FASTFATBOY

iTrader: (23)

I bought my straps from Lowes, Work very well.

You guys need to consider the load on the strap in an accident situation. Inertia causes the load to go WAY up, even in a panic stop situation.

SPEEDYws6

iTrader: (9)

I use 4 3k straps at all times. The fronts hook into the factory tie downs, and the rears loop over the axles and back to the trailer.

I want to come up with a way to tie the rear from the body, so that I can suck the body down and prevent any movement that might wear out my shocks or other expensive components back there. Anybody else done this?

minytrker

iTrader: (13)

That would be worse on the suspension having it tied down tight vs letting it bounce.

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

That's on my list of stuff to do. I want to put a set of hooks on the frame connectors, that would be good to use when on the dyno, trailer, etc.etc.

SPEEDYws6

iTrader: (9)

How do you figure?

96LT1355Z28

iTrader: (2)

^^I'm intrested to know this^^

I was told it was better to put wood blocks under the car at or just under ride height and tighten the straps so the car is on the blocks. This is supposed to make the car use the trailers suspension versus the trailers stiff suspension "beating up" the cars suspension. Please explain, if this is old info or incorrect I don't want to do it. It may save me a trip to home depot!

Also sometimes when I tighten down the straps after say 200-300 miles when I stop for gas some of the straps are loose. What causes this and what can I do to prevent it!

Sorry!

Thanks

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

I don't know about wooden blocks under the car, that one I have never heard of to be honest.

The straps loosen up because they stretch. Mine used to do that when they were new, but they don't anymore, or maybe I just crank them tighter now.

I have about 2 to 3 miles before I can get on the highway, and the roads are pretty rough around me. I always stop and check the car before getting on the highway to make sure everything is tight.



Straps are also a wear item, so make sure they're in good shape! I just replaced all mine for the same of replacing them, they were in decent shape but I didn't want to take a chance. Now I have a couple spares, should the need ever arise

Old Geezer

iTrader: (3)

done w/ unsuspended cars, such as rails, altereds.
There is a product that is an inflatable bladder, that is used in such applications.
W/ unsuspended cars, the frame flex is actually the "suspension". Bouncing them fatigues the rail materials, and stresses the weld joints.
Over time, there have been many wrecks, due to frame breakage.
If you have an open trlr, and decide to use the blocks...BE SURE you have the blocks secured!! "Wood" not be good to find 1 sticking in someone's windshield!!

My suggestion: Tie down using the frame, and load the suspension that way.
Even hi quality straps will stretch during the first few applications. I use ONLY 3" 6000# straps, and as mentioned, CHECK them frequently.

96LT1355Z28

iTrader: (2)

Ok, my straps are them streching. I haven't tried the block thing I just read abut it in a book and it sounded right. They must have been talking about non suspended cars. I have an open trailer so I think I'll just keep using the straps so I don't but someone a windshield or worse!

Thanks for the info

minytrker

iTrader: (13)

Just starpping the car down really tight compressing the suspension is hard on it. It will shorten the life of the shocks. The proper way IMO is to set the blocks under the car and strap the car down against the blocks. I know a car and a bike are differnt but I used to strap them down really tight compressing the forks down on long trips, went through several forks seals. Stop compressing the forks down so tight and no more blown seals. A QA1 isnt that much differnt than a fork.
I dont use blocks under the car except on my dragster. On my camaro I use 4 straps. I x the front and the back and never have a problem.

ZHAWK154

iTrader: (1)

i always strap the car down from a frame point. the shock bouncing the whole trip to and from the track are worse for them than compressing them a bit. we spend all this time and money on suspension components and tuning the chassis and then let the car bounce the whole way to and from the track.

car_fixer

I was adding a back brace recently, so i added tie down hooks also to the rear, and somehow the angles worked out perfect so the straps are straight out from the tabs, in the front i use the factory tie down points

RAGENZ28

iTrader: (5)

That was sure nice of that blind man to weld that for you

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

That looks pretty good, but god man, the undercarriage on that car has got to be the dirtiest 4th gen car I have ever seen!

car_fixer

third gen, and its undercoated so it looks like crap lol

TwoFast4Lv

iTrader: (8)

I am hooking to the the rear LCa relocaters in an "X" and in the front I left the Sway bar mounts on the frame and hook on them in an "X".

I wreck the truck and trailer last year and the car straped to the trailer was SAFE and only moved 4 inches to one side due to one of the straps breaking NO Damage due to the wreck.

it works