DOUBT IT

iTrader: (13)

After saying I was going to do it for a while, I finally got off my butt and did it, and it only cost me $55. (I basically got the battery relocation kit for $5.)

I used the Taylor Relocation Kit PN:48000 It's got 2ga wire included. Here's how it's mounted.



I mounted it like this so I can still use my T-top holders, and put a nitrous bottle in the spare tire well. I used big machine screws to hold down the plate. I did have to cut and weld the hold-down, because it was too wide for the battery and didn't hold it well enough for my tastes. It's fixed now though, and fits like a glove.

Here's my insurance should something short out...



And here's how I handled the connections up front. I like this configuration. I'm going to mount a Summit recirculating catch can up there as soon as I get around to getting one ordered. How have you guys done the ground? I was thinking of cutting off the terminal, taking the other wire off the post, joining them, and then re-running the wire to hide it better.





And here's what it looks like inside.



I like how this cleaned a lot of things up. I can already tell a difference in the weight transfer. Tell me what you guys think of my relocation.

ls14u

Looks good.

TransAm_00

iTrader: (1)

You say you can feel the difference in the weight transfer from moving the battery from the front to the rear? You must have some super human ability to feel a couple pounds difference in 3500 pounds.

GuitsBoy

iTrader: (4)

Thats not a very educated post. Can you not tell the difference between a 1/4 tank and a full gas tank? Thats about 10 gallons x 6.5 Lbs, or 65 Lbs. Pretty similar to what a battery weighs.... although that optima should be a bit lighter. Weight relocation should even be more profound, because on top of adding 50 Lbs to the rear for traction, youre also removing to lbs from the front allowing it to raise higher, planting the rear even more firmly.

DOUBT IT

iTrader: (13)

What he said. Plus, you have to take into account that my car's suspension is setup to get maximum weight transfer. No swaybar, LCA's, SFC's, Jegster torque arm, and a crap load of weight out of the front makes the car more sensitive to stuff like that.

If you don't believe me, try it yourself.

SeeYaSucker

Where did you route your cable? along the bottom of the car or inside?

DOUBT IT

iTrader: (13)

Inside, that's why I threw the 200 amp fuse on there. I don't want to take any chances. It was really easy to run, I just pulled the pass. seat, took the door/kick panel off, and ran the wire through the grommet behind the PCM. The part that took me the longest was figuring out where to mount the tray. Everything else was cake.

11SECSS

iTrader: (199)

Do you know if that will pass tech not being in a sealed box ....also do you plan on installing a cut off switch....main reason why I just stick with my dyna battery up front when I go to the track and then put stock back in afterwards.

DOUBT IT

iTrader: (13)

It won't pass tech, but they don't do tech whenever I race, so it's not an issue. If I decide to race in the footbrake class at the local track, I'd have to get the box, cut-off switch, driveshaft loop, helmet, and I'm sure a couple other little things to be legal, but since I'm not racing the car "officially", and I just go to test-n-tune, I'm not worrying about it right now.

I'll probably go with a Moroso box later, get a spare taillight, and run the cut-off switch through the extra taillight, like I've seen some other guys do.

11SECSS

iTrader: (199)

I need to go to that track to race sometime ...my track told me not to come back without a rollbar when I had my convertable running low 13's-high 12's stock

chrs1313

iTrader: (24)

how much extra weight did you add to the car total all wires and bolts etc..

DOUBT IT

iTrader: (13)

Probably no more than 8-10 lbs all told. I guess I need to change my raceweight, huh?

A little bit of weight added to pay major dividends in traction. I actually had to just put my stock coil spring isolators back on the car because the rear after the relocation was about an inch lower than the front.

monsterls1

iTrader: (8)

Looks good, I like how your wires are set up under the hood, very clean!

CAT3

iTrader: (9)

Looks pretty nice, really like the bracket refitting you done.

11SECSS, why not leave the Dynabatt in all the time? FWIW, I have the Odessey and run it daily, with all factory power bullsh*t, no issues whatsoever.

Charlie

SUX2BU

iTrader: (14)

WERD. i just threw in a hawker oddesy bat and lost 25 lbs. you gained 10 lbs so thats a 35 lb difference.

DOUBT IT

iTrader: (13)

Yes, but we can't all be as weight-obsessed as you. Sometimes, when I start to think that I'm hardcore, I just look back to that thread about your "ultra-lightweight" Kirkeys. Just makes me laugh thinking about it.

Gotta give you props dude, if there's weight that can be lost, you'll find it somewhere. I half expect to see you riding on a milkcrate with a pair of vise-grips clamped onto the steering hub. Now THAT'D be hardcore...

FWIW, I am seriously thinking about taking out the radio and speakers, any idea how much weight that'd drop?

Oh, and CAT3 and monsterls1, thanks for the compliments guys.

CAT3

iTrader: (9)

Vice grips weight too much, he's still trying to find a lighter weight alternative

chrs1313

iTrader: (24)

So you are having traction issues at the track, ic now, my car just bites and doesn't spin at all i guess if my tires were spinning i might try this too, excellenct job though, i like it alot, very clean install

hourang

iTrader: (6)

looks good man. so i assume with my setup it might not fit there?


where can i put it? drivers side?

Shon Herron

iTrader: (25)

LOL, with all the weight I have removed, the car has not had traction problems and has picked up quiet a bit!