When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Battery Relocation with Isolator? Check my Diagram Please
I know some of this has been beaten to death but I haven't seen many diagrams using an isolator relay in lieu of running 2 separate (+) cables for the starter and alternator.
Can some of you verify this will be:
A) Correct in my thinking in creating this
B) NHRA Legal
C) What fuse amperage should I run, and I would assume I should use a fuse in between the ALT and solenoid power stud as well?
D) Am I missing anything?
I am thinking this setup will cut down on the amount of 0/1 I will need, and also it will simplify the location for the power requirements of the car with the battery relocated to the back. I already planned to use a smaller isolator solenoid to feed my aux fuse block that will be running switches/gauges/meth/etc, however it may be easier to just run the single 500A constant duty solenoid to feed everything from the engine bay.
No, you need an independent line to the alt (hot all the time), the cutoff should not cut off the alt or it will kill the diodes. To cover the event of that one wire burning, I installed a 150a fuse. In the event of a wreck or the wire grounding out the fuse will pop.
So I have my battery where the ttop well used to be:
I have the ground (0 or 2 gauge) going from the battery to the rear panel behind the tail lights with a small stud i welded. Then from there it travels up front to the ac black off plate where i installed terminals to help me distribute power. Grounds can then go to the chassis up front and the engine by the starter.
For positive, 2 wires come off the battery. 4 gauge through the 150a fuse directly to the alt. The 2nd, goes into the berger panel to the shutoff switch, then from there it goes to the positive terminal at the ac block off. From there i distribute power to the fuse block, and the starter.
Since my fuse blocks are under the dash I dont have to run very long power wires.
You can’t have a fuse between the starter and the battery. I don’t know how many times this has to be repeated. When have you ever seen a 900amp fuse?
A quick Google search would net you several 900a fuses, in any case the only time the cranking amperage would be extremely high is low voltage/cold etc.
In any case I did a battery relocate on my 99 Camaro, I couldn't remember if I us d a fuse or not, that was 10 years ago and part of why I asked, I don't remember what I did/didn't do and I had no issues.
Riiiight - because a $500 commercial/industrial fuse is what’s in every car with a rear mounted battery. Give it up dude. No car with a rear mount battery has a starter fuse. No car period has a fuse on the starter wire. You “don’t remember” because it didn’t happen. This isn’t a congressional hearing, no one cares about your nonsense here. Take the fuse out of your diagram because they don’t exist.
Riiiight - because a $500 commercial/industrial fuse is what’s in every car with a rear mounted battery. Give it up dude. No car with a rear mount battery has a starter fuse. No car period has a fuse on the starter wire. You “don’t remember” because it didn’t happen. This isn’t a congressional hearing, no one cares about your nonsense here. Take the fuse out of your diagram because they don’t exist.
Wow, are you triggered or what? In any case, I'll take the fuse out. Notice there were question marks there in the first place?
My wiring is exactly like stock except the battery is in the back with 1/0 gauge hot and grounds ran up to the starter. Off the starter, to the red box under hood for power distribution.
11-08-2018, 11:27 AM
Battery Relocation with Isolator? Check my Diagram Please 
