpms to 1k or so.. supposedly these verters love to be flashed...

but i found the max holding on my 16's to be around 1.60, but the verter still has more in it, i just need to run et streets.. but im afraid to use them on the stock 10 bolt..

17's may not cut as good of a 60 as the 16's or 15's, cause they dont have the sidewall, but one guy in our club has a ST3800 on 17inch nittos and he cuts 1.67-1.70's at 19-21psi stalling to 1200 or so..

just work your way down from 1500 and see how she does...

but 1.70's get me 12.3's
1.60's get me 11.98-12.10's

bigggg difference <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />

WILWAXU

iTrader: (6)

12.15 @ 111 (1.63) <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" /> 315 Nitto's @ 14psi <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />

kent

Thanks for the information. I will try to stall my car at a lower RPM's, but with new cam I have, I have to keep car idling at least 1000 RPM's because of the lope and it will die. Any other suggestins in this area is appreciated.

kent

I purchase two wheels with skinnies last year but have never used them on the car yet. I believe it would save about 45 pounds or so on the front of the car, would this give me better weight transfer to the rearend for a better 60 foot time in conjunction with the 17 inch nitto's. Also, I can set the front Hal's at 1 for maximum soft setting. I will also fill the gas tank full of gas for better traction. From the six or seven runs I have made at the track, I had to lowered the air pressure to 15 for any traction at all. Can I safely set the tires at 14 and be safe. Please assist as I need to solve my traction problem without breaking my rearend. I know there is someone out there who knows the answer to these questions. Thanks a million. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Eek!]" src="gr_eek2.gif" />

Trevor @ Texas Speed & Perf.

iTrader: (3)

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by kent:
<strong>I purchase two wheels with skinnies last year but have never used them on the car yet. I believe it would save about 45 pounds or so on the front of the car, would this give me better weight transfer to the rearend for a better 60 foot time in conjunction with the 17 inch nitto's. Also, I can set the front Hal's at 1 for maximum soft setting. I will also fill the gas tank full of gas for better traction. From the six or seven runs I have made at the track, I had to lowered the air pressure to 15 for any traction at all. Can I safely set the tires at 14 and be safe. Please assist as I need to solve my traction problem without breaking my rearend. I know there is someone out there who knows the answer to these questions. Thanks a million. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Eek!]" src="gr_eek2.gif" /> </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Skinnies will help in that they'll take weight off of the nose of the car. They will also reduce rotating mass, and that will help out as well. I would try the Hals out on 2 and see how they work. With those really soft springs, the front end might start bouncing across the line. You'll just have to play with it and see. I personally wouldn't take the psi any lower than 15. That's pretty low for a set of radials IMO.
As for launching RPM, I would do just the opposite. I would stall the converter up higher due to traction problems. The last thing you want to do is hit the tires harder by flashing the converter. I would try a few different RPM stalls to see what works best. I know that stalling my Vig 3200 up higher helps out a little when traction is limited.