Whats the cure for Squatting?
#1
Whats the cure for Squatting?
These are a few pices of my car. It runs
60ft..1.58
1/8...7.07@97mph
1/4...11.14@120mph
This is All Motor. The car has a ford 8.8, spool with 3.73s on 28x11.5x15 ET streets. I have QA1s all around, front set at 4, rear on 10!. The rear stock springs have been cut. BMR adjustable torque arm and adjustable race LCA, relocator bracket. And the car does have a Wolfe Swaybar. Car has a th350 with a 3800 stall. Please help!
60ft..1.58
1/8...7.07@97mph
1/4...11.14@120mph
This is All Motor. The car has a ford 8.8, spool with 3.73s on 28x11.5x15 ET streets. I have QA1s all around, front set at 4, rear on 10!. The rear stock springs have been cut. BMR adjustable torque arm and adjustable race LCA, relocator bracket. And the car does have a Wolfe Swaybar. Car has a th350 with a 3800 stall. Please help!
Last edited by Charles Cyrus; 04-23-2009 at 07:21 PM.
#4
Not a suspension expert, but I would think by cutting the springs it would make them weaker resulting in more squat. Also, by cutting the springs it will lower the car. If the car is squatting uneven, put an airbag in the passenger side spring. If not, then maybe an anti-roll bar. I think it might be the springs though because Ive read you want a stiffer spring in the back.
#5
Squatting may be a sign of wrong suspension geometry
or it may be a sign of effective weight transfer onto the
rear springs. Have to figure out which.
You want the car to roll back onto the rear. What you
don't want, is for the rear to try and lift on its own
toward the body. Torque arm and maybe LCA relocation
brackets are what set that up.
A high center of gravity helps weight transfer. Lowering
the car will take this away as well as messing with your
rear suspension geometry, to the worse.
or it may be a sign of effective weight transfer onto the
rear springs. Have to figure out which.
You want the car to roll back onto the rear. What you
don't want, is for the rear to try and lift on its own
toward the body. Torque arm and maybe LCA relocation
brackets are what set that up.
A high center of gravity helps weight transfer. Lowering
the car will take this away as well as messing with your
rear suspension geometry, to the worse.
#7
Thanks for the quick response guys. The car is squating equally and I do have a Wolfe swaybar ( I'm old, I forgot). I love low stance, but I think I would like going faster better. Will put stock springs back on this weekend, will keep you posted.
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#9
Originally Posted by gator's 99TA
i cut 1.53 60' and dont come close to squating that much. i have BMR lowering springs and stock shocks. you try an airbag in the RR? is the car squating equaly or rolling over?
I have those same springs now but was thinking about going back to stock, got bilstien HD's too out back. Do you like those rear springs? Do they work good with the slicks as far as fitment etc? I'd be happy with a 1.53 60 for sure.
#13
Originally Posted by Charles Cyrus
These are a few pices of my car. It runs
60ft..1.58
1/8...7.07@97mph
1/4...11.17@120mph
This is All Motor. The car has a ford 8.8, spool with 3.73s on 28x11.5x15 ET streets. I have QA1s all around, front set at 4, rear on 10!. The rear stock springs have been cut. BMR adjustable torque arm and adjustable race LCA, relocator bracket. And the car does have a Wolfe Swaybar. Car has a th350 with a 3800 stall. Please help!
60ft..1.58
1/8...7.07@97mph
1/4...11.17@120mph
This is All Motor. The car has a ford 8.8, spool with 3.73s on 28x11.5x15 ET streets. I have QA1s all around, front set at 4, rear on 10!. The rear stock springs have been cut. BMR adjustable torque arm and adjustable race LCA, relocator bracket. And the car does have a Wolfe Swaybar. Car has a th350 with a 3800 stall. Please help!
#14
Instead of cutting the rear springs, replace them with some lowering springs. If you got the stock springs too hot when you cut them, you may have taken the strength out of them. Then put your LCA's in the bottom hole (you do have the ones with two holes, right? If not, you need them). That will move the instant center back, lift the rear of the car off of the rearend at launch, and plant the tires much better. It makes a big difference. Attached are a before (#1) and after (#2) of my car. The result is much better and more consistent 60' times that are not so dependent on perfect track conditions.
Last edited by BLK02WS6; 05-14-2005 at 03:48 PM.
#15
Charles,
Keep us posted. I am in a similar boat as you. I REALLY like the low look, but it is hurting at the track. Bad geometry as stated above. I have coil overs on all 4 , and am going to try to set the ride height 1/2" taller to see what happens next weekend. Currently I have BMR lca brackets in bottom hole, but the lca barely points uphill at standstill. I think this is where our problem lies.
I ran 1.60 60~ once this weekend, but mostly ~1.64 or worse. This really hurts when trying to bracket race....
I will report back next week with my findings.
Jennibella,
Real nice light if it was real. Some tracks, the tree will not go red in a bye-run. At least the one I was at this weekend did not. After launch, I was thinking that had to be red..... turned out to be -.020 on timeslip.
'J 98 t/a
11.82 @ 113.95 w/ 1.66
best 60 - 1.60 at 1/8th mile, best mph 115.3
Iron block 369ci 8.9:1 n/a
Yank ss3800 3.23 3650 raceweight
http://j.cz28.com
jman812@hotmail.com
Keep us posted. I am in a similar boat as you. I REALLY like the low look, but it is hurting at the track. Bad geometry as stated above. I have coil overs on all 4 , and am going to try to set the ride height 1/2" taller to see what happens next weekend. Currently I have BMR lca brackets in bottom hole, but the lca barely points uphill at standstill. I think this is where our problem lies.
I ran 1.60 60~ once this weekend, but mostly ~1.64 or worse. This really hurts when trying to bracket race....
I will report back next week with my findings.
Jennibella,
Real nice light if it was real. Some tracks, the tree will not go red in a bye-run. At least the one I was at this weekend did not. After launch, I was thinking that had to be red..... turned out to be -.020 on timeslip.
'J 98 t/a
11.82 @ 113.95 w/ 1.66
best 60 - 1.60 at 1/8th mile, best mph 115.3
Iron block 369ci 8.9:1 n/a
Yank ss3800 3.23 3650 raceweight
http://j.cz28.com
jman812@hotmail.com
#16
Thanks guys, but if you look at the video it was a real reaction time. I was racing a high 8-second nostalgic dragster in time trials and got the holeshot. Here in California we do not have a no red light policy on bye runs, so I have no idea what you are talking about?
#17
I went out this weekend. I raised the height about 3/4" all around. Seemed to help, but maybe I still have things to work out. Attached are 2 pics from yesterday. Looks like it is rolling over a tad to the pass side. I can either turn up the spring on that side, or maybe pre-load the rear sway bar. Combination of both ? Anybody have ideas here ? I have the stock sway bar in the rear (front is removed).
Jennibella: I completely missed the video link.... I thought the word was describing the slo-mo below it. Looks like the tire slamms down hard. So your r/t was .00_ ?
'J
jman812@hotmail.com
Jennibella: I completely missed the video link.... I thought the word was describing the slo-mo below it. Looks like the tire slamms down hard. So your r/t was .00_ ?
'J
jman812@hotmail.com
Last edited by J 98ta; 05-23-2005 at 03:19 PM.
#18
Originally Posted by Charles Cyrus
These are a few pices of my car. It runs
60ft..1.58
1/8...7.07@97mph
1/4...11.17@120mph
This is All Motor. The car has a ford 8.8, spool with 3.73s on 28x11.5x15 ET streets. I have QA1s all around, front set at 4, rear on 10!. The rear stock springs have been cut. BMR adjustable torque arm and adjustable race LCA, relocator bracket. And the car does have a Wolfe Swaybar. Car has a th350 with a 3800 stall. Please help!
60ft..1.58
1/8...7.07@97mph
1/4...11.17@120mph
This is All Motor. The car has a ford 8.8, spool with 3.73s on 28x11.5x15 ET streets. I have QA1s all around, front set at 4, rear on 10!. The rear stock springs have been cut. BMR adjustable torque arm and adjustable race LCA, relocator bracket. And the car does have a Wolfe Swaybar. Car has a th350 with a 3800 stall. Please help!
Mike
#20
11 & 7 Second Clubs
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 1,299
Likes: 0
From: Motorhome, Freeways, Truckstops, Pits
The obvious observation is for you to tighten-up on the front struts to reduce the amount of travel. Start at full tight, and gradually back off on them until you get what you need.
Originally Posted by Charles Cyrus
These are a few pices of my car. It runs
60ft..1.58
1/8...7.07@97mph
1/4...11.17@120mph
This is All Motor. The car has a ford 8.8, spool with 3.73s on 28x11.5x15 ET streets. I have QA1s all around, front set at 4, rear on 10!. The rear stock springs have been cut. BMR adjustable torque arm and adjustable race LCA, relocator bracket. And the car does have a Wolfe Swaybar. Car has a th350 with a 3800 stall. Please help!
60ft..1.58
1/8...7.07@97mph
1/4...11.17@120mph
This is All Motor. The car has a ford 8.8, spool with 3.73s on 28x11.5x15 ET streets. I have QA1s all around, front set at 4, rear on 10!. The rear stock springs have been cut. BMR adjustable torque arm and adjustable race LCA, relocator bracket. And the car does have a Wolfe Swaybar. Car has a th350 with a 3800 stall. Please help!