Got a little carried away with weight reduction
#121
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Torch red is a nice color, did you do any fender well work? Instead of stretching mine and welding it back together I am just going to make a shape that looks good and will let me get the tires out then trace the pattern on and trim the metal and then weld a lip back on.
No new photos?
No new photos?
#122
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No new photos yet.
We trimmed the metal in front of the tire for more clearance. My buddy cut a pie shape out bent the piece forward and re-welded it. So you keep the factory look. I'm not sure if I have to cut much in the back or not. I hate that hacked look.
We trimmed the metal in front of the tire for more clearance. My buddy cut a pie shape out bent the piece forward and re-welded it. So you keep the factory look. I'm not sure if I have to cut much in the back or not. I hate that hacked look.
#123
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he started out with a cutted chopped up 97 car... then after he ran the car for a year he put a fiberglass body on it... some things didnt fit like the factory steel shell (a pillar bars stuck way out in the new body).
so if thats your thoughts i'd do it now...
#124
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you'd be better off to use a molded fiber glass body like my buddy did....
he started out with a cutted chopped up 97 car... then after he ran the car for a year he put a fiberglass body on it... some things didnt fit like the factory steel shell (a pillar bars stuck way out in the new body).
so if thats your thoughts i'd do it now...
he started out with a cutted chopped up 97 car... then after he ran the car for a year he put a fiberglass body on it... some things didnt fit like the factory steel shell (a pillar bars stuck way out in the new body).
so if thats your thoughts i'd do it now...
The added cost is something to consider, if I did get a full body I'd get carbon fiber, glass just isn't durable enough for a car that is raced and driven on the street.
Carbon fiber or glass is a lot more than the body I have now, this one is obviously free to start with.
Main reason I cut off the front end and floor besides running big rear tires was to configure the chassis the way I wanted it. Without the stock floor and front clip I can build it to clear my exhaust and make plenty of room to work on the motor and have a lot of room for the turbos and intercooling pipe. Plus I can take what I have seen and learned from other cars and people and add them into the design of my frame.
I just got a new scale so I am going to weight what I cut out of the car so I can get rid of it, I know one thing, stock suspension works great but when you add up all the extra metal here and there vs. a couple c-moly bars and struts it is a lot.
The main reason I plan to keep this body was my G-ma helped me get it when I was younger back when I was 22 and we always talked about making a race car and she'd old and dying now so whether I crashed it or just did nothing with it I'd always keep it in the family.
#125
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i agree with sentamental values... mine is my 2nd car i ever had and i plan on keeping it for a loooooong time....
i did forget that you wanted to street drive it so the glass body would not be ideal...
i did forget that you wanted to street drive it so the glass body would not be ideal...
#126
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I'd love the extra weight reduction and I may add some parts later but I love the way the stock doors and hatch close without issues, I've opened and closed a few glass doors that feel all flimsy and shut basically like ****. I think I've dont enough weight reduction, I'll add the pile up soon, it is on the side of my house and is as high as the gate, a lot of metal when you cut out and entire floor, suspension and front end off a car.
I wouldn't be surprised if it was close to 500 pounds or more I've taken out.
I wouldn't be surprised if it was close to 500 pounds or more I've taken out.
#128
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With a 33x17 or 34.5x17 and a 4 link tuned should be capable of breaking into the 6's, how long will it take no idea, but my goal is to make a 6 second pass before I sell it, crash it or die trying
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I am either looking to build a 555-565 CID BBC with either two 80mm's or maybe go with twin 88's, or I may go slightly bigger, like a 572 or 605 with twin 88's. It should be 2100+ hp capable with Q16 and the boost up. I am hoping to get the car in at a race weight of 2,800, but we will see, I cut a lot out but I am adding 100 pounds in turbos and have intercooling pipe to go back in.
With a 33x17 or 34.5x17 and a 4 link tuned should be capable of breaking into the 6's, how long will it take no idea, but my goal is to make a 6 second pass before I sell it, crash it or die trying![Happy](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_stretch.gif)
With a 33x17 or 34.5x17 and a 4 link tuned should be capable of breaking into the 6's, how long will it take no idea, but my goal is to make a 6 second pass before I sell it, crash it or die trying
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good luck man, watching your build is awesome.
I'll be happy w. 8.50-9.00 range.
Chad
#133
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Everyone needs to remember that with weight mods like this (cutting), you have to put something in its place in most cases like sheetmetal or molly tube.
You may have cut out 25 pounds but what did the stuff weight going back in? If it was 8 pounds then really you only lost 17 pounds.
I have a really big project and am having fun with wire cutters and cut off wheels but I have not decided if I am going to post pics, may wait till the car gets to MADMAN's shop.
I will say that so far I have pulled at least 20 pounds just in hardware, need to weigh it, a lot more in metal that will NOT be going back in.
You may have cut out 25 pounds but what did the stuff weight going back in? If it was 8 pounds then really you only lost 17 pounds.
I have a really big project and am having fun with wire cutters and cut off wheels but I have not decided if I am going to post pics, may wait till the car gets to MADMAN's shop.
I will say that so far I have pulled at least 20 pounds just in hardware, need to weigh it, a lot more in metal that will NOT be going back in.