What is the difference between the Wolfe single and double Anti-Roll Bar?
What is the difference between the Wolfe single and double Anti-Roll Bar? From what I have read and looking at the pics from the wolfe site. I still don't understand how they work and what the difference between the single and double adjustable one is.
I am looking for the best traction possible.
I am looking for the best traction possible.
I'm pretty sure the single is welded to the axle housing once on each side and the double has two points on each side where it is welded to the axle housing... and that's about it. You're not talking about the frame mounted sway bar right? Because that goes in the location of your stock fuel tank. Depending on what you're trying to accomplish, the double sway bar is going to allow less "flex" in the back, definately.
ok, so did my explanation help at all? There's two brackets on each side of the bar that mounts to the axle housing as opposed to one- it definately reinforces any flexing over the single. I know guys running high 9's with the single no problem, so I guess it depends on if you have a cage, race weight, and any other chasis modifications.
Is it adjustable or do you just mount it and its set?
If its adjustable, how do you adjust it and what differnces does adjusting make?
My car is not that fast. It should run high tens when I get it set up and tuned. Also the fastest I will probley get it is mid tens. It gets pretty good 60fts though. 1.47 best so far.
I am bracket racing though so if the double makes it hook even a little better than the single then thats what I want.
If its adjustable, how do you adjust it and what differnces does adjusting make?
My car is not that fast. It should run high tens when I get it set up and tuned. Also the fastest I will probley get it is mid tens. It gets pretty good 60fts though. 1.47 best so far.
I am bracket racing though so if the double makes it hook even a little better than the single then thats what I want.
There is specifs sent with the product as to how you should set it, but you would probably want to talk around with others and see what minor adjustments and angles they have their's set at. If you want consistant, non-flexation (if that's a word) than I would go for the double. You will definately feel the difference on the street an the track once installed, it's actually pretty cool.
The single bar we recommend to about 8.40's in the 1/4. Faster than that we recommend the double sway bar. Basically, with the double we work one against the other to really lock the car down and force it to do what we want it to do.
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From: Ventura County, California
I am making my own, but no one that I know makes them so maybe you guys could consider it.
It didn't get any instructions for how to adjust the bar.
On the Wolfe site there are installation instructions, but I don't see any adjustment instructions.
How do you adjust the bar once it is installed? What effect does it have on the car when adjustments are made?
On the Wolfe site there are installation instructions, but I don't see any adjustment instructions.
How do you adjust the bar once it is installed? What effect does it have on the car when adjustments are made?
There's a few ways of adjusting the bar, but here is how I did it with mine:
Get the bar mounted up on the car first. once it's all set, hook up the drivers side link, and tighten it down so that the bar is level at ride height, or close to it. Now with you in the car, have the right side set so that the bolt holding the rod end to the bar can easily be slid in and out, this means there is no preload on the bar.
Start with it like that, the car should leave strait and level. If you find the car is rolling over on teh right rear, then make the rod on the passengers side a touch longer, if the car is lifting the passengers's side tire more, then the rod has to be shortened a touch.
Once you have the car leaving level and strait, I would then put the car on scales so that way you know where the weight's are that way if the car starts to run funny you can go back and check the weight's, see if anything has changed.
Get the bar mounted up on the car first. once it's all set, hook up the drivers side link, and tighten it down so that the bar is level at ride height, or close to it. Now with you in the car, have the right side set so that the bolt holding the rod end to the bar can easily be slid in and out, this means there is no preload on the bar.
Start with it like that, the car should leave strait and level. If you find the car is rolling over on teh right rear, then make the rod on the passengers side a touch longer, if the car is lifting the passengers's side tire more, then the rod has to be shortened a touch.
Once you have the car leaving level and strait, I would then put the car on scales so that way you know where the weight's are that way if the car starts to run funny you can go back and check the weight's, see if anything has changed.
Much like a driveshaft, a hollow tube is stronger than a solid shaft.
We put one on my car and it goes super straight. We had a single billingsley bar on the car before and it was still laying over. I highly recommend the Wolfe Double for high horsepower applications.
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1966 Chevy II twin turbo LS3 project
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1966 Chevy II twin turbo LS3 project
2016 Z07 Carbon
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Joined: Oct 2007
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From: Ventura County, California
I am just going to make my own they are simple and straight forward and it is always easy to use a bigger bar, rod and rod ends to strengthen it up.
Just me but I can't see spending 400-500 or more on something I can make myself for 150.00 or less.
For mine I will be using a 1 1/2" torsion tube, with sealed bearings and using 1" .186 wall tubing tapped for 3/4" -5/8" hole rod ends and 1/4" plate for the arms with holes drilled and tied in together with welded tubing to brace the two arms together. I doubt that will ever break or I will over power it.
Just me but I can't see spending 400-500 or more on something I can make myself for 150.00 or less.
For mine I will be using a 1 1/2" torsion tube, with sealed bearings and using 1" .186 wall tubing tapped for 3/4" -5/8" hole rod ends and 1/4" plate for the arms with holes drilled and tied in together with welded tubing to brace the two arms together. I doubt that will ever break or I will over power it.
Last edited by chrismorales75; Oct 19, 2007 at 08:31 PM.
