william's SS

iTrader: (3)

OK when I go to the drag strip on fridays the tree goes yellow,yellow,yellow, then green. And on saturday nights its all three yellow at the same time then green. So my question is when exactly does the reaction timer start for each case and what would be considerd cuting a perfect tree. When am I supposed to leave the line. I originally thought that it started on the flash of the last amber light and /when all three go yellow at the same time but im not sure.

Matt D

iTrader: (49)

The first one is a sportsman tree and the second is a pro tree. .000 is perfect on a pro tree.

youngrigo

I have once got a .000

mzoomora

iTrader: (36)

RT starts when the green lights, but to get a decent RT I usually leave on the last yellow on a sportsman tree. It used to be .500 between lights on a sportsman tree and I think .400 on a pro tree and this used to be the "perfect" RTs. Now they just set .500 as .000, so only the way it is displayed changed IIRC. As far as when you should leave that depends on your car, you and how you stage. If you stage deep you should leave later to avoid a red light. If you stage shallow, just when the second set of staged lights comes on, you should leave earlier.

LS1crazy01

iTrader: (14)

Both reaction timers start on green. The trick is to leave on yellow with out red lighting it. Like by leaving on the last yellow on the first tree mentioned. When you do this by the time your car moves its green. I believe each yellow is Half a second long. So its all about timing. And remember if you "dont ever" redlight then your not pushing it far enough!

Wonderbread

iTrader: (51)

Heres a tip, when you see yellow on a pro tree...... go. On a bolt on/head cam car, you should almost never red light.

william's SS

iTrader: (3)

thanks for clearing that up for me guys.

Villain281H

iTrader: (5)

As mentioned above, on a sportsman tree each amber bulb is .5 seconds. Depending on how hard your car leaves you'll likely launch on the last amber light (the 3rd one down). If you wait for the green you'll be late. Since my Formula has stock 3.23 gears and a stock convertor, I leave as soon as I see the third amber and at 900-1000 rpm I'm usually .030 or better.

A pro-tree gives all three ambers at once, and then depending on which pro tree it is (4-tenths or 5-tenths) is how long all three ambers stay lit. As Wonderbread mentioned, with most 11 second and slower cars on a pro-tree, as soon as you see yellow, drop the hammer!

Some systems still use .400 or .500 for a perfect light (and therefore a red light would be say a .397 on a 4-tenths tree or a .495 on a 5-tenths tree). Most systems today (including NHRA) use .000 for a perfect light on any of the three tree settings (pro or sportsman). If you cut a red light, it would read -.005 (meaning you were 5 thousands too early or left 5 thousands before the green came on).

Derek

BigBronco

iTrader: (2)

Good response Derek.

Wicked ls 1

Couldnt have said it better myself, One thing I noiced is with a rod end suspension the car reacts a lot quicker though.

RAGENZ28

iTrader: (5)

If all the lights flash at once go as soon as you see any yellow period.

If it goes yellow, yellow, yellow, green, try leaving as soon as you see the last yellow just light up.

try to stage the car so both lights just turn on, the more you roll up the faster light you'll cut because you'll have less roll out before the tire breaks the beam and starts the timer.

One Bad Z

iTrader: (1)

test your finger reaction time http://www.evlls1.com/tree.html

Hrod382

I'm an electronics guy but I've had some luck in no box as well.

In my '69 (2.0 60 ft's) I managed ok footbraking. I'd just concentrate on that 3rd bulb... Don't anticipate it coming on, you'll see the first two drop but just concentrate on that one bulb then the second it lights you're gone. This was good for some .040 lights staging shallow.

In a buddies Camaro that has 1.49's on the Trans Brake I could let go the second the third bulb came on and I was better than in box. .00X all day long.

In my dad's Camaro pulling 1.35's off the footbrake spinning, I would see the third bulb, say "there" in my head then off I went and I was .00X-.02X.

Some basis for comparison, it's always best to just barely light that second pre-stage bulb... Take off the instant that 3rd bulb comes on and see where that puts you.

Jakes Dad

Hopefully I'll be permitted to ask this question? Mr. Poster - On Friday and Saturday is the even you're racing in called the same? Test and Tune as an example. Aren't most foot brake classes on a Sportsman Tree? It sounds to me as though this guy is entering two different classes, unknown to him.

AGSAOMAHD's

william's SS

iTrader: (3)

Fridays are a testntune where im at. Which I go to see what times im runing to get at timeslip etc. Saturdays are the Midnight Drags where You dont get a timeslip. This is where everyone just comes out to have fun street or strip cars doesnt matter. Their times usually ranging from mid 10 (some are quicker some arent) to like 17 and sometimes 18 seconds. I guess the tree doesnt really matter on saturdays cus you dont get a timeslip and wont know what you ran unless you have someone watch the time board for you.

RAGENZ28

iTrader: (5)

I got a .515 reaction time, I'm going pro!

Anyone have a pro tree practice link?

FMX05

iTrader: (3)

I got a 5.25 on the finger reaction on the first try, and 5.00 the second time. I quit while I was ahead.

1SlowFormula

http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/nhraxtreepro.html
http://www.smokemup.com/games/400_pro_tree.php

there was another one I used to play with as well but can't seem to find it right now

RAGENZ28

iTrader: (5)

.406 john force approves

Caveman

iTrader: (2)

Something I started doing last year at the advise of a Summit points track champion that will work on a Sportsman tree or a Pro tree, once I prestage and then stage I only look at my last yellow(amber light just above the green) when I see it on I go. This way you dont have to change your routine on the tree going fron Sportsman to Pro tree.