Attention---->!PS Delete procedures!!!
Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 7,303
Likes: 4
From: Delray Beach, Fl.
Attention---->!PS Delete procedures!!! I see some of u guys are using ALUM. Russell fittings when looping the lines along with regular braided line.I'm not saying u shouldnt do this way but IMO these fittings are NOT rated for the psi...
I'd run these STEEL fittings instead:
1)Aeroquip FCM2608 16X1.5 #6 Fitting
1)Aeroquip FCM2609 18X1.5 #6 Fitting
1)Aeroquip FCC0603 3FT Teflon #6 Hose
2)Aeroquip FCM1122 90 #6 Hose Ends
This is the way I did mine after looking at the alum ends/fittings and wrong line some guys are using.IMO its a good idea to go this way as I'd hate to see u get power steering fluid all over your front tires at 120+ if your fitting/line failed...
I realize your not under the same psi as a working PS but when u turn the wheel comming down the return road or drive your car on the hwy. it could eventually fracture a line/fitting.
I've converterd my Trans cooler lines this way too.
Just alittle safety info for u guys that like to race your cars....
I'd run these STEEL fittings instead:
1)Aeroquip FCM2608 16X1.5 #6 Fitting
1)Aeroquip FCM2609 18X1.5 #6 Fitting
1)Aeroquip FCC0603 3FT Teflon #6 Hose
2)Aeroquip FCM1122 90 #6 Hose Ends
This is the way I did mine after looking at the alum ends/fittings and wrong line some guys are using.IMO its a good idea to go this way as I'd hate to see u get power steering fluid all over your front tires at 120+ if your fitting/line failed...
I realize your not under the same psi as a working PS but when u turn the wheel comming down the return road or drive your car on the hwy. it could eventually fracture a line/fitting.
I've converterd my Trans cooler lines this way too.
Just alittle safety info for u guys that like to race your cars....
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 596
Likes: 0
From: Downers Grove,IL
JS,
as far as I know there is little to no pressure in the lines once you remove the pump. I had nothing more than a piece of rubber hose slipped over the cut steel lines for a couple of years.
Steve
as far as I know there is little to no pressure in the lines once you remove the pump. I had nothing more than a piece of rubber hose slipped over the cut steel lines for a couple of years.
Steve
mine is looped and hose clamped, took 4 seconds. been that way for a few years and hundreds of passes and a few thousand street miles with no signs of problem at all.
good info regardless JS
good info regardless JS
Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 7,303
Likes: 4
From: Delray Beach, Fl.
Well for 20 bucks more than the alum fittings I'll just do it this way and be able to sleep at night,Just an observation 
FWIW,clamps on race cars is BS...
All it takes is one to fail and your in BIG TROUBLE,its your car....
FWIW,clamps on race cars is BS...
All it takes is one to fail and your in BIG TROUBLE,its your car....
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Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 8,484
Likes: 0
From: Cecil County Raceway!!!
Originally Posted by WhtLT1
Does anyone have a picture of what the heck you all are talkin about? 
1) keep crap out of the system
2) allow some circulation of the fluid
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 8,484
Likes: 0
From: Cecil County Raceway!!!
Originally Posted by JS
correctamungo 
Brian do u know if the Firebird hatch is 30lb lighter than the TA hatch.
Brian do u know if the Firebird hatch is 30lb lighter than the TA hatch.
I can't see the wing being 30 lbs
Teching In
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 16
Likes: 0
Without the pump, there is equal and opposite pressure and vacuum created by the piston/seals within the rack. Looping the lines together can be as simple as tieing the lines together with a plastic m/m connector and a few clamps. The reason behind this is so that fluid can transfer from one side of the rack to the other while keeping the seals lubricated so seal failure doesn't occur. Only problem with tieing the lines together is you cannot bleed air out of the lines. This can lead to failure of the seals overtime and spongy feeling in the rack from a mixture of air and fluid.
An easy alternative is to keep the reservoir and run both sides of the lines to the reservoir and keep it filled with fluid. This can be easily modified by using standard rubber lines (fluid approved) and run them to each nipple on the reservoir.
Fluid will easily transfer from one side of the rack to the other while purging any air within the system just it was setup stock. Your just removing the power assisted high-pressure introduced from the pump.
An easy alternative is to keep the reservoir and run both sides of the lines to the reservoir and keep it filled with fluid. This can be easily modified by using standard rubber lines (fluid approved) and run them to each nipple on the reservoir.
Fluid will easily transfer from one side of the rack to the other while purging any air within the system just it was setup stock. Your just removing the power assisted high-pressure introduced from the pump.