cheap 6 speed ET tricks?
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well I bought myself a 2002 6 speed TA as a Daily driver about 3-4 months ago, and last week did a thunder racing 230/224 .575/.562 110LSA cam and a set of flowtech long tubes, a flowtech ORY, and hooker catback.. oh and whisper lid, no free/cheap boltons yet besides the lid..
All I could get on the dyno after tuning was 360RWHP, with an 11.8:1 AFR(415hp crank) alright I guess for cheap headers, and no boltons yet then I ran it at the track expecting about a 12.80 @ 113 or better... and could only manage a dismal 13.06 @ 111.2 on the very last pass...
what are some cheap ways to increase traction, and hp to get better ET I have a new set of BFG G-Force Sport 255s out back, best non drag tire I could find (Daily Driver) and I cant get better than a 2.3x 60' on them on average, although I got one freak 2.17 I missed 3rd on that pass and ruined the run.
So far I did the FRA! and took the ported maf ends of my LT1 (thanks for the advice james!) and will also remove the front sway bar in a bit here.. any other ideas?
All I could get on the dyno after tuning was 360RWHP, with an 11.8:1 AFR(415hp crank) alright I guess for cheap headers, and no boltons yet then I ran it at the track expecting about a 12.80 @ 113 or better... and could only manage a dismal 13.06 @ 111.2 on the very last pass...
what are some cheap ways to increase traction, and hp to get better ET I have a new set of BFG G-Force Sport 255s out back, best non drag tire I could find (Daily Driver) and I cant get better than a 2.3x 60' on them on average, although I got one freak 2.17 I missed 3rd on that pass and ruined the run.
So far I did the FRA! and took the ported maf ends of my LT1 (thanks for the advice james!) and will also remove the front sway bar in a bit here.. any other ideas?
#2
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Weight reduction, take out as much as youre willing to put back in. Front sway bar, passenger and rear seats, floormats, spare and jack, etc.
Deflate your rear tires a little lower than normal. Start around 25 and experiment. Over inflate your front tires to 40# or so.
POWERSHIFT
Could also try the pantyhose for an airfilter trick.
Deflate your rear tires a little lower than normal. Start around 25 and experiment. Over inflate your front tires to 40# or so.
POWERSHIFT
Could also try the pantyhose for an airfilter trick.
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You could also try to get your A/F ratio up from 11.8:1.
12.8-13.0 is better for the track.
12.8-13.0 is better for the track.
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2013 Corvette Grand Sport A6 LME forged 416, Greg Good ported TFS 255 LS3 heads, 222/242 .629"/.604" 121LSA Pat G blower cam, ARH 1 7/8" headers, ESC Novi 1500 Supercharger w/8 rib direct drive conversion, 747rwhp/709rwtq on 93 octane, 801rwhp/735rwtq on race fuel, 10.1 @ 147.25mph 1/4 mile, 174.7mph Half Mile.
2016 Corvette Z51 M7 Magnuson Heartbeat 2300 supercharger, TSP LT headers, Pat G tuned, 667rwhp, 662rwtq, 191mph TX Mile.
2009.5 Pontiac G8 GT 6.0L, A6, AFR 230v2 heads. 506rwhp/442rwtq. 11.413 @ 121.29mph 1/4 mile, 168.7mph TX Mile
2000 Pewter Ram Air Trans Am M6 heads/cam 508 rwhp/445 rwtq SAE, 183.092 TX Mile
2018 Cadillac Escalade 6.2L A10 Pat G tuned.
LS1,LS2,LS3,LS7,LT1 Custom Camshaft Specialist For custom camshaft help press here.
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Better traction invest in some drag radials. Either nittos or M/T dragradials. Lower control arms would help also and a torque arm. These tires last about a good 10k-20k deppending on driver. I have had both, the nittos are better in the rain than the MT's. They both hook really good but the M/t's are better. I feel a little better launch. They come in 16 and 17 wheels I have them on 17s by 9.5 these sould help alot. You should will get an easy 1.99 or lower 60ft
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Definately get that thing tuned ASAP. Then like the others have said, get that 60ft down. I can pull consistant high 1.9s-2.0s on the Yokahama AVS ES100 tires I am running.
Once you get all that down, then learn to powershift your car. That will net you .1-.2 and 1-2 mph.
Once you get all that down, then learn to powershift your car. That will net you .1-.2 and 1-2 mph.
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I wouldn't powershift unless you plan on upgrading your T-56 anytime soon. Get drag radials and a 12 bolt or 9" and launch from anywhere from 4 to 6 grand. Gears would probably help you out too since its a 6-speed.
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well today im getting the Drag radials, nitto NT555R DRs in 245(all they offer for 16" rims) and ill let that clutch slipping thing have a try
what exactly do I do? rev to 2500 and slip it out and nail it?
what exactly do I do? rev to 2500 and slip it out and nail it?
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the nitto's have to be heated extensively to have any kind of good launch traction. i run 20#'s but have hooked perfectly in them with 24#, i just think the tire wears better at 20# and hooks slightly better with less burnout.
i recently put my battery in the spare tire area, took some time but definetly a difference in the launch. i can tell on the street when i nail it it wants to grip a little better than it did. do the math, battery in the back is 80lbs of weight transfer (40lbs off of the front and 40lbs onto the rear). i did it for under 30$ too and it looks very clean.
swaybar is also a good one- helps alot.
there are stupid little things you can do that don't do much, like coolant bypass, egr neck cutoff, ported tb etc.. you will gain alot with a tune though, like stated 11.8 is good if you plan on spraying the car, but n/a that is horrible.
on that note- your a/f is already perfect for nitrous, why not spray it![Devil](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_devil.gif)
fwiw any type of good launch is going to require a clutch right away or soon thereafter. kind of like how an a4 needs a 'verter.
good luck.
i recently put my battery in the spare tire area, took some time but definetly a difference in the launch. i can tell on the street when i nail it it wants to grip a little better than it did. do the math, battery in the back is 80lbs of weight transfer (40lbs off of the front and 40lbs onto the rear). i did it for under 30$ too and it looks very clean.
swaybar is also a good one- helps alot.
there are stupid little things you can do that don't do much, like coolant bypass, egr neck cutoff, ported tb etc.. you will gain alot with a tune though, like stated 11.8 is good if you plan on spraying the car, but n/a that is horrible.
on that note- your a/f is already perfect for nitrous, why not spray it
![Devil](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_devil.gif)
fwiw any type of good launch is going to require a clutch right away or soon thereafter. kind of like how an a4 needs a 'verter.
good luck.
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I like the MT drag radials. They dont have to be heated as long. And they do offer them In 17in thats what I have 245/75/17 also what would help is a TA cover or rear end cover. I get pretty good hooks launching at 4500 A buddy of mine launches at 6 grand his is all stock just gears and he pull 8.01 1/8 mile with a 60ft of 1.81 I do a 1.83 but I dont lauch at 6 grand, and dont have gears just power. HEHE 1/8 7.91 with a messed up tranny. 3rd gear is messed up and have to let rpms down to shift.
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If you have 16's get the M/T ET streets for traction. The whole race is the first 60 ft. If your car gets out good like 1.8 60 ft. then you could run be at least 3-4 tenths faster. Faster 60ft. means more momentum and faster times. And as far as drag radial vs. slick, i would go with a slick / et street. The drag radials shock your car and when i shocked my car with drag radials i snapped half shafts. I just bought et streets for my 16 inch ccw's and the car hooks alot better and the side walls flex when i lanuch and dont produce shock to my half shafts.
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Originally Posted by revlimiter
And as far as drag radial vs. slick, i would go with a slick / et street. The drag radials shock your car and when i shocked my car with drag radials i snapped half shafts. I just bought et streets for my 16 inch ccw's and the car hooks alot better and the side walls flex when i lanuch and dont produce shock to my half shafts.
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LOL, i'd pass on the slicks, keep the DR's.
Anyways, i'm w/ you on the launching of my car. I've been practicing soo much, i'll probably need another clutch shortly. My 60' times are like 2.2 sec., which is sad. It seems like everybody and their mother can pull a 2.0 sec. 60' in an M6 here. Just buy a gtech pro competition, and practice launching with it. Those suckers are accurate (Not the old P.O.S ones). Those nittos are gonna take forever to heat up. I have the BFG's and they heat up alot easier.
Anyways, i'm w/ you on the launching of my car. I've been practicing soo much, i'll probably need another clutch shortly. My 60' times are like 2.2 sec., which is sad. It seems like everybody and their mother can pull a 2.0 sec. 60' in an M6 here. Just buy a gtech pro competition, and practice launching with it. Those suckers are accurate (Not the old P.O.S ones). Those nittos are gonna take forever to heat up. I have the BFG's and they heat up alot easier.
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I have heard that the drag radials with the stiff side walls are hard on the independent rear suspension cars as in cobras corvettes gto. The flex of the sidewall on the et street-drag cushions the launch to the point that they add some duribility to these cars.