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Old Dec 8, 2004 | 01:26 PM
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Default Torque arm and 60ft questions

I need to lower my 60’ time (need to get into the 10s) and from reading the many posts about adjustable torque arms that do not mount to the transmission tail shaft it seems that replacing my stock TA might be a good idea. But before I drop a chunk of change on one I would like to get an idea if it will really help.

My existing setup is a 98 Z28 A4 W/4000 stall and 3.73 gears with a race weight of 3350. I run skinnies and slicks. My existing suspension is Hal Rs with Hal springs up front, Hals on the rear, Spohn 1” sway bar, BMR LCA and LCA relocation brackets, and a BMR Kmember, and a airbag in the RR.
The car pulls consistent low to mid 1.5 60’ times but I need to get in the 1.48-1.50 range.

Will the addition of an adjustable torque arm that does not mount to the transmission get me there?

How do people pull 1.45 60ft times in these cars?



Thanks

John
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Old Dec 8, 2004 | 02:37 PM
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I would like to know how much it would help as well.
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Old Dec 8, 2004 | 06:24 PM
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Not sure if it will help, but you times are impressive. Still running a 10bolt?
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Old Dec 8, 2004 | 06:30 PM
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Originally Posted by JNorris
I need to lower my 60’ time (need to get into the 10s) and from reading the many posts about adjustable torque arms that do not mount to the transmission tail shaft it seems that replacing my stock TA might be a good idea. But before I drop a chunk of change on one I would like to get an idea if it will really help.

My existing setup is a 98 Z28 A4 W/4000 stall and 3.73 gears with a race weight of 3350. I run skinnies and slicks. My existing suspension is Hal Rs with Hal springs up front, Hals on the rear, Spohn 1” sway bar, BMR LCA and LCA relocation brackets, and a BMR Kmember, and a airbag in the RR.
The car pulls consistent low to mid 1.5 60’ times but I need to get in the 1.48-1.50 range.

Will the addition of an adjustable torque arm that does not mount to the transmission get me there?

How do people pull 1.45 60ft times in these cars?



Thanks

John
I have Regular Hals in front with stock springs, stock rear springs and shocks, stock rear swaybar,BAD Z LCA's, and a Spohn crossmember mounted TA. I have a H/C car that weighs 3420 and i run 1.45 60 fts with it. I previously went a 1.49 60 with the stock TA in a little worse weather so i dont know how much it was really worth. Oh, i run a PT 4400, 26x10 M/T slicks, and 4.10 8.8 rear. Good luck to you.

Phil
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Old Dec 8, 2004 | 07:36 PM
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gearing and a high stall converter with excelent traction should get you there
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Old Dec 8, 2004 | 09:10 PM
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Originally Posted by PHIL H
I have Regular Hals in front with stock springs, stock rear springs and shocks, stock rear swaybar,BAD Z LCA's, and a Spohn crossmember mounted TA. I have a H/C car that weighs 3420 and i run 1.45 60 fts with it. I previously went a 1.49 60 with the stock TA in a little worse weather so i dont know how much it was really worth. Oh, i run a PT 4400, 26x10 M/T slicks, and 4.10 8.8 rear. Good luck to you.

Phil

Thanks for the info. Man you have a 60 footing animal on your hands! A 1.49 on the stock TA is great. I think I will need gears to get in the 1.48 60' range.

How does your car run in the 1/8 and 1/4?

What is your engine combo?

Thanks

John
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Old Dec 8, 2004 | 09:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Slacker
Not sure if it will help, but you times are impressive. Still running a 10bolt?

Thanks


Yep still the stock 10 bolt.
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Old Dec 8, 2004 | 09:15 PM
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Yep, I used, rather abused, my stock TA, ran it in the 1.41 range. One run, I clipped a 1.42 short, pulled the fronts off the ground and then mid track the car got a little out of the groove suddenly, and let off. Heard an aweful clunking on accel/decel and found I had almost ripped the shell for the front stock TA mount bushing apart. I bought a Prothane replacement and junk yard housing, no problems since then, but I know I can go sub 1.4s with the pinion angle set and no flex.

Good luck.
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Old Dec 8, 2004 | 09:23 PM
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Originally Posted by CAT3
Yep, I used, rather abused, my stock TA, ran it in the 1.41 range. One run, I clipped a 1.42 short, pulled the fronts off the ground and then mid track the car got a little out of the groove suddenly, and let off. Heard an aweful clunking on accel/decel and found I had almost ripped the shell for the front stock TA mount bushing apart. I bought a Prothane replacement and junk yard housing, no problems since then, but I know I can go sub 1.4s with the pinion angle set and no flex.

Good luck.

How do you set the pinion angle with the stock TA?

That is no flex in the TA?


John
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Old Dec 8, 2004 | 10:38 PM
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The best I got outta my stock TA, 10bolt, 4l60e was a 1.51 on a 26 et drag durring an NA pass.

Switched over to an Alston TA, 9inch, TH400 w/brake and went 1.42 on a 28" hoosier on a nitrous pass. With a little more tweaking I think I can dip into the 1.3's
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Old Dec 8, 2004 | 11:46 PM
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I never set the angle w/ OEM TA, I was saying I know I can get better once I get a TA and set the Angle, my bad. Although, when I was replacing the bushing and housing, I was looking at welding on an extension to the mount so I could adjust the angle, just didnt think it would be worth the effort and didnt think it would last to long.

badass 2002 z28--- How long did it take for you to install the Alston? I got a sale going thru Phil at FLP and will be ordering one Jan 1st. It wil be about 5 months before I can install it, but figure get the inside scoop now. How do you like it also? Solid, no noise, etc...
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Old Dec 9, 2004 | 02:05 AM
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Well considering for the install you have to remove the front seats and pull back the carpet to drill the holes it's quite time consuming. Other than that it's great for anyone running an x-pipe like myself. It's definately a nice piece for the price.
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Old Dec 9, 2004 | 02:26 AM
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Pulling the seats only a few minutes now that the 6pt is in, cut some reliefs around the mounting areas and removed a little padding too.
Does it come with a template showing where to drill for the underside plate?
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Old Dec 9, 2004 | 02:40 AM
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You have to mount it and mark the holes yourself
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Old Dec 9, 2004 | 03:21 AM
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Thanks.
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Old Dec 9, 2004 | 08:08 AM
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Need more gear and more TC.
Less weight would help too.
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Old Dec 9, 2004 | 11:56 AM
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Converter is much more important than torque arm. Your car runs strong as it is, but a 4400 would work better at the track. My friend went 10.98 SI with a a Yank 4400TP, he tried different techniques but stalling it up to 3000 and getting some flash out of it seemed to work the best.

If the car leaves crooked putting a better rear swaybar would help.
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Old Dec 9, 2004 | 01:48 PM
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I'd go with a looser converter and 4.10 gears.
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Old Dec 9, 2004 | 02:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Pro Stock John
Converter is much more important than torque arm. Your car runs strong as it is, but a 4400 would work better at the track. My friend went 10.98 SI with a a Yank 4400TP, he tried different techniques but stalling it up to 3000 and getting some flash out of it seemed to work the best.

If the car leaves crooked putting a better rear swaybar would help.

PSJ – Thanks for the reply.
Magnus did but with a 2900lb race weight.

I might have to try a YPT4400 and see how it does and maybe some 4.10s as well.




John
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Old Dec 9, 2004 | 03:18 PM
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So is a sway bar a better investment? Does the pan hard rod do anything to help out of the hole?
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