well i posted a while back about not hooking up...
https://ls1tech.com/forums/drag-racing-tech/751848-help-traction.html


well i got my suspension all in went to the track and i still have the same problem
midwest 9 inch 3.90 and spool
chromoly tq arm all rod ended except one small bushing right before the crossmember (this is set at -2.5) (originally it was set on the second hole from the bottom(instant center) then moved to the top hole))
wolfe drag bar set neutral then 1/4 turn extention on the pazss side
chromoly adjustable lowers set on lowest hole (barely angled up from front to back)
chromoly phb
stock springs with comp engineering shocks out back set on 50/50
afco coilovers out front set on 9 compression
i started the otehr setting at about 5 on loose then ended up all the way loose slowly adjusting through runs
mt dr on stock wheels set at 26 then 24 then 20 then 18 then 15 no chnge in traction

u cut a 1.65 60' on motor then went 1.61 was my best on spray flashing the converter on 125 shot

tires at 24 shocks at almost allthe way loose about 80%
http://s21.photobucket.com/albums/b2...t=IMGP2057.flv

tires at 20 psi shocks are at 100% loose
http://s21.photobucket.com/albums/b2...t=IMGP2060.flv

tires at 15 and 100% loose
http://s21.photobucket.com/albums/b2...t=IMGP2062.flv

this all started when i did a major overhaul...changed from 3.73 posi and 3200 stall to 3.42 and welded rear....ect ect......think it might have something to do with the spool and radials? i dont understand....i think its either that or i have a slight bent in the lip of one of my wheels(about 2 inch long flat spot) and maybe the wheels unloads in that one spot causing the tire to unload and put too much stress on the other making it spin back and forth...im goana try a new wheel but any other ideas? could the raidials and spool be a problem? maybe the tires arent the same size around?
or is it just too much for these tires (i have a hard time believing since ive been 1.40 60' before and now i cant get outa the 1.6's)

also whats everyones opinion on subframes necessary or no? once i put the wolfe bar on the cars still as could be...but some are saying i might need them...id rather not weight the car down with them...

 

Looks like the rear shocks need to be stiffer. You could definately tell you did not have enough air on the last pass. that Chattering is hell on the ring gear.

 

yeah i know...its a basially new 9 inch hoping i dont hurt it....

i knew the last pass wasnt enough but figured id try it that maybe they were getting too much pressure after the burnout and they were hot...

i looked back over madmans stuff and stopped doing john force burnouts i do a 2-4 sec burnout now...

that stinks if i need a stiffer shock kp went 1.29 on these off a t-brake...i was hoping they would be enough...they are pretty stiff definately way better then the stockers i had


thing that gets me is
tire pressure had NO change in the problem
pinion angle had no change) it was +2 on accident we changed it to -25 same problem
new shocks still there
new swaybar still there
new tq arm still there...
new lowers without the big poly buchings its still there...

i jsut cant believe i cant make it any worse and cant make it any better...the tires dont spin either like i would expect a drag radial to when you have problems.....im just at a loss...i only mentioned teh dent in my wheel because i was under it today and saw it and didnt ever remember it being there...

 

T-brake hits alot different then a Foot man I am guessing KP was running 15s and not 16s also.

What other tires have you tried?

 

subframes will help,gotta stiffen up the frame bro!

 

My guess...cause I'm no expert myself! That front end is coming up too fast and landing hard.. It unloads right when the front tires touch ground. The harder you hook, the harder the front comes down causing the rear to unload. Rebound adjustable up front? I seen this happen when a guy "drilled and drained" his front stock shocks to make them rise faster...They worked good going mid 12's...But once he sprayed it with 150, the car did what yours seems to be doing. Hard launch, spin. Goodluck!

 

where is this?

 

i thought the t-brake would hit way harder then my footbrake...its a small yank "3600" stall and 125 shot cant believe i cant hook this thing! and yes hes on 15's
ive got some 15x8 draglites and wanna get some 275/50's for them but everyones telling me i need 28's, my cars just not geared for them...and ill have to get a retune...id really like to get this thing to hook on these...i dont think its too much small shot small stall, it only makes 480

no it spins while in mid air....i can watch the vid in slow motion and can see it and the tires are still up....


dkbmxer
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...hlight=burnout
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...hlight=burnout
he also says he runs no less than 19 psi ever...normally between 24-26 this is why i started so high

 

looking at the last video you might be right...just because i can see the gas tank door popping open and closed it might be starting to do this when the front starts to come down...but i dont see any fix for it...? compression is as stiff as it can get....loostening it would only make it worse
car does rake a little...? could that be adding to the problem?

 

I think you're asking alot of a 26" tire, especially on a 16" rim.
It looks to me your weight transfer is pretty good on that 2nd run, just not enough tire to hold it I think.
Doesn't kp run a turbo set up? That's WAY different than a na or nitrous car as far as how it hits the tires.

 

no kp is procharged and trans brake

i know guys in the 1.36-1.38 60' with these i used to be 1.47-1.50
some said i need subframes
a few others say it too much for that tire
ellis above said i need rear shocks
and some1 said the fronts comming down unloading the rear tires

 

hehe, well all the answers are correct and upgrading parts will help it work better.
I didn't notice in your post before about the rake. I think at your power level any kind of a rake is a problem for 60' times but honestly-your car looks like it leaves well initially on the 2nd vid w/ 20psi and full loose up front-nice job.
I still think your tires are a problem and subframes IMO are a must.

 

Good weight transfer, but it's squating. Think of it not as squating, but the back tires not being leveraged enough to offset the weight transfer... Essentially, you're getting the weight moved back (which is good), but the car's throwing it out the window because it's not counteracting the weight transfer with anti-squat...

 

i watched fender gap frame by frame and as the car starts to load up you can see it gain about 1/8 of an inch of gap and keep it..it doesnt drop at all in the back....problem is i think it needs to gain about 1/2 or maybe an inch....that will drive the tires into the ground harder
not sure what i can do to help this...i wish i could get more lca angle...but i cant...in the lowest hole on my midwest chassis rear end its about level front to back...i raised the front of the car about 1/1 inch to help some but its BARELY angled up...
the tq arm is no in the highest hole...maybe i should move it back down and put the pinion angle at -3 to hit the tires a little harder...and hopefully it will stay hooked?

 

if yall think it will help i can put some stock rear springs back in it...or raise the back some to get that lca angle? or am i on the wrong track? my stockers are cut like 1 coil, isolater is still there...

 

Daniel. Your front end is in the air when it starts to let go. Even as the front end is on the way up the rear tires start to spin. The car is not pushing on the rear tires enough.

What TQ Arm did you go with? Is it shorter then stock?

I was having the same issues last time my car was running I just have not been back to the track to test the new stuff.

Here is what a 1.45 60ft looked like on my car

 

"in the lowest hole on my midwest chassis rear end its about level front to back..."

You should get a 2-4* up angle on those LCAs

 

Look at it in this vid... I see squatage. Either way. My car dead hooks at stock ride height in the back with LCA brackets in the lowest hole and the front is raked considerably. If I really get on the converter, it'd anti-squat 1+ inches when I'm staged, but if I flash it or get on the converter to 2200, the rear has absolutely zero movement. Hooks hard and goes straight without a peep. I agree that you need to get the rear up or the LCAs down at the axle to get the AS you need.

http://s21.photobucket.com/albums/b2...t=IMGP2057.flv

 

Just my 2 cents but that track does not seem prepped enough to hold the car.

 

I am still not seeing squat on his car?