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SFI 25.2 Mustang/LSx build "The Renegade"

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Old 06-16-2010, 05:53 AM
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Originally Posted by 69vette
What are you'll using to log egts? BS3 upgrade?Racepak? Something more reasonable in price?
Racepak V300
Old 06-17-2010, 11:07 AM
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Getting there...done for the day
Downpipe is done 100% welded and rear end is assembled just needs to go back in.













Last edited by Phil99vette; 06-17-2010 at 11:30 AM.
Old 06-17-2010, 09:18 PM
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looks great phil.......as usual.


when is the expected date to get some test hits?
Old 06-17-2010, 09:19 PM
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looks great phil.......as usual.


when is the expected date to get some test hits?
Old 06-17-2010, 11:25 PM
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Damn as soon as I can get everything buttoned up. I am soo pumped up to try out all the new little things.
Old 06-18-2010, 09:12 AM
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What ga Aluminum did you use for the downpipes?
Old 06-18-2010, 11:20 AM
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14 ga
Old 06-19-2010, 02:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Phil99vette
14 ga
honestly im surprised aluminum is being used. wouldnt the temps be close to aluminums limit?
Old 06-19-2010, 03:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Wnts2Go10O
honestly im surprised aluminum is being used. wouldnt the temps be close to aluminums limit?
A) It's post turbo and B)Aluminum oxidizes. Melting point of oxidized aluminum is something in the range of 2050C if I recall correctly.
Old 06-19-2010, 03:23 PM
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Originally Posted by 69vette
A) It's post turbo and B)Aluminum oxidizes. Melting point of oxidized aluminum is something in the range of 2050C if I recall correctly.
that would be great if we were running pure aluminum oxide pipes,but since the oxide layer is micro thin-it's going to melt like normal alumnium at 1250F.usually on gas motors we try to run 11ga right out of the turbo and switch to 14ga downstream.I have seen some guys melt right through their downpipes if made incorrectly.
Old 06-19-2010, 04:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Shawn @ VA Speed
that would be great if we were running pure aluminum oxide pipes,but since the oxide layer is micro thin-it's going to melt like normal alumnium at 1250F.usually on gas motors we try to run 11ga right out of the turbo and switch to 14ga downstream.I have seen some guys melt right through their downpipes if made incorrectly.
From the testing we did with a little formula car, we were logging exhaust temps of 1500F in an aluminum tube and not melting the aluminum tubing. Obviously not all the heat is being transfered to the pipe, but I would assume the pipe itself was above 1250F.

Only drag cars i've seen have a problem is when people put a 90 right against the turbo and run 14g. We run 14g on our car and three customer's cars with no issues, just depends on how you can route it. All the street car we build have 11g for the downpipe as you mention just to ensure it doesn't fatigue and cause any problems.
Old 06-19-2010, 05:38 PM
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thanks for the answers guys. interesting stuff
Old 06-20-2010, 12:35 AM
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One other question. What is the waste gate on the cold side right after the turbo used for?
Old 06-20-2010, 08:38 AM
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Phil said, more precise control of the boost down to the tenth of a #. With a motor that makes a **** ton of torque, the boost is very sensitive.
Old 06-20-2010, 10:00 AM
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You'd be surprised at how small a difference it takes to go from a 1.33 to a 1.23.
Old 06-20-2010, 11:10 AM
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Originally Posted by Phil99vette
You'd be surprised at how small a difference it takes to go from a 1.33 to a 1.23.
Very good idea. Do you control that with the boost controller as well? Unfortunatly for me, I only make ~1000hp at the crank so I don't need that precise of control, but the next build will be a bit more stout and I want to have as much info as possible before I dive in.
Old 06-20-2010, 02:10 PM
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Originally Posted by lt1camaroman93
Very good idea. Do you control that with the boost controller as well? Unfortunatly for me, I only make ~1000hp at the crank so I don't need that precise of control, but the next build will be a bit more stout and I want to have as much info as possible before I dive in.
I can tell you from a 1.29 to 1.27 and a 1.27 to 1.25 is only a tenth of a # of boost. The AMS will regulate the boost down to the tenth. Every form of racing I've done over the last 17 years I've always put 150% into maximizing a limited combo.

Now is no different, the big difference between what we are doing and what everyone else is doing is we're looking at every individual piece, than each system to see if it can be tweaked to gain additional consistency and extract any performance advantage. I'm not looking to go to the race track and be a 1st or 2nd round duck, I want to have a car I can put a tune up in and go down the race track and not have to cut a .000 light to beat a faster car, we'll pull the power and save parts if needed.

I think everyone will see what its all about when we finally start making hits again, the chassis is right, the power train is phuckin killer, the power management is perfect. I want a car that is capable of sub 1.15 60's on the right track, 172-174mph in the 1/8 mile and the rest we can take care of by using only as much as we need. And thats no typo, 172 to 174 with a single 106 and small block. Imagine if we actually had some money to spend....
Old 06-20-2010, 06:59 PM
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Rear end is back in,
driveshaft loop is bent and ready to be welded into place
front passenger fender is cut for the exhaust
Slowly chopping down the list.


Old 06-20-2010, 08:56 PM
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so.............are you painting before it goes out? or are you going to take it out to the track ugly?
Old 06-21-2010, 09:10 AM
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Originally Posted by brandoz28
so.............are you painting before it goes out? or are you going to take it out to the track ugly?
never saw a race won because the car looked good.


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