fyi for all who run jeg/ summit stars...
12-31-2007, 12:22 PM
#1
fyi for all who run jeg/ summit stars... im not bashing any product but a quick fyi. perhaps i had another issue i was unaware of but ill share my experience with u guys. i got a 2nd pair of summit stars for the rear of my car. that way i could run 26's na and 28's n20 without swapping tires everytime. summit stars looked the same and were a lot cheaper. i got them and at first was very happy. they were a 1 peice design and fit much better as far as brake grinding. the did however use a conical seat lug nut as oppossed to a shank. which i really liked the idea of as i HATE shank lug nuts with a passion. well i made 1 pass with them yesterday. they were torqued exactly to summits recomendation and checked twice after to verfiy after i drove around the pits to make sure they were seated. i made the pass with a good a good amount of tire spin. on the insuing inspection after my pass i noticed that i had bent every single one of my 1/2 moser studs. they were all twisted enough that i couldnt even get a socket on the lug nuts. just an fyi ive made tons of passes with the shank style pro stars and never a single issue. so if u have a car thats remotely fast id stay away from these wheels.
12-31-2007, 10:49 PM
#7
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damn, that'd take an insane amount of torque to twist 1/2" studs
what did you torque them down to?
So does this mean I shouldn't buy these for a possible 11.0-10.50 season?
what did you torque them down to?
So does this mean I shouldn't buy these for a possible 11.0-10.50 season?
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12-31-2007, 10:57 PM
#8
a shank nut basically increases the stud size to 5/8 and pretty much goes to the base of the stud.. With conical seat wheel's/lugs there is a big gap between the axle/rotor and the bottom of the lug nut which leave a big area that is easier to bend
01-01-2008, 01:13 AM
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01-01-2008, 10:54 PM
#16
Hmm that's really odd. Were you using closed or open ended lugs? If they were closed, maybe the lugs were bottomed out (longer studs than stock) resulting in gap between the bottom of the lug and the wheel itself? The hole in the wheels for the studs to pass through is 5/8" exactly. On the card that came with the wheels (this out of the box that my 15x4 fronts came in sitting here next to me), it lists 7/16", 12mm, 1/2", 14mm, and 9/16" (don't really know how this ones possible, so this sheet is probably generic). It also shows the 60* conical seat lug required, as well as some dont's on install. Main one being space between the lug and the wheel or bottoming out on the inside top of the lug.
1BADAIR, I see what you mean about the shank style lug fitting around the majority of the stud reinforcing it similar to a 5/8" stud. BUT between the 60* seat on the lugs meeting to the 60* machined hole on the wheels as well as the hubcentric centers of these wheels, I really don't see how a correctly torqued wheel on all studs with a correctly spec'd lug with zero play between the 60* seat and the wheel face could cause a stud to bend this much, especially a 1/2" stud. If this design is flawed this much, I would think GM would have ended production of this wheel/stud type in the higher hp cars (zo6, etc).
This is scary though...I was planning on running them on my car next season with alot more power to the ground (600rwhp through a th400). I had these wheels last season on the rear of my car and used them for 3 track outings (about 20 passes all together), and swapped them onto the car and back off again, never noticed anything weird. With my h/c 425rwhp combo at the time, I had zero issues with them as far as bending studs, etc and I've got an LT1 rearend swapped in the car currently with stock 12mm studs. As far as torquing etc, I put them at 90 ft lbs like I do the stock wheels I run on the car.
Sorry to hear about your bad luck and I don't mean to accuse about faulty install, it just really makes me 2nd guess my plans of running these next season...scary sh*t.
1BADAIR, I see what you mean about the shank style lug fitting around the majority of the stud reinforcing it similar to a 5/8" stud. BUT between the 60* seat on the lugs meeting to the 60* machined hole on the wheels as well as the hubcentric centers of these wheels, I really don't see how a correctly torqued wheel on all studs with a correctly spec'd lug with zero play between the 60* seat and the wheel face could cause a stud to bend this much, especially a 1/2" stud. If this design is flawed this much, I would think GM would have ended production of this wheel/stud type in the higher hp cars (zo6, etc).
This is scary though...I was planning on running them on my car next season with alot more power to the ground (600rwhp through a th400). I had these wheels last season on the rear of my car and used them for 3 track outings (about 20 passes all together), and swapped them onto the car and back off again, never noticed anything weird. With my h/c 425rwhp combo at the time, I had zero issues with them as far as bending studs, etc and I've got an LT1 rearend swapped in the car currently with stock 12mm studs. As far as torquing etc, I put them at 90 ft lbs like I do the stock wheels I run on the car.
Sorry to hear about your bad luck and I don't mean to accuse about faulty install, it just really makes me 2nd guess my plans of running these next season...scary sh*t.
Last edited by Photochop; 01-01-2008 at 11:14 PM.