narrowed rear and the old ARE car...
#1
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I was searching through posts about narrowed rear ends. I like how the old silver ARE car looked with that deep dish. I realize they had altered the mounting points of the stock suspension. Does anyone know what the specifications on the rear was and what backspace the rims were? Just trying to figure out if it's possible to run that combo without having to alter the suspension mounting points. Got pics of alot of the cars that have been posted, but if you care to post the pics again, feel free. Also, if you had ordered the rear through Moser/Strange/Currie/etc.. did they charge you extra for the narrowing? thanks
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Originally Posted by z28kid98
I was searching through posts about narrowed rear ends. I like how the old silver ARE car looked with that deep dish. I realize they had altered the mounting points of the stock suspension. Does anyone know what the specifications on the rear was and what backspace the rims were? Just trying to figure out if it's possible to run that combo without having to alter the suspension mounting points. Got pics of alot of the cars that have been posted, but if you care to post the pics again, feel free. Also, if you had ordered the rear through Moser/Strange/Currie/etc.. did they charge you extra for the narrowing? thanks
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Thanks Bob. your formula is one that i have a ton of pics of saved on my laptop. you also emailed me a ton of the minitub job a while back. i appreciate it. So with that 4.5" BS, that means you have 3" off each side of the rear end correct? or did you only go 2.5" on each side and get that extra .5" tuck?
also, when you start getting to 0 offset, are making the wheels fit over the stock calipers a bit easier? I have them ground down for the 15x10 pro stars i have now, just wondering if i could switch to a different rim without going with aftermarket brakes.
Chris
also, when you start getting to 0 offset, are making the wheels fit over the stock calipers a bit easier? I have them ground down for the 15x10 pro stars i have now, just wondering if i could switch to a different rim without going with aftermarket brakes.
Chris
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Originally Posted by z28kid98
Thanks Bob. your formula is one that i have a ton of pics of saved on my laptop. you also emailed me a ton of the minitub job a while back. i appreciate it. So with that 4.5" BS, that means you have 3" off each side of the rear end correct? or did you only go 2.5" on each side and get that extra .5" tuck?
also, when you start getting to 0 offset, are making the wheels fit over the stock calipers a bit easier? I have them ground down for the 15x10 pro stars i have now, just wondering if i could switch to a different rim without going with aftermarket brakes.
Chris
also, when you start getting to 0 offset, are making the wheels fit over the stock calipers a bit easier? I have them ground down for the 15x10 pro stars i have now, just wondering if i could switch to a different rim without going with aftermarket brakes.
Chris
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Originally Posted by GIZMO
Chris,
If you have a rear end made to fit a 1982-92 F-Body it will bolt right in. You can then run wheels with 5" back spacing.
Daren
If you have a rear end made to fit a 1982-92 F-Body it will bolt right in. You can then run wheels with 5" back spacing.
Daren
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NRC,
Do you have any more pics of your formula?
Maybe a couple from the rear.
Have you done a minitub?
Why do say that the closer you are to zero ofset the better?
Sorry for all the questions.
Thanks,
Dave
Do you have any more pics of your formula?
Maybe a couple from the rear.
Have you done a minitub?
Why do say that the closer you are to zero ofset the better?
Sorry for all the questions.
Thanks,
Dave
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Originally Posted by CanuckSS
NRC,
Do you have any more pics of your formula?
Maybe a couple from the rear.
Have you done a minitub?
Why do say that the closer you are to zero ofset the better?
Sorry for all the questions.
Thanks,
Dave
Do you have any more pics of your formula?
Maybe a couple from the rear.
Have you done a minitub?
Why do say that the closer you are to zero ofset the better?
Sorry for all the questions.
Thanks,
Dave
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These are pics of my SS with a Currie 9" that was narrowed 2" per side. The first pics are when I had ProStar XPs that were 16x8.5 - 5.5bs and a 26" ET Street. The second set of pics are with 15x10 ProStars - 5"bs (zero offset) and 28" Slicks. The change required cutting of the bump stops and massaging the inner wells via the BFH mod.
![](http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/8/web/464000-464999/464562_18_full.jpg)
![](http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/8/web/464000-464999/464562_22_full.jpg)
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The ARE car had the LCA mounting on the other side of the bracket. (Using the original inside hole for the outermost LCA mount and another tab for the inside hole) It was legal for OSCA True Street series and NHRA as well.
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if you send me your email address i can send picts of formula,the first tire i put on it was a hoosier 29x11.50, now it has a 28x14.5 but both needed mini tub to fit properly and keep car down and my lower bars are in the stock locations, bob
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Last edited by NRC-Motorsports; 06-28-2004 at 08:13 PM.
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Originally Posted by RUQWIKR
Daren's right, but the 93-97 LT1 cars used the same width rears as the 3rd Gen's, too. They have the same suspension points as the LS1 cars, but the rears are 1.5" PER side narrower. Take care.
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Originally Posted by Chris ARE 360
The ARE car had the LCA mounting on the other side of the bracket. (Using the original inside hole for the outermost LCA mount and another tab for the inside hole) It was legal for OSCA True Street series and NHRA as well.
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#15
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A 9" or 12 bolt narrowed 3" per side with a 15x10 on a 5" backspacing will tuck very nicely. That is with the lower control arms relocated / pushed all the way to the insides of the factory bracket locations. Enough clearance in my case for about 3/4" or so of clearance to the LCA from the tire. Plenty of clearance everywhere else in the wheel well with a small mini tub. If you went to a smaller diameter LCA you might be able to gain a little more. I'm not sure at what limit that becomes a problem though.
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Originally Posted by DERTY
A 9" or 12 bolt narrowed 3" per side with a 15x10 on a 5" backspacing will tuck very nicely. That is with the lower control arms relocated / pushed all the way to the insides of the factory bracket locations. Enough clearance in my case for about 3/4" or so of clearance to the LCA from the tire. Plenty of clearance everywhere else in the wheel well with a small mini tub. If you went to a smaller diameter LCA you might be able to gain a little more. I'm not sure at what limit that becomes a problem though.
My wheel wells are clearanced big time in both front and back so I am not needing to tuck them in more. I do not want to worry about suspension location though.
It's time for me to order a strange 12 bolt w/spool & 4.10's. I'd like to do it right the first time.
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Originally Posted by z28kid98
I was searching through posts about narrowed rear ends. I like how the old silver ARE car looked with that deep dish. I realize they had altered the mounting points of the stock suspension. Does anyone know what the specifications on the rear was and what backspace the rims were? Just trying to figure out if it's possible to run that combo without having to alter the suspension mounting points. Got pics of alot of the cars that have been posted, but if you care to post the pics again, feel free. Also, if you had ordered the rear through Moser/Strange/Currie/etc.. did they charge you extra for the narrowing? thanks
#19
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Originally Posted by Magnus
Would a 12 bolt narrowed 3" on each side would be just fine with 15x10's with 4.5" backspacing? Would it be better to narrow 2.5" and do 5" BS?
My wheel wells are clearanced big time in both front and back so I am not needing to tuck them in more. I do not want to worry about suspension location though.
It's time for me to order a strange 12 bolt w/spool & 4.10's. I'd like to do it right the first time.
My wheel wells are clearanced big time in both front and back so I am not needing to tuck them in more. I do not want to worry about suspension location though.
It's time for me to order a strange 12 bolt w/spool & 4.10's. I'd like to do it right the first time.
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I took 3" off each side of the rear, massaged the innners, and removed the bump stop, replacing it with flat stock. I have 2 sets of rime, one is the Convo pro 10x15, 5"bs, which required no brake modifications. I have a true 10.5" ET Drag on the rim (not a W) and I have 1/2" oc clearance inside the wheel well. The metal most likely to come in contact is at the lower end of 2:00 (if you were facing the wheel on the passenger side). I could not fit a wider tire with this rim.
My street rim is a Centerline Telestar, 15x10 4" bs. The rim has a nice dish to it. I have a 13" 28" ET Street on this. I have plenty of clearance with this combo. Looking back, I think a 4 1/4 bs would have been a tad bit better.
If you take 3" off the housing, you will not be able to retain the E-brake. The bracket comes too close to the brake plates. I think I still have some pics on my webshots, take a look around. Good luck.
My street rim is a Centerline Telestar, 15x10 4" bs. The rim has a nice dish to it. I have a 13" 28" ET Street on this. I have plenty of clearance with this combo. Looking back, I think a 4 1/4 bs would have been a tad bit better.
If you take 3" off the housing, you will not be able to retain the E-brake. The bracket comes too close to the brake plates. I think I still have some pics on my webshots, take a look around. Good luck.