what should I look for in rear shocks for drag racing?
02-14-2007, 07:32 PM
#2
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Name brand, double adj only, that way as you get faster you are set, and good ones are rebuildable, and can be revalved.
Slow car has Strange electronic control type
fast car has older Koni
.
Name brand, double adj only, that way as you get faster you are set, and good ones are rebuildable, and can be revalved.
Slow car has Strange electronic control type
fast car has older Koni
.
02-14-2007, 09:30 PM
#3
Originally Posted by mrdragster1970
.
Name brand, double adj only, that way as you get faster you are set, and good ones are rebuildable, and can be revalved.
Slow car has Strange electronic control type
fast car has older Koni
.
Name brand, double adj only, that way as you get faster you are set, and good ones are rebuildable, and can be revalved.
Slow car has Strange electronic control type
fast car has older Koni
.
Either Strange, Koni or AFCO double adjustables are the only way to go. If you want a shock to grow into then there are your choices.
02-14-2007, 10:24 PM
#4
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MADMAN, what shocks do you reccomend for a car similar to that of Coach's? I expect high 9s on motor once the new setup is built and low/mid 9s on 200hit. Btw, I got the shock brackets and t-shirt today! Thanks for the nut too...
02-15-2007, 11:07 AM
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i have the Qa1's all around on the 00 best of 1.38 but we also have a leaf spring first gen with caltracs and qa1's that cant buy a sub 1.55 60'. what do you consider more important a front or a rear shock or is it you gotta have both to work together? like i said the qa1's in the first gen dont do the job they ar single adj. and do not respond acurately to adjusments. ie. turn **** and it doesnt do **** on one side but the other side is very sensitive. should we look for doubl adj front and back?
02-15-2007, 12:30 PM
#7
Caltrac cars reallt like a double adjustable shock on the rear. The front a single will work.
Originally Posted by lm7
i have the Qa1's all around on the 00 best of 1.38 but we also have a leaf spring first gen with caltracs and qa1's that cant buy a sub 1.55 60'. what do you consider more important a front or a rear shock or is it you gotta have both to work together? like i said the qa1's in the first gen dont do the job they ar single adj. and do not respond acurately to adjusments. ie. turn **** and it doesnt do **** on one side but the other side is very sensitive. should we look for doubl adj front and back?
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02-15-2007, 12:55 PM
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were going to try the afco's out, with landrum leafs and caltracs. car is being mini tubbed with DSE wheel tubs and a bigger tire will be going in 29.5x10.5 hoosier. hopefully it will leave good best ET has been 9.97 with 1.63 60 
02-15-2007, 03:28 PM
#10
Originally Posted by lm7
were going to try the afco's out, with landrum leafs and caltracs. car is being mini tubbed with DSE wheel tubs and a bigger tire will be going in 29.5x10.5 hoosier. hopefully it will leave good best ET has been 9.97 with 1.63 60
The landrum springs are killer pieces. With the right shock and spring on those tires you should be in the low 1.40s
02-15-2007, 03:55 PM
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thats what were looking for...and maybe some more bottle 
to stay on topic what traits make a quality shock? ive always thought the single adj QA1 and varishock types just areant that fine tunable.
to stay on topic what traits make a quality shock? ive always thought the single adj QA1 and varishock types just areant that fine tunable.
02-15-2007, 04:56 PM
#12
The main problem I have with QA1 is they are made in China now. When Hal Lees was building them they were all amaerican. Also the QA1 has the smallest shaft out there, so the seal area is smaller causing leaks quicker. Also the smaller shaft doesnt allow a big enough piston and valve to control the oil.
02-17-2007, 07:46 PM
#16
no way they are the cheapest alternative. i say go with the strange setup i love mine personally. my best 60ft isnt that impressive being only a 1.66 but my suspension is stock otherwise ith 27in hoosier qtps and bmr front swaybar(whick should hurt the 60ft) then adjust them to a stiff setting befroe you leave te track and the car will also handle well. btw car is a cam only 6-speed
02-17-2007, 11:11 PM
#17
so far I have a best 60ft of 1.47 with stock shocks, springs, ta and the only mod to the rear susp is boxed not adjustable lca.
I was doing 1.6x with a 3500 stall then went to a 4400 stall and got it down but started to spin sometimes but not too bad. but I had to add weight temp untill I got my suspension done. I had like 150lbs extra in it so I am hoping for it to hook without the weight and if so it should get it down to low 1.4 or high 1.3s
I am also adding a 10pt cm cage it will gane about 100lbs but I will be losing way more than that with pulling the 150lbs out and adding kirkeys over stock and a few other weight redutions. I am still running the oem 10 spoke ss wheels on it and that will probley be the next mod getting a set of drag wheels for it. I am minitubing and probley going with a bigger tire and lower gear as well
I was doing 1.6x with a 3500 stall then went to a 4400 stall and got it down but started to spin sometimes but not too bad. but I had to add weight temp untill I got my suspension done. I had like 150lbs extra in it so I am hoping for it to hook without the weight and if so it should get it down to low 1.4 or high 1.3s
I am also adding a 10pt cm cage it will gane about 100lbs but I will be losing way more than that with pulling the 150lbs out and adding kirkeys over stock and a few other weight redutions. I am still running the oem 10 spoke ss wheels on it and that will probley be the next mod getting a set of drag wheels for it. I am minitubing and probley going with a bigger tire and lower gear as well
Last edited by brandonppr; 02-18-2007 at 12:49 AM.
