I currently have the Spohn torque arm with the front driveshaft loop and a H-pipe true dual system and would like to swap over to a X true dual system, but need a torque to allow one. I tried to get the shop who built my exhuast to fab up a X setup using the Dr. Gas X-junction I used to have, but couldnt do it, so I had to sell it. Anyhow, is there a torque arm out there that has the front driveshaft loop that is intended for drag use that will clear a X true dual system? It needs to at least be good for mid 1.4s and possibly 1.3s in the near future. This torque arm will have to suit me for later modifications too, maybe low 1.3s and 9s. If there isnt one out there that has a front driveshaft loop, then one that will at least allow me to run one. I've done the searches, but my question is a bit different because I need a torque arm that is for drag use and will take some abuse. Will also need it to have a front driveshaft loop or allow me to run one. Thanks.

 

This a drag only car right? Put some race mufflers at the collector and don't worry about the X or Y or H. Then get whatever TA you want...I suggest the Madman or BMR Xtreme.

 

Yes, drag only car. You have a pretty good idea. I'm running Dynomax bullets with my current H true dual setup now. Will running bullets after the collector dumped hurt the performance? Would I gain anything over my current setup?

Anyone out there running running bullets with no X, H, or Y at all?

If I went that route, then I would want the lightest yet strongest piece out there because my Spohn torque arm is one heavy SOB.

 

I ran some extensions(10") and some flowmaster single chambers w/o any x or h pipe. Don't think it hurt TOO much and sounded just as nasty as my current car with the X

 

http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerc...07&prmenbr=361

It's a shorter unit but will definitely clear. But if you're drag car only why not just get some drag mufflers right off the collectors and dumps?

If you have the room go madman.

Nate

 

He would blow that torque arm to pieces I'm sure! lol

 

the Alston one will clear

 

This is true, its just like the one that is offered by Jegs, but its more proven I'd say

 

I thought the alston piece and the jegs adjustable were pretty much identical.
Nate

 

I'm sure they are, I've seen the Alston piece first hand on people's cars but I guess I'm just a person that likes to know something's proven you know. You never know sometimes with that Jegs stuff

 

The dumps right off the collectors sounds like a really good idea. It'll be lighter for sure, but one thing I would like to know is how will it affect the performance? Good? Bad? From what I've read here on the board, the X setup puts down more power than a H setup, but were talking a few hp. I wonder if too much flow can hurt it. If I went that route, then I could run any torque arm out there, but I would be looking for something that is lightweight yet strong. The Spohn I have with the front loop is strong, but is heavy. I know of several torque arms out there, but I'm sure there's someone out there who has done the research, which is the lightest yet strongest that has a front driveshaft loop or that will allow you to run a seperate one?

 

i run a Global West trac link torque arm and 3" x-pipe duals with full size mufflers dumped at the axle...plenty of clearance and the torque arm has a provision built into it too add a safety loop.

the TA is definately a heavy duty piece! road racers seem too love this arm...my intentions are drag and will be putting it thru the paces too see how it holds up in this environment

 

i have the alston one, mine clears perfectly!

 

Backpressure doesn't make torqe, scavenging makes tq. That's one of the biggest misconceptions out there today. Why do you think guys pick up power and tq when using a cutout?

With a really nice header setup (qtp 1 7/8") with maybe a true race muffler dumped you will pick up power across the board. Plus you'll be able to drop another 15 lbs from the exhaust you wont have to run.

Go with race mufflers and dumps, and then pick up the alston or Jegs arm. You'll be golden.

Nate

 

Right now I'm running Kooks 1 3/4 stainless steel race headers, but thought of maybe getting a set of stepped 1 3/4 to 1 7/8 or maybe just a straight 1 7/8. Would it be ok to run the 1 3/4 for now? Also, would I run the mufflers right off the collectors or have piping a certain distance/length before the mufflers? What do you consider a true race muffler? I have the dynomax bullets.

 

Dynomax bullets are probably too big if you have the 18" ones that come standard with most true duals. May work for you though just have to mock it up and see.

If you're max effort stock displacement 1-3/4" are fine. The kooks flow great so you'll be fine.

http://store.summitracing.com/defaul...=egnsearch.asp part number WLK-24222

Or if you're really crazy you could do with p/n wlk-24227 and run a dump. Pretty loud though.

Something like these would work if yours don't. You'll probably want to find something around 12" which would be very similar to these. I think these are what my buddy jason (Sardog46) runs and have worked for him to 10.40 or so and i think he is at 3300 lb raceweight.

Nate

Nate

 

Where can i see pictures of the alston driveshaft loop? I need one to clear my X pipe also.

 

When I had my true duals made, I provided the bullets which were the WLK-24222. They had a 16 1/2 overall length. I'll probably have them cut off of the exhaust now and have them rewelded to the new setup. If I was to upgrade later, hopefully sooner, what size header would be best for a max effort cam only car that will be heads/cam later?

 

Those mufflers should work out just fine. You'd probably want to keep it at 1-3/4" for your headers as the gains going to the 1-7/8" are really only viable for larger cubes. If you were at 380+ cubes i would go to a stepped design and over 400 i would go to 1-7/8"

Im sure you'll get a lot of differing opinions on this subject though and this is only mine. Search around in the dyno section for results and you'll see a few guys with bigger cubes still only pick up like 7 hp and dropped about 10 lb tq. The tradeoffs are really only viable for a big cube race only setup and even then i still wouldn't go that big unless i was on a really big bore (4.150 or so).

I'd keep the money you'll spend on a new header and just run with these. They will act differently anyway with such a short exhaust path and you can use the resulting money you save on fuel and tires. The rest you can waste.

Nate

 

Would I have the mufflers right after the collectors or have some piping/extension before I run the muffler? I bought a set of ball & socket flanges (stainless steel) from Bassani that I'll be keeping. The ball is on the header collectors and I'll have the socket cut off and rewelded to the new piping. I was thinking maybe some piping before the muffler turned down and outside away from the car.