JasonWW

iTrader: (2)

It's going to be replaced by a subwoofer enclosure. The box will take up the area of the gas tank. I also want the storage area in the far back clear for my junk. So I was thinking of running twin fuel cells where the back seats were similar to the vette. Or I may be able to run a 20x24x9 fuel cell in the far back. It would reduce some of the storage areas depth, but not too much. I haven't decided yet.

I'm just trying to figure out what parts are structural and what aren't.

I don't want to hijack this thread, but here is a link to a picture I made using the stock tank relocated.
http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v3...rackidea43.jpg

Here is a fuel cell in the far back and down low. Ignore the stuff up top.
http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v3...rackidea34.jpg

Here is another possible fuel cell location.
http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v3...rackidea35.jpg

Then I could do the twin fuel cells in the back seat area. I haven't done a diagram for that, but you get the idea. The subs have to be rearward, but the fuel cell can go several different locations, but I'd prefer low and to the rear for better weight distribution.

JasonWW

iTrader: (2)

This is my latest diagram.
http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v3...rackidea49.jpg

RAGENZ28

iTrader: (5)

Jason what size speakers are you going to run?

I have two 12's in the trunk that sit over the t-top hump in a box.

Personally I would leave the stock gas tank, put the battery in the spare tire area and make a box that fits over the t-top hump.

You wouldn't have to cut anything and the cost would be low, I even saw a battery holder made to mount in the spare tire area that was only $34.00 I think, on some mail order place.

JasonWW

iTrader: (2)

3 12's. I've already seen every imaginable enclosure and I don't like any of them. It's time for something new.

As a side note, moving the gas tank will let the rear axle go higher. I need that room for when I lower the car. That, some mini tubs and raising the trans tunnel in the rear and I'll be set to drop the car to the ground.

More info is here:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showpost....&postcount=212

RAGENZ28

iTrader: (5)

If you're going to use part of the back seat why not just make the back seat the speaker box area.

JasonWW

iTrader: (2)

It's technical, but basically you lose output. The location of the subs is critical.

RAGENZ28

iTrader: (5)

I think if you have 3 12's with a big amp it won't matter where you put it, it will be loud.

We ran 3 15's in my cousins car and it would give you a head ache pretty quick, steering wheel would vibrate back and forth about 3"s

JasonWW

iTrader: (2)

(It will be 3 12's with 2200 watts)
I have all this room in the back seat area, but the subs have to be in the rear of the car so it creates a bit of a challenge. I don't want anything that has already been done before. I want it unique. Something that will make folks scratch their head and wonder how I did that.

With that last idea I would cut out the area above the gas tank, the upper part of the seatback area and the draftshaft tunnel. Then to tub the car I'll be cutting out the wheel wells. It kind of makes me wonder what will be left? Just the "frame rails"?

JasonWW

iTrader: (2)

Now I'm kinda thinking. Since I need to raise the wheel wells and the trans tunnel, what if I cut out just a giant single piece, raise it 2"-3" and then weld it back in?

Or, I could weld some 2x3 box steel tubing over the green area where the "frame rails" are located. Then cut out the tank and trans tunnel piece right along the new tubing. Raise that whole middle section up and then weld it to the top edge of the square tubing. Then just add some filler pieces to the gaps in the front and back?

This way I would be adding strength and stiffness with the new rear frame rails and reduce some of the welding and new sheet metal needed.

JasonWW

iTrader: (2)

Maybe something like this:



Although I would not need to keep the yellow section on top, just the trans tunnel part. A fiberglass box could be molded to the top of the axle shape and have a flat top. That way the car can be lowered more. The work is similar to race car stuff, but just for different reasons. I'm definetly going to come back and reread all the stuff about grinding the stock metal to bare and all the hints to welding on it. This is all great info.

RAGENZ28

iTrader: (5)

Just get an angle grinder and a "heavy" wire brush, it'll remove the paint without scratching up the metal. But you want to weld after you do it, metal wire brushed is bare and will rust quicker.

RAGENZ28

iTrader: (5)

Took photos of tubs in car and a couple under the tub area and with the back seat back in, will post later tonight or tomorrow.

RAGENZ28

iTrader: (5)

Finished the rear trunk and cut the panhard rod and drilled the new hole for that.

Pretty much done, now time to get the rims/tires/rear end.

Will post pics later tonight or tomorrow.

JasonWW

iTrader: (2)

Would any of you guys attemp to weld these up using a stick welder with a 6013 rod?

car_fixer

sounds like a recipe for swiss cheese........

JasonWW

iTrader: (2)

I've got a gas welder and an arc welder here at my house, but my brother has a Mig. I'm a newbie at electric welding so I asked if I could borrow his Mig and he says the stick welder would work fine. Think maybe he said that just becuase he doesn't want to loan out his Mig?

car_fixer

gee, what a guy lol, I guess you could try it on some of the stuff you took out?

RAGENZ28

iTrader: (5)

Mig is the easiest by far to weld with, for what you're doing use a mig for sure.

RAGENZ28

iTrader: (5)

What a nice brother huh, "ah just stick weld it all"

You still doing the winter thing or you get to work on the car any?

I pretty much finished all the tub stuff just have to do one last thing, then clean out the car and vacuum it and wash all the damn grinding dust off.

Then I'll paint all the little spots and put some body sealer over the new floor seams.

JasonWW

iTrader: (2)

Here's a newbie question for you.
Do you have to totally weld all the seams or can you just weld several small spots like the factory does and then seal the seams with a filler of some sort?