I appreciate you and Bill's advice, I'm still planning to act on some of it I just don't talk about mods much in February. As for your other comment, you are the 3100 lb 11.4 car and I am the 10.9 3300 lb car. I plan to be the 10.5 3100-3200 lb car so when you are ready to line up and get your wig split let me know.

 

[QUOTE=Z-RATED94;8629446]I run the 275/50/15s with a Yank SS3600 and 3.73 gears. On the 125 shot, I'm crossing the line at about 5600rpm. QUOTE]

at 3th gear
or 4th ?

 

Matt, you can go 125-127mph no problem on 26's, you are not debating that right? Would 28's hook better absolutely but 26's are good for mid 12_'s mph assuming you don't run too much gear. Joe went 127mph with 26" ET Streets, 3.50's, full weight car, two kits, in 3rd gear withi his 3200 vig.

 

Let's race at the first SCC in April at 41. Heads up motor to motor, with YOU driving the car, not Haider. I am still stock internals on the same baby tire.

 

I am not debating that John. I went 126 on a 26" drag radial, but I also had aftermarket suspension work on my '00 Z28 and I only had a 3.42 gear. This guy is cam only with a 100 shot, with a 3.73, and STOCK suspension. What I would like him to do is not crutch the car with a bigger tire (275/60), but he would need aftermarket suspension components to do that. He will either spin when he trys to spray the car out of the hole or shift into 4th.

 

Wow! Can't we all get along here?

Can we agree the guy was traping almost 108 mph with the old 3:42? If he changed from a 3:42 to a 3:73 what would everyone tell him his performance would be improved by? .200 et how many mph? Now he adds a 100 shot of Nitrous. Doesn't mention that he only expects to run it the back half. Or will be firring the big run in the first 50'. But lets assume he hits it in first gear, doesn't blow his tires off, doesn't miss anything and hangs on for the full 1/4. Is 4 mph per 25 shot safe? A 16 mph improvement over the 108. 122 to 125 mph. If it was me I would stay with the 3:42, RUNNING NITROUS I think both tires are safe. Save the money change the gear change after 40 or 50 runs. After we confirm our trap RPM's are..

Isn't the KEY to improving any cars performance taking little suttle steps? Oh **** lets change this, that, and add a couple more things to the mix and see how she runs. In my opinion is great for the speed shops bottom line but not the right way to do it.

An old man and his dog - Jake

 

We might be saying the same thing here. I'd for sure do front drag shocks, !front swaybar, and LCA's out back before I'd go to a 28". I reccomend the LCA's because some folks do get wheel hop do the bushings drying out and getting old.

 

John and I get along great. We play chess in Lincoln Park every Wednesday morning before we go shopping to cash in on our senior citizen discount.

You won't see a .200 et improvement by a 3.42 to 3.73. You will see an improvement in E.T., just not that much.

What car do you have to race? How long has it been since you set up and raced your own car?

 

 

Matt seems edgy today, I'll stop drawing the curtains shut while I shower because it's obviously bringing out your dark side hunny.

 

Curtains or not, it don't matter. I still have the pics from the PSJ & Nine Ball Brokeback photo shoot.

 

lol funny thread!

 

Jake nor I have never been on a drag strip. The last time I spent the night away from home I did stay at a Holiday Inn Express though.

It's not what I race today or what I raced in the past that really matters. My wife doesn't need to be remided, but I'll bet, I spend over 150K racing. One race car left. A 1960 Plastic Chevrolet with thousands of cracks in the body less an engine in a barn in Tennessee. Today, I just have an opinion on everything.

Never met either you or John but I've read both of many of your posts. I think you both have your acts together. If the younger generations would only read then do some thinking on their own, or visa versa, I think they would be happier with their performance gains for thier money spent.

An old man and his dog! - Jake

p.s. warning - If I ever return to Chicago Land I'll buy you a beer.

 

I like Scotish Ale

 

hi matt
can you tell us more about your Suspension ?

and i have now 700$ for Suspension >>? what do u think ?
all this from speedinc site
1- UMI2016 1982 - 2002 GM F-Body Tubular Adjustable Lower Control Arms $179.99

2-UMI2010 1982 - 2002 GM F-Body Lower Control Arm Relocation Brackets Weld-In $64.99

3-UMI2001 1993 - 2002 GM F-Body Tubular Subframe Connectors - Weld-In $149.99

what else ??
Qa1 R front w/275 or Torque Arms ?

 

Um, how can you call his car slow when its faster than yours by .5 N/A? Its obviously tuned/setup to run on the spray.... When you dip into the 10's .5 is alot.

 

Here is a link to everything about my car: http://www.fquick.com/garages/Chevro...Z28/1999/2213/

I would do the QA1 "R"s before you do the torque arm. You will see more of a gain. And LCAs, the relocation brackets, and SFCs are a must. You are on the right path.

 

PSJ's car has a forged 347 with the best LS1 heads (Trick flow) and a monster cam (Vengence) and is 3090 lbs.

My car has a 100% BONE STOCK motor in it. All I have is boltons, suspension, and weight reduction. My valve covers have never even been off the car. My 11.40 passes were with only one o2 sensor working and the other so rich it was bogging the car down. We tuned it and picked up 30hp/28tq. Now I am at 2800lbs. 10s are in my near future with this car, and I will be doing it with only 340hp on a 8" slick.

And I have been in the 10s and past that before. It is nothing new for me or him.

I will run PSJ's car head up motor to motor eventhough he has at least 100hp over me.

 

hi matt

with 275/60 and my rev at 6600 N/A
will I need to shift to 4th gear ?

 

No, you won't need to.