Rogue86

iTrader: (14)

Ohh no, I'm talking about that bracket that goes kinda wraps around from the B pillar to the front of the stock wheel tub.

What used to be in this circled part:

JasonWW

iTrader: (2)

Since I don't think you have any bracing currently holding the car in place, is there a chance the body may be tweaked or twisted a little once you do add the rollcage?

BTW, is it going to be a full rollcage or just a rollbar in the rear?

JasonWW

iTrader: (2)

I just spotted something. In this pic, what is the black thing near the fuel filler tube? Upper right corner.

My 99 TA doesn't have that. I believe the 98's used a metal gas tank, so maybe that is the black box that now sits on top of the plastic tanks?

chrismorales75

Oh ok I thought that seemed light for what I cut out, yes that bracket behind the seat isn't too much around 3 pounds sounds right.

You going to cut out the other brackets?

chrismorales75

It will be a partial 25.2 cage, I am going to leave out the bars that would get in the way of using the back seat and trunk, which will be good to 8.50's, once I get around that fast if it ever goes that fast I will just have to add a few pieces of tubing behind the seat and in the trunk area, so nothing will have to be cut out, just added on to.

No the body won't tweak or twist until you get more into cutting, cutting out the tubs won't do a thing, you brace the car when you start cutting out the floor in between the body, like a full tube frame set up, but as long as you have the floor in the car the body won't move around.

Let me draw a quick pic so you can see what I mean.

chrismorales75

That plastic box is some kind of California smog BS gas fume recirculation.

chrismorales75

Cage drawing, red lines are the bars I am putting in now, the white lines are ones I will add once it is a dedicated drag car.

car_fixer

that shure is going to look weird outside the car, but if that what you want to do...lol , oughta work
except personally i would move the x in th door so that the front upper bar is where the front supports attach to triangulate that better, and it looks like you are going to use a hoop in the back from the main hoop to the standoffs(i didnt know what else to call them) you may need to bend that to clear the tubs, and also either way i would gusset it to the main hoop, also x in the back?

chrismorales75

That was just a 5 second drawing, it wasn't meant to be 100% correct and I'll remember to put the bars inside the car

The hoop doesn't have to be bent to clear the tubs, they only go up to the top of the hatch ledge.



The main thing is keeping the back seat so my kids can ride with me =)

It will look kind of like this, then later on I will add the rest of the bars when I remove the floor down the road.

Beaflag VonRathburg

iTrader: (176)

https://ls1tech.com/forums/attachmen...2&d=1195689824

That's quite a bit of material there. Thanks for the pictures with the updates.

chrismorales75

No problem, I will try to weigh what I have cut out tomorrow or the next day, then I will weigh the tubs and the metal.

I already have the plates for the frame cut out and all the pieces I am putting back in so I will weigh everything hopefully and have the weight saving numbers in by this weekend.

dlove

iTrader: (23)

i can see it now. You print off that picture you drew up, "well according to the picture we need a red bar right about here"

chrismorales75

LOL Hey it will be cool, I'll have a cage in the car and 315 60 15's on a 15x12 and still have a back seat that is usable, I think that's keeping it streetable

Plus down the road I don't have to touch or redo a single thing, pull out the rear seat, weld a few more bars in the car and I have a car good to 7.50's.

The way I will be doing it will be good to 8.50's so I doubt I'd run that fast ever anyways, wouldn't want to, I just want to add gas, check the tire pressure and make some passes, then go home and drive it to the store, to eat and around town and park it.

When I do my turbo motor one day it will be a LSX block, 6 bolt cylinder heads and a nice big turbo that makes max power around 6000 rpm on pump gas, when I want to go race I'll add some race gas and boost and knock some passes off. When I do that I will most likely run a th400 and a small stall something around 3000.

I'd be happy to have a car that will run 9's and drive on the street anytime I want.

car_fixer

i coudnt envision the tub location lol, still need to gusset the rear hoop, and it will be a flexi flyer without an x in the back. I like 9 sec. street cars

chrismorales75

2 straight bars and an "X" is like 1970 pro stock stuff LOL, I am going with a hoop and the two rear struts.

You're just trying to sabotage my dope street car project and make me turn to the dark side "FWD"

As of now the plan is as follows, but I doubt I will add any more bars.

You keep forgetting the car only makes like 400 hp right now

car_fixer

i never said 2 straight bars, and uh why do they still have x's there then....infact alot of cars have 2 x's , there just might be something to that. but at just 400 hp it wont be a problem, heck might even help , less weight lol

chrismorales75

Are you talking about putting the X where the white lines are?

If so That wouldn't be something I put in until it is a dedicated race car, I don't think that would leave much head room in the back seat right now

car_fixer

yup right there, and yeah if you gusset the sides of the rear loop you could wait on the x there, I would just hate to see it twisting after all that work, it doesnt really matter when you put those bars (x) they are a pain to weld, especially when upside down standing on your head, and the bar that goes across the front of the seat wont make it hard to use?

chrismorales75

The hoop will sit behind the rear seat, the bar running across from the main hoop on the bottom of the floor and the one right above it the funny car cage would sit on will leave just enough room to squeeze a set of feet in there.

Nothing new for my kids, I was picking them up from elementary school and they were climbing over x door bars getting in 5 points LOL.

chrismorales75

Weighed everything today total weight cut out was 74.5 pounds and the weight of metal and tubs going back in was 21.5 pounds.

Total weight saved 53 pounds

Drilled the hole through the frame to remount the LCA, what a fricking hassle to get it straight, got that done looks like it will take a 6" bolt, also went to 1/2 bolts and enlarged bushing holes to 1/2. You'll have to remove the fuel filter on the frame and move the fuel line over some to drill the drivers side.

Will post new pics next week.