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But it seems normal to me. You can't throw iron blocks, subframe connectors, iron centered 9"s, strut tower braces, etc at a car then complain it's heavy.
Yeah, i did an aluminum center the other day and it was very heavy. I couldnt imagine an iron center. Moser has a huge cast iron TA bracket thats another 20 (or more) pounds. Lots of little details like that people dont factor. I have subframe connectors now but may remove them once the cage goes in. I also keep a strut tower bar due to the fact that lexan likes to lift in these cars, so im trying prevent cowl flex. 5 pounds well worth it IMO. But Im under 3k but Ive literally taken the entire car apart to get there, lightweight carpet, no radio speakers or wiring assoc with it, full ac delete, trimmed lower radiator support, no horns, no cruise, no airbags or airbag computer, no abs, no e brake, cables or lever etc etc.....I mean i climbed up and down the cars *** to find all that weight to get me a sub3k turbo 4l80e car.
Yea the whole ta conglomeration can add to......mwc ftw. I didn't gain any weight goin to a 9" when all said and done i don't think. If i did it was very minimal.
Instead of using subframe connectors i stitch welded the underside of my car
Yep MwC 9” with aluminum center and spool is not much heavier than a stock 10bolt. With strange brakes it is lighter. Like you guys said also the tq arm design is much lighter with the 9”. All those little things add up. I try to focus on if I can live without it and or can I replace it with a lighter version.
Cut off wheels, and hole saws. But even that and simple stuff like abs delete is gonna cost something. To answer his question, trimming some stuff and deleting factory options is the cheapest and easiest way to cut weight for just a little money invested.
Well as drivers go they could easily vary 200lb. He also didn't say rw in the title. So i assumed car weight......which i would rather stay with because of said driver weight variable. But my rw last time out was 3250rw with the description above. I weigh about 170.
Now a cage and iron block will add to that.....but I'm far from crazy
A car like that should go less than 2800 with ease.
what you think it should be and whst is is is two differnt things.I am not guessing my wieght it has been on a scale at a Nhra track.
Well.....here we go. You're probably not gonna tell me much about what these cars weigh or can weigh. I bought mine new....it weighed 3430 new with about 3/8 gas in it. If photobucket hadn't of screwed errybody on the interwebs then pics of what i have did to reduce weight would still be on here.
My car weighed this with no hood tho...so add 25lb. But it had stock SS wheels, full interior and all amenities, jack/spare, bumber supports (front is Burkhardt) on my scales. I have also weighed it on other race scales, quarry scales and the nhra scales you think so highly of. On all of them 1 pound is 1 pound. As crazy as that seems.
Iron block 110, f+r glass 50ish, f+r brakes 75, chromoly cage (10 point) 90ish. Thats over 300 pounds from just those 4 things!!
And please stop referencing weight with driver, we dont know how much you weigh (goes for anyone reading this). Quoting race weight is fine (seems more relevant when talking et and mph) but talking about weight reduction mods its more helpful to know car only weight.
I'm just used to drag racing talk. Car is always referred to in race weight form.
With no driver 2,900 is still insane to do cheaply. it is not easy or cheap. and I've built many of these cars and I know what it takes. my current car isnt even close to that and you have seen above everything I have done and its around 3200 with no one in it. it needs lexan, it needs drag brakes, things like that to get to 2,900. those are big money for small gains. gotta do a few of those to add up. This guy prolly dont want to spend a **** ton of cash by the sounds of it.
I'm just used to drag racing talk. Car is always referred to in race weight form.
With no driver 2,900 is still insane to do cheaply. it is not easy or cheap. and I've built many of these cars and I know what it takes. my current car isnt even close to that and you have seen above everything I have done and its around 3200 with no one in it. it needs lexan, it needs drag brakes, things like that to get to 2,900. those are big money for small gains. gotta do a few of those to add up. This guy prolly dont want to spend a **** ton of cash by the sounds of it.
You could do 2 front race seats -35
!jack/spare -35
Remove rear seats/belts -30
Drag pack -70
There's 170 off my car. If you're serious then a pin on hood and you wouldn't have to add the 25 for the hinged hood and save another 10-15.
That would be damn near 2800 even and still have ac, factory brakes, and other than 2 race seats full interior. Or you could just do 1 race seat for more savings.
Funny part is i technically have a oe k member and front suspension. Albeit lightened. .....but not tubular light
I dont see how. My car weighed almost 3,700 stock with full tank of gas. Your car must have big chunks of metal cut off. **** i dont even have heater box at all and my **** is heavy. that iron block prolly weighs more than i think. prolly a bad decision lol.
There is weight all over these things just gotta get creative with finding it. Hell in that weight pic has a front sway bar on it too if i remember right.
Originally Posted by 01ssreda4
Rear seat belts would not quite be 30 even if you took out the 6 brackets that hold them to car. Unless you meant rear seat and belt delete.
3200lbs is cake, under that you start to lose creature comforts. This is what my car has to get to 3100lbs. It is an auto LT1, so ~100lbs heavier which should leave an LS at right around 3k even.
Car is a 93 LT1, auto hardtop strippper...only options were power windows+AC.
- AC removed, 1LE delete pulley. Heater+box left in and still work.
- Complete EGR+EVAP deletes, all solenoids and charcoal canister
- 3" true duals w/ bullets dumped before the rear axle, much lighter than mufflers out the tail
- bare ABS headliner
- Passenger sun visor removed, kept drivers
- AIR pump delete
- Oil sandwich plate delete
- Fog light deletes
- Fiberglass hood w/o the padded shield
- Single hood shock (can only be done with lightweight hood)
- No rear hatch shocks (prop stick life)
- Rear seats and seatbelts removed
- 9.5" Stall is actually a ton lighter than stock, not sure exact difference but it was huge
- rear speakers+factory sub removed (still have two fronts for crappy tinny music on the way to the track lol)
- Full tubular suspension
- 15" Weld RTSs
- No spare tire
- No jack
That's all I can remember off the top of my head. Car was 3120 with the above, without me in it(I weigh ~175). Supposedly I should be even lighter at this point based on similar cars, so I need to get it on a scale again to double check if that is true or just internet banter. Note that I haven't drilled or cut anything up yet. Still has a radio, both factory cloth front seats, factory glass, wipers, all carpet and insulation, etc. Next round of weight reduction goal is to get to 29xx or under to compensate when I add the cage. Won't be hard but is NOT stuff to do for a street car anymore. Full Lexan is another 100#s off total, Glide drops 60lbs, Aftermarket seats that aren't insanely uncomfortable maybe 20#s off each. Insulation ~5?. Door bars and low speed bumpers are another 45lbs between em. PS delete with Manual rack+tubular k-member at least 50lbs. EWP drops 10lbs. Supposedly our harness is massive and heavy so gutting the unneeded wiring and removing unused relays and such is worth a chunk of weight as well.
They can get very light if you're willing to make some sacrifices.
Just a couple quick picks of where I’m at right now . I need to hit a scale soon once I get the dashboard back together and front suspension installs. I just spent under 900 dollars for a k member , upper and lower A arms and adjustable coil overs.
02-15-2018, 05:58 PM
