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One of the most important factors for picking an intake and Richards goes over this in his videos is what is the intended us and rpm range for the intake. This is a question you need to ask yourself. Do you care about losing down low hp and torque to gain hp and torque somewhere else in the rpm range. It’s a give and take concept. Let’s same you like driving the car on the street and want the lower rpm torque and the hp at lower then 6800-7000k then you can not beat the fast 102 intake period. If you still like driving it on the street and don’t care about losing a little bit down low to gain from 6800-7500 then the MSD will shine better then the fast at the rpm range. The same really goes for sheet metal intakes. If you are spinning the motor 7000-8000 you are going to gain very well With certain sheet metal intakes over a fast 102. Honestly fast 102 or MSD you are going to make more power then a ls6 on your setup. That is everywhere in the rpm range. Just have to find a good tuner to dial in a 102 Tb. Don’t cheap out on a 102 Tb either.
To me, I will continue to drive the car on the street, but the mods are all for track performance.
I went back and looked, right now the best passes I am only shifting at 6200-6300 rpms
If I can get a test session in this Friday, I am going to set shift light to 6700 and see what the results are.
I definitely would prefer to make power up to 7000-7500 and shift around that rpm range. With 4.56s it wouldn't hurt to be able to get more MPH out of the car once it makes more power.
Well looks like I have a little work to do this week. Going to see if I can get this done after work this week and go testing on Friday!
Also took the car out this weekend. Did 300 miles round trip, single tank of gas with a couple gallons left over. Only difference between how I drive on street vs track is just changing rear wheels. Proud of this car.
old photos, and she was dirty girl right there. Stock rockers I am using. What ram air is that?
Those valve covers are sweet! Where do coil packs go? Why haven't I seen any nitrous passes?? The ram air is the chrs1313 pro stock ram air! I am going to try and rotate it and modify it slightly to use the passenger bumper hole on my Camaro instead of center of the bumper.
Mounted the coils on the k member some harness extensions. To be honest, life happens and haven’t made a nitrous pass haha. But almost time! Valve covers are nasty performance billet covers.
Nick is still around?! What's up man?? How's your car looking? Didn't you get a stroker setup for yours? Thanks man! I hope it's got more left in it.
Hey man,
It’s giving me trouble with consistency when I’m index racing and I’m fighting the way the car acts off the starting line but it’s still running hard lol.
I wanted to do a forged shortblock at one time but decided against it. I decided to put my trickflow 215’s on the stock ls1 shortblock. Flycut the pistons a lot for a llsr cam with 244 and 253 duration at .050. It’s making a lot of power now but just trying to get the car to act right.
I’ve been as fast as 10.58 in the quarter on a nice cold day with it but I haven’t tried to get the most out of it yet. It will run 10.70’s at 127 to 128 all day long in 3000 da weather with a higher rpm launch. The 2.66 first gear just kills the launch with it.
Yours for sure has more in it, you should watch and get some info from the coyote stock guys in the nmra. Their first gear ratio (stick cars)they use and how they use the clutch tamer off the starting line seems to make these cars run some killer et’s with a sealed tune and sealed crate engine.
Mounted the coils on the k member some harness extensions. To be honest, life happens and haven’t made a nitrous pass haha. But almost time! Valve covers are nasty performance billet covers.
Do you have any more information or part numbers for the harness extensions? I kind of like the idea of getting my coil packs off my valve covers. Seen a ton of people do it but never really considered it.
Man you gotta let me know when you make some nitrous passes! I wanna see video!
Hey man,
It’s giving me trouble with consistency when I’m index racing and I’m fighting the way the car acts off the starting line but it’s still running hard lol.
I wanted to do a forged shortblock at one time but decided against it. I decided to put my trickflow 215’s on the stock ls1 shortblock. Flycut the pistons a lot for a llsr cam with 244 and 253 duration at .050. It’s making a lot of power now but just trying to get the car to act right.
I’ve been as fast as 10.58 in the quarter on a nice cold day with it but I haven’t tried to get the most out of it yet. It will run 10.70’s at 127 to 128 all day long in 3000 da weather with a higher rpm launch. The 2.66 first gear just kills the launch with it.
Yours for sure has more in it, you should watch and get some info from the coyote stock guys in the nmra. Their first gear ratio (stick cars)they use and how they use the clutch tamer off the starting line seems to make these cars run some killer et’s with a sealed tune and sealed crate engine.
Oh nice! I love seeing some SBE ls1 action. Ya gotta give up that GTO transmission or pack some more gear in that thing! Still running 4.10s? I have heard they were using a member on Tech's clutch tamer device. I will reach out to him eventually and see if he can help me any.
I would love to get a 1.2 short time or 1.1x someday..
Do you have any more information or part numbers for the harness extensions? I kind of like the idea of getting my coil packs off my valve covers. Seen a ton of people do it but never really considered it.
Man you gotta let me know when you make some nitrous passes! I wanna see video!
I just look on Amazon and find about the length of harness you need. For example
Oh nice! I love seeing some SBE ls1 action. Ya gotta give up that GTO transmission or pack some more gear in that thing! Still running 4.10s? I have heard they were using a member on Tech's clutch tamer device. I will reach out to him eventually and see if he can help me any.
I would love to get a 1.2 short time or 1.1x someday..
Well I wish I had the gto trans gearing, I had the original t56 faceplated by rpm and thats what I’m running now. The 2.66 1st gear makes it to where I have to slip the clutch too long, which I’m hating. The gto trans has been sitting up, needs to be gone through.
I switched to a 4.30 gear but was running a 28 inch tire with it. Killed it off the line with the 28’s so I went with a 26 inch et drag for this year.
The main reason they run the tamer is because they have to run a diaphragm style pressure plate. The clutch tamer takes the hard hit off the initial hit of the clutch dump slipping it then the cylinder they use brings the clutch in gradually till the clutch is locked up. Keeps from blowing the tires off and bogging the engine down. It works just takes time to get it adjusted right.
The thing about the clutch tamer is that it’s easy to burn up a clutch up if it’s not used properly.
I also don’t like to use the clutch pedal for shifting when using it. It works off the pedal so it rengages it when pushing the pedal down. Since mine is faceplated all I have to do is let off the gas to shift.
Well I wish I had the gto trans gearing, I had the original t56 faceplated by rpm and thats what I’m running now. The 2.66 1st gear makes it to where I have to slip the clutch too long, which I’m hating. The gto trans has been sitting up, needs to be gone through.
I switched to a 4.30 gear but was running a 28 inch tire with it. Killed it off the line with the 28’s so I went with a 26 inch et drag for this year.
The main reason they run the tamer is because they have to run a diaphragm style pressure plate. The clutch tamer takes the hard hit off the initial hit of the clutch dump slipping it then the cylinder they use brings the clutch in gradually till the clutch is locked up. Keeps from blowing the tires off and bogging the engine down. It works just takes time to get it adjusted right.
Oh yeah that’s right, GTO is 2.97 first gear or something. 2.66 is fine, go 4.56-4.88 with a 28” and you’ll have no problem off the line if suspension is decent and on a good tire. I just wanna know what it takes to go 1.2x on a slick or should I be on a radial? I know the fast stick shift guys are on radials but I’m not sure my suspension could replicate the same results on a radial without being upgraded.
I feel like it would be a lot harder to get the car dialed in for a radial tire with a stick. Radial tires seem to be faster but most of them are heavier than slicks. I know the Hoosier radials are a bit lighter than the mickeys.
The coyote stock guys have to run a bias ply on theirs per rules so not sure how hard it is to set it up for them. Most if not all the factory stock guys running a stick have radials. Factory stock class is almost the same as coyote stock as in trans rules and such just lower powered engine type rules. They seem too have the radials working good.
I think the 1.2x is possible but you’ll more than likely be tripping the 60ft with the back tires to do it. It’s gonna need a lot of (oomph) off the line to get there lol.
Im pretty happy with these 26 inch et drags. They work well even tho with the 4.30 I’m running out of gear. I went some high 1.4x’s at the Florida race launching at 6000k with it. I know I can get that down but I’ve had to lower my launch rpm to try and quit redlighting lol. I didn’t have the wheel wells really setup for the 28’s so the rear was raised too much. Also had a bit of rubbing when the rear end torqued under power.
The black magic clutch setup I looked at was around $2500-$3000 to get into. I’d need a badass rebuilt on my t56 and the clutch. Be around a solid 10k to get into a real nice setup. Was a bit expensive for me at the moment.
My Coyote Stock 'tamer customers dead hook their bias plys at NMRA events, they can typically bolt a set of radials on for non-sanctioned events and are able to stick them with no other changes. Off the shelf clutches are competitive in that class. It's not so much about the clutch itself, more about the rate that the clutch pulls the engine down against WOT. Pull the engine down too fast, you get bog/spin. Pull it down just right, engine stays up where it makes power without excessive clutch slip.
If you guys plan to use nitrous, the Hitmaster would be a far better choice than the 'tamer as it has the ability to be active on launch only. Far easier than the 'tamer to dial in, the digital timer also makes it much harder to burn up a clutch if you miss the setup. Add a pressure gauge to the system, you can then easily adjust launch intensity for no-prep or NA launches.
Agreed. All info is much appreciated, so thank you to the various contributors. I was working on the ram air last night. Decided to remove the front SS grille and use the existing hole for the ram air to avoid cutting.
Will take cut the piping today and drill the hole for the IAT sensor and should be good to go for tomorrow. Rain today but track should be open tomorrow night for tnt. PUMPED!
I have been in the talks with Martin Smallwood and I may or may not have something in the works.
04-26-2021, 08:19 AM
. I didn’t have the wheel wells really setup for the 28’s so the rear was raised too much. Also had a bit of rubbing when the rear end torqued under power.