MetallicaMatt

iTrader: (19)

Here's the deal, I just bought a battery relocation kit.

I'm going to try and fit it in the spare tire area

I do NOT want to drill into the car to put a cutoff switch


as of right now, it's mainly a street car, with a few trips to the track a year

but i'm registered for pinks this summer...so I don't know what tech is going to be like.


normally I wouldn't think twice about leaving it off


any suggestions? pics?

Duffster

iTrader: (103)

if nhra requires your car (based on times/speeds) to have a push/kill, then I'm sure Pinks will require it.

MetallicaMatt

iTrader: (19)

cutoff switch is require for all rear mount batteries on our cars I believe??

Jantzer98SS

iTrader: (54)

I want to see you mount it without drilling and also have the push/pull or on/off outside the car.

TwoFast4Lv

iTrader: (8)

Going to be hard unless you put it under the Licence plate

Duffster

iTrader: (103)

If you're willing to sacrifice a tail light, you can drill through there, but then again the center panel is just as easily replaceable. Maybe a combination of where you make half the hole in the top of the center panel and the other half of the hole in the bottom of the light. Once you're done at the track, remove the rod and you'll be less likely to notice it???

MetallicaMatt

iTrader: (19)

I just can't seem to find a good alternative

the key hole could be removed...but then I have no way to pop the trunk if the battery is disconnected

1QuickT-A

iTrader: (12)

This is what I want to know..

If you have a on/off battery disconnect switch HOW do you keep constant juice to the computer? If I am correct, every time you turn the power OFF you are killing the power to the pcm which means that you are reseting the pcm when you turn the power back ON.. And we all know how long it takes these computers to re-learn everything that has been custom programmed.. So when you go to the track your car really isn't running like it should if this assumption is correct.. Am I right??

Old Geezer

iTrader: (3)

the ecm retains memory w/ batt disconnected.

MetallicaMatt

iTrader: (19)

i want to call false on that statement?

battery looses power, the computer has to relearn all over again

another reason why i don't want the switch..someone bumps into it, and the computer has to start all over...

Old Geezer

iTrader: (3)

You said;"And we all know how long it takes these computers to re-learn everything that has been custom programmed.."
The programing is retained in flash memory, and is not lost when power is removed. The ecm will "relearn" idle info, after a short time, after restart.

I used the cutoff on my Buick, located behind the lic plate. The rod was removeable. When at the track, I removed the plate, put the handle on, and all was OK. W/ the handle removed, & the lic plate in place, the "OFF" decal was also hidden.

Duffster

iTrader: (103)

How about this: Spend about 25-40 bucks for 1 passenger taillight (maybe even get an LT1 light) and drill it. That way, you won't waste your regular light? OR Remove the passenger light when you're racing (leaving the drivers side in - gives you brake lights

Hope THAT helps.

D

MetallicaMatt

iTrader: (19)

I like the idea of putting everything behind the rear license plate...only use it when i'm at the track

pretty trick

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

Easy solution to your problems, put the switch in where the lic plate is, and drill a hole thru the plate right in the center. I've seen it done, looks mint that way.

As for the computer losing memory and having to relearn, easy way around that too. Tune the car in open loop, then it won't have to relearn 1/2 as much, tune the car in open loop and in speed density, and it won't have to relearn a damn thing.

My car has a shutoff drilled right next to the ws6 symbol the factory put on, doesn't look bad, and I can kill the power, and reconnect it, and start the car right up, no problems finds idle as fast now as it did with the battery sitting in the car hooked up all the time.

MetallicaMatt

iTrader: (19)

awesome, thanks bud.

I have a custom plate, so all my letters are together...I'm will to bet my small town cops will have a fit about the *** covering a little bit of the plate

I guess I could always take it out when I'm not at the track

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

That's what I mean, just drill the hole thru the plate, and remove the **** when you're not gonna go to the track. Then they won't bother you.


Personally, I'd just drill the hole and be done with it. It doesn't look that bad, and everyone will be like "ooh, race car"

RoDan

DO what I did, works like a charm!




the switch is rated weather resistant, and my car does not see much rain at all (if any) so this option seemed perfect. I just made the bracket that holds the rod out of some scrap aluminum I had laying around. I was going to use the existing drain plug hole thats in the floor in the same location, but it worked better for me to just drill a hole in the floor hat was the size of the switch neck itself. I used everything in the kit except for the switch bracket itself. For the "push off" sticker I just use painters tape and write "Push Off" on it and peel it off when i'm done!

RoDan

also, the rules on the switch are if the battery is relocated at all from the factory location, it is required, regardless of MPH or ET.

edit: I should also note that I dont foresee any rain problems though should I drive in the rain, It has seen some water since I installed it and there is no problem with the switch. If i had to drive in water a lot I might consider running an o-ring under that aluminum block so that it rides right on the switch itself. like I said, I shouldn't have any issues because it is rated as pretty much being water proof.

MetallicaMatt

iTrader: (19)

^^ that is slick!

got a pick from behind the car?

RoDan

yeah, let me look.

edit: here it is, I don't have one from directly behind but I can get one if needed.